Wisconsin Robin Wi-185

S

slomo

Lawn Pro
My WR burns oil if I run it at max revs. While running, I removed the oil dipstick and it puffed up from crankcase pressure. Removed the stick and it blew air and oil up out of the tube. This is an L head style engine. My question is are my rings not sealing like normal? The vent to carb tube had a lower level of air going to the carb to reburn. Must be some baffeling inside to slow the air velocity down before it hits the carb. It is doing just like a Briggs Intek engine with the classic blown head gasket. What do you guys think I need to do? If I run it at a medium rev, it doesn't burn as much oil. I top if off at the full mark. I get one mow out of it on max revs. Next mow I need to add just a bit of oil to bring it back to full. It drops to mid normal oil level range every time. What do you guys think?

slomo
 
Compression was a thought. From the rope it feels ok. Time to put a gauge on it. My thought was sticking rings. Got this Snapper from a co-worker. No telling how long the mower was sitting in his shed. I sprayed WD-40 into the cylinder. Hoping the solvent would loosen the rings over night. That seemed to slow the oil burn down a little I think. I would love to open her up but no gaskets are available anymore. Unless you guys know where some are to be had?

slomo
 
Compression cold was 60psi. Removed the head. Did a carbon combustion chamber removal. Bore is perfect still. Zero scratches of any kind. Noticed the piston rings push a small amount of oil toward the head when you rotate by hand. Rotating by hand, there is no sound of the rings doing their job. No slight dragging sound and very easy to rotate with one finger. Looks like rings are dead. Probably have to remove the piston to unstick the rings if they are still good. Valve guides had some slop. Could use some new ones after 4 decades of service. Probably no sense squirting oil into the chamber to improve compression. Rings seem to have plenty of oil in a bad way. Would like to run some Rislone and see if the rings would loosen up. Nothing to lose now I guess.

slomo
 
Since you have the head off. Turn engine with. Cylinder up and piston down in bore and pour a couple ounces of Seafoam in and let it set a day. Rotate the engine a couple times and repeat the seafoam treatment. Change the oil put head back on and see how it runs and check oil consumption. Adding a few ounces of seafoam to the oil will clean the crankcase.
 
Hammermechanicman said:
Since you have the head off. Turn engine with. Cylinder up and piston down in bore and pour a couple ounces of Seafoam in and let it set a day. Rotate the engine a couple times and repeat the seafoam treatment. Change the oil put head back on and see how it runs and check oil consumption. Adding a few ounces of seafoam to the oil will clean the crankcase.
Click to expand...
I did a similar thing last night with WD-40. WD is a pretty good solvent. Need to dump the oil and fuel. Put the cylinder up vertical and douse with WD-40. Surely with leaking rings, any solvent will cover the rings and hopefully loosen them up. Right now there is no audible ring drag in the bore. No friction either as stated before.

slomo
 
Hammermechanicman said:
Since you have the head off. Turn engine with. Cylinder up and piston down in bore and pour a couple ounces of Seafoam in and let it set a day. Rotate the engine a couple times and repeat the seafoam treatment. Change the oil put head back on and see how it runs and check oil consumption. Adding a few ounces of seafoam to the oil will clean the crankcase.
Click to expand...
I would like to crack it open and remove the rings. Don't have any replacement gaskets. My luck it would leak oil all over if I did that.

I would think this has a cast iron liner in it. I didn't notice one. I will look again, still cleaning carbon and such. Anyone know if these Japanese engines have a cast iron bore?

slomo
 
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