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Wildcat Drive Belt Transmission Belt Install

#1

O

ottoslanding

:newhere:

Hello to all. Just joined the forum and had a question I couldn't seem to find in the search.

:confused:

I purchased my 2010 Wildcat STWC-26KA-LC in oct 2012 so have had it just under a year. It had 278 hours when I bought it and it now has 294 hours. I'm a homeowner and it just mows my lawn. I changed all the fluids and filters and did all the greasing and sharpened the blades over the winter and it runs great and cuts great.

:thumbsup:

Yesterday it just stopped moving. Running fine and blades working but the drive was dead. Transmission belt broke.

:thumbdown:

A new belt is on order via Ebay ( Stens $22.47) but I have been trying to find some tips/pointers on replacing the belt.


Anyone have any tips? I'm guessing one of the pulleys is a tensioner and in it lies the key.

I do have two auto floor jacks and chocks if needed.

Also, what can the old belt tell me? It looks pretty worn--could it be original(294 hours)? Burnishing on the cog side. The belt has several cracks across the belt that reach over halfway across the belt and it was clearly due to fail. The cracks ALL start on the same side of the belt

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

:cool2:


Also, is there a sticky notes page of threads with commonly asked maintenance issues?


Thanks again!

:wink:


#2

M

Mad Mackie

You can get operators and parts manuals on the Scag website, you will need the model and serial numbers from your machine to get the correct manuals.
I would be concerned as to why the pump drive belt failed. Pump drive belt recommended replacement is 400 hours.
I use a long 1/2" drive extension and breaker bar to move the tensioners as they have a square slot in them for this purpose. Look over the parts manual for the deck drive belt and the pump drive belt. You will need to relieve the deck drive belt tension and remove it from the clutch pulley as the pump drive belt is installed above it. Check all the pulleys both deck drive and pump drive while you have the belts loose.
Having another person moving the tension lever tool makes belt installation much easier.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


#3

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
You can get operators and parts manuals on the Scag website, you will need the model and serial numbers from your machine to get the correct manuals.
I would be concerned as to why the pump drive belt failed. Pump drive belt recommended replacement is 400 hours.
I use a long 1/2" drive extension and breaker bar to move the tensioners as they have a square slot in them for this purpose. Look over the parts manual for the deck drive belt and the pump drive belt. You will need to relieve the deck drive belt tension and remove it from the clutch pulley as the pump drive belt is installed above it. Check all the pulleys both deck drive and pump drive while you have the belts loose.
Having another person moving the tension lever tool makes belt installation much easier.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:

Thanks for the info. I spent some time with the manual and the parts schematic and I see the issue with having to remove the deck drive belt from the engine pulley in order to get the transmission pulley installed above it. I also found the breaker slots for the tensioner assemblies. Good point on the helper. Not sure how else to do it with just one set of hands. Is it possible?

I agree with you on wondering why the belt failed. This belt is talking to me and trying to tell me what the problem is. :confused2:

The belt has splits all along it's length. When I stretch the broken belt out it has a sideway curve in it and there are 20 splits on the outside of the curve. One small split on the inside of the curve. Not tracking true and straight on the pulleys?

I just eyeballed the 5 pulleys(engine, 2 idlers, 2 hydraulic pumps) and was looking at the clean wear areas on the idler pulleys. The idler pulley surface is more than twice as wide as the belt and the clean/wear area on the two idler pulleys don't match up. The flat side of the belt rides on the idler pulleys and the wear area is high on one pulley and low on the other. Installation error or would the belt naturally track to true? The engine and pump pulleys eyeball to be even. The idler pulleys look ok other than the wear pattern not being aligned.

Any ideas on whether this is normal and if not, how to correct it? Proper install and then checking with the engine running after install?

Btw, I was blessed when this thing stopped driving as it happened about 20 feet from my garage. Opened the pump valves and free wheeled it into the garage. 10 lb-ft for securing the dump valves doesn't seem like much but that is what the manual calls for. Also, dealing with these belts seems to be easier with the deck height pin removed and the deck lowered to it's lowest position.

:banana:


#4

M

Mad Mackie

I use a 12" long 1/2" drive extension with a breaker bar. I have been able to do this by myself one time and needed assistance after I repowered my Scag Tiger Cub which is similar to your Wildcat.
Spin the pulleys by hand to check for roughness and wobble. At 400 hundred hours on my machine I replaced the smaller pulley, the one on the tensioner, as it was noisy and wobbled too much when I checked it. I would also check the tensioner for up and down movement. There are two bearings in the pivot point of the tensioner and excessive up and down movement can cause belt problems. A weak tensioner spring will let the belt whip and slip while the machine is moving. Check all V pulleys to include the clutch for damage as a small gouge that goes into the V belt as it travels over the pulley will cause premature V belt failure. This can also happen with the flat pulleys as well if the guide edge has damage. It is normal to see the flat pulleys have different wear pattern areas as long as the patterns are not extremely offset from each other. Check the flat pulley mount bolts for tightness, doing this may need another person to assist.
I replaced the mount bolt in the larger diameter flat pulley with a slightly longer one. I noticed that the nut didn't have a flat washer under it and the nut showed signs of movement. The longer bolt allowed me to install a thick flat washer under the nut and gave the nut more thread engagement passed the nut. The bigger diameter flat pulley is there to increase the belt wrap around the right side pump pulley and to reduce belt whip as this is the pulling side of the belt travel by the engine.
Always check belts before during and after a test run.
When dropping the deck for belt maintenance, move the adjustment pin to the lowest setting and drop the deck to it. With the pin removed, the deck can drop down too much and on some machines damage the height adjustment mechanism.
On another note, make sure to keep the radiator clean on your LC engine.
Also, on the hydraulic system, when the filter is removed, the reservoir will also drain out thru the filter adapter so be ready for 3 quarts of oil along with the filter.
Mad Mackie in CT


#5

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
I use a 12" long 1/2" drive extension with a breaker bar. I have been able to do this by myself one time and needed assistance after I repowered my Scag Tiger Cub which is similar to your Wildcat.
Spin the pulleys by hand to check for roughness and wobble. At 400 hundred hours on my machine I replaced the smaller pulley, the one on the tensioner, as it was noisy and wobbled too much when I checked it. I would also check the tensioner for up and down movement. There are two bearings in the pivot point of the tensioner and excessive up and down movement can cause belt problems. A weak tensioner spring will let the belt whip and slip while the machine is moving. Check all V pulleys to include the clutch for damage as a small gouge that goes into the V belt as it travels over the pulley will cause premature V belt failure. This can also happen with the flat pulleys as well if the guide edge has damage. It is normal to see the flat pulleys have different wear pattern areas as long as the patterns are not extremely offset from each other. Check the flat pulley mount bolts for tightness, doing this may need another person to assist.
I replaced the mount bolt in the larger diameter flat pulley with a slightly longer one. I noticed that the nut didn't have a flat washer under it and the nut showed signs of movement. The longer bolt allowed me to install a thick flat washer under the nut and gave the nut more thread engagement passed the nut. The bigger diameter flat pulley is there to increase the belt wrap around the right side pump pulley and to reduce belt whip as this is the pulling side of the belt travel by the engine.
Always check belts before during and after a test run.
When dropping the deck for belt maintenance, move the adjustment pin to the lowest setting and drop the deck to it. With the pin removed, the deck can drop down too much and on some machines damage the height adjustment mechanism.
On another note, make sure to keep the radiator clean on your LC engine.
Also, on the hydraulic system, when the filter is removed, the reservoir will also drain out thru the filter adapter so be ready for 3 quarts of oil along with the filter.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...



I don't feel any nicks in any of the pulleys. The smaller idler pulley on the tensioner has a small bit of wobble. My best guess is between 1/16" and 1/32" of wobble and the play is in the bearing that the pulley rides on. The tensioner arm seems pretty solid. The nut on the pulley is tight. The big idler pulley has no wobble.

The wear pattern on my idlers is the small tensioner one is on the bottom of the pulley and the larger idler has the wear on the top of the pulley. The engine and pump pulleys seem to line up closer to the top of the idler pulleys so that small tensioner pulley may be the issue. Are these pulley parts available somewhere besides the dealer?

I put the deck on the lowest setting.

We had more rain than usual this summer so the july and aug mowing has been unusual. It appears I will probably put less than 25 hours a year on this machine. I went through the whole thing last winter for the initial so I had a good starting point and looks like I'll just do it once a year in the winter season. All the fluids and all the grease.

When finished mowing I use the leaf blower on the entire machine including the shroud over the radiator. Should I being doing something else to keep the radiator clean?

Thanks for all the help.

:smile:


#6

M

Mad Mackie

The smaller flat pulley turns twice as fast as the larger one. I suggest that you remove the spring from the tensioner and check it for up and down movement. I use an old automotive drum brake tool to do this, you may not have this tool. As for aftermarket pulleys, you may find them in the correct size but you will need to measure yours. There are bushings installed into the bearings of these pulleys that may not be available in aftermarket pulleys. You can remove these bushings and reinstall them into an aftermarket pulley providing the bearing ID is the same. Removing and reinstalling these bushings incorrectly can damage the ball bearing particularly if they are a tight fit. The Scag pulley will have these bushings already installed. I may still have the old pulley that I replaced, I'll go and look for it. Another problem with aftermarket pulleys is the quality of the installed bearing, lots of poor quality Chinese, Russian, and others found in some pulleys.
I also use my back pack blower to clean my machines after use. The LC Kawi engines have a higher than normal repair rate due to overheating. All the cooling air gets drawn into the top of the engine thru the radiator and then around the engine itself and then overboard. This air contains a lot of small dirt particles that can collect in the radiator fins and in the fan on the top of the flywheel. when I have an LC engine come in for service I blow thru the radiator with HP air to clean up this area and make sure it is clean. LC engines have more steps in the engine cooling process than air cooled engines. The incoming cool air must flow sufficiently thru the radiator to remove excess heat from the coolant which must be circulated by a pump both thru the radiator and the engine. Because these engines are made of aluminum, a special anti-freeze and demineralized water must be used in the cooling system. Liquid coolant boils at a higher temperature when under pressure and when mixed with the correct anti-freeze/water ratio. The system pressure cap is another item of importance in an LC engine. The up side of an LC engine is that the operating temperature is more stable than an air cooled engine and should last longer.
Mad Mackie in CT


#7

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
The smaller flat pulley turns twice as fast as the larger one. I suggest that you remove the spring from the tensioner and check it for up and down movement. I use an old automotive drum brake tool to do this, you may not have this tool. As for aftermarket pulleys, you may find them in the correct size but you will need to measure yours. There are bushings installed into the bearings of these pulleys that may not be available in aftermarket pulleys. You can remove these bushings and reinstall them into an aftermarket pulley providing the bearing ID is the same. Removing and reinstalling these bushings incorrectly can damage the ball bearing particularly if they are a tight fit. The Scag pulley will have these bushings already installed. I may still have the old pulley that I replaced, I'll go and look for it. Another problem with aftermarket pulleys is the quality of the installed bearing, lots of poor quality Chinese, Russian, and others found in some pulleys.
I also use my back pack blower to clean my machines after use. The LC Kawi engines have a higher than normal repair rate due to overheating. All the cooling air gets drawn into the top of the engine thru the radiator and then around the engine itself and then overboard. This air contains a lot of small dirt particles that can collect in the radiator fins and in the fan on the top of the flywheel. when I have an LC engine come in for service I blow thru the radiator with HP air to clean up this area and make sure it is clean. LC engines have more steps in the engine cooling process than air cooled engines. The incoming cool air must flow sufficiently thru the radiator to remove excess heat from the coolant which must be circulated by a pump both thru the radiator and the engine. Because these engines are made of aluminum, a special anti-freeze and demineralized water must be used in the cooling system. Liquid coolant boils at a higher temperature when under pressure and when mixed with the correct anti-freeze/water ratio. The system pressure cap is another item of importance in an LC engine. The up side of an LC engine is that the operating temperature is more stable than an air cooled engine and should last longer.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...






Good idea about pulling the spring on the tensioner and then checking for play in the tensioner arm. By drum brake tool are you talking about the tool used to adjust the star for the pad pressure?

I'm hoping I can get the pulley off with no major problems. Just loosen the hex bolt on the bottom of the pulley and it drops off? Maybe some PB Blaster first?

I ordered a new OEM tensioner pulley from ebay and it is on the way along with the stens belt.

I've been trying to come up with a way to do a belt change by myself. I'm thinking securing the belt in place with painters tape and then appltying the tensioner pulley to the belt. I'll let ya know if I manage to come up with anything that works safely.

Good info on the cooling system. I will need to go back in the manual and confirm but I am nearly positive it calls for old fashion green coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water. I could not figure out via the manual how to flush and fill the coolant system so spent some time trying to find the water jacket and was able to locate a bolt near the bottom of the engine that I was pretty sure had to be in the water jacket. Voila! It drained perfectly.

I need to inspect closer and probably clean underneath the radiator. I've never checked that area.

Thanks again for all the help!

:wink:


#8

M

Mad Mackie

Just looked at my spare drive belt pulleys and they both have Chinese bearings!!!!:mad: They are Scag dealer parts.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


#9

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
Just looked at my spare drive belt pulleys and they both have Chinese bearings!!!!:mad: They are Scag dealer parts.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

How can you tell the bearings are chinese?

:confused:


My OEM pulley is supposed to be delivered today and I'll check mine.

:cool2:


#10

Carscw

Carscw

ottoslanding said:
How can you tell the bearings are chinese?

:confused:

My OEM pulley is supposed to be delivered today and I'll check mine.

:cool2:
Click to expand...

They say china on them

(( cowboy up and get over it ))


#11

O

ottoslanding

Carscw said:
They say china on them

(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Click to expand...


The pulley arrived and it had the bearings in so I don't know what they say on them. I saw no markings on the pulley. It looks exactly like the one that came off the mower and I am guessing the pulley was put on in the factory but I do not know that to be fact.

I pulled off the tensioner spring with my hand and checked the tensioner arm for play and I can feel no play in the assembly.

For removing the pulley I used a small cordless impact wrench on the bottom hex bolt while I held the locknut on the top of the tensioner arm with a ratchet and socket. This is all being done with the rear end in the air and on jack stands, the front wheels chocked and the left wheel removed.

When replacing the pulley I was able to star the bolt through the tensioner arm from below and then start the locknut on the top with my other hand. With the pulley assembly now suspended, I simply reversed the removal procedure. I did use some loctite 242(blue medium strength) on the pulley bolt threads to help the locknut.

The old pulley has some slight play in the bearing hub and the new pulley has no play.

The whole process took less than 30 minutes.

I did a follow up on the coolant. Here is what the Kawasaki engine owners manual states:

---------------------------------

Recommended Coolant Solution

Water 50% : Antifreeze 50% (1:1)

Recommended Antifreeze:

Permanent type antifreeze (ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for cast iron engines and aluminum radiators.)

----------------------------------


I am nearly positive when I asked my scag dealer they recommended the old school green type antifreeze

I did take off the radiator screen and blow that off with compressed air and likewise with the radiator. Also pulled the two air filters and housing and blew it out.

Now just waiting for my belt as I watch my grass grow.

:tongue:


#12

O

ottoslanding

Hold the phone!!

:mur:


As I am sitting here watching my grass grow and waiting for my belt, I took a closer look at the parts schematic for the drive system components. I noticed that the locknut was on the top of the tensioner arm as opposed to on the bottom of the pulley. Probably not a biggie but then I noticed something else.

:banana:


The side of the pulley bearing that sticks out an inch or so is not visible on the top of the pulley in the diagram so I am guessing it is supposed to be pointed down. Mine was mounted the other way and I don't think the spacer that was there is correct. It is too short when I mount the pulley as I see it in the picture and the pulley binds. My spacer is too short and to compensate someone mounted the pulley upside down. So now I had this pulley bearing protrusion balancing on the too short pacer.

Anyone have the dimensions of the correct pulley spacer? Scag part number 43286.

Can someone confirm that the pulley is supposed to have the part of the bearing which sticks out facing down?

:confused3:

The way the old pulley was mounted with the protruding side facing up and balancing on the spacer could explain the belt not running true and probably had a lot of wobble.

I'm guessing.

:confused2:


#13

Carscw

Carscw

ottoslanding said:
Hold the phone!!

:mur:

As I am sitting here watching my grass grow and waiting for my belt, I took a closer look at the parts schematic for the drive system components. I noticed that the locknut was on the top of the tensioner arm as opposed to on the bottom of the pulley. Probably not a biggie but then I noticed something else.

:banana:

The side of the pulley bearing that sticks out an inch or so is not visible on the top of the pulley in the diagram so I am guessing it is supposed to be pointed down. Mine was mounted the other way and I don't think the spacer that was there is correct. It is too short when I mount the pulley as I see it in the picture and the pulley binds. My spacer is too short and to compensate someone mounted the pulley upside down. So now I had this pulley bearing protrusion balancing on the too short pacer.

Anyone have the dimensions of the correct pulley spacer? Scag part number 43286.

Can someone confirm that the pulley is supposed to have the part of the bearing which sticks out facing down?

:confused3:

The way the old pulley was mounted with the protruding side facing up and balancing on the spacer could explain the belt not running true and probably had a lot of wobble.

I'm guessing.

:confused2:
Click to expand...

That part that sticks out from the bearing is called a bearing bushing and is not part of the bearing but is inserted into the center of the bearing. Am not 100% sure on your model but everyone I have ever seen has been down

(( cowboy up and get over it ))


#14

O

ottoslanding

Carscw said:
That part that sticks out from the bearing is called a bearing bushing and is not part of the bearing but is inserted into the center of the bearing. Am not 100% sure on your model but everyone I have ever seen has been down

(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Click to expand...

Thanks!! :thumbsup:

The spacer which is there measures 11/16" long and 1" wide :banned:



When I look at the parts diagram I see a spacer that is longer than it is wide.

:drool:

I ordered one through my scag dealer for $1.86. Online was the same but add 8 to 15 bucks for shipping.


Back to watching my grass grow while I wait for the belt and the spacer


:banana:


#15

M

Mad Mackie

Hi ottoslanding,
Your Wildcat has basically the same drive train as my Tiger Cub. I think that the small pulley was not installed correctly and caused the drive belt failure. In the pics attached is the large diameter pulley showing the bushing that is pressed into the pulley bearing in the up position and the same position for the small pulley. The other pic is the actual bushing from the small pulley that I replaced in my machine.
When installing the small pulley, it goes as follows, bolt from the top, thru the tensioner, the spacer, P/N 43286, goes up onto the bolt, the small pulley with the bushing up as in the pics, so the spacer and the pulley bushing are next to each other, the flat washer and then the locknut.
Mad Mackie in CT

Attachments







#16

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
Hi ottoslanding,
Your Wildcat has basically the same drive train as my Tiger Cub. I think that the small pulley was not installed correctly and caused the drive belt failure. In the pics attached is the large diameter pulley showing the bushing that is pressed into the pulley bearing in the up position and the same position for the small pulley. The other pic is the actual bushing from the small pulley that I replaced in my machine.
When installing the small pulley, it goes as follows, bolt from the top, thru the tensioner, the spacer, P/N 43286, goes up onto the bolt, the small pulley with the bushing up as in the pics, so the spacer and the pulley bushing are next to each other, the flat washer and then the locknut.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...


That is different than I was thinking. I was thinking the bushing would be on the bottom of the pulley with the washer and locknut. The spacer on the top side of the pulley between the pulley and the tensioner arm.

The spacer that was on my machine was wider than it was long. The picture in the parts schematic looks like the spacer is longer than it is wide. I also do not see the bushing on the top of the pulley in the parts schematic. The parts schematic does not show the bottom of the pulley and I was assuming the bushing was on the bottom.

My machine when I disassembled it had the lock nut on top of the tensioner arm, then the arm, then the spacer, then the bushing on top of the pulley, then the pulley, and then the washer and then the hex head of the bolt.

It seems to me that if I put the bushing upward and next to the spacer that it could create wobble.



:confused2:


#17

M

Mad Mackie

ottoslanding,
Scag would not have installed a shouldered standoff bushing into the pulley bearing if it was not needed. Almost all pulleys have to be offset to prevent them from contacting the bracket or support to which they are installed.
The parts schematic in the manual is for reference only, the parts listing has the reference and the actual part number for the reference number. The spacer, P/N 43286 is in fact shorter in length than it's diameter. This spacer and the offset shoulder of the pulley bushing makeup the correct distance from the tensioner arm for the drive belt on your Wildcat. The bolt comes down from the top, thru the tensioner, next is the spacer, P/N 43286, then the pulley with the shoulder in the up position. The flat washer and locknut are then installed. If installed correctly, there will be no wobble in the pulley as mounted onto the tensioner arm. The tensioner arm does move and with the tension spring installed, it will push the pulley against the flat side of the drive belt. This system keeps the correct tension on the belt and increases the amount of belt wrap around the left hand pump pulley. The large diameter pulley is fixed to the frame of the machine and is there to increase the belt wrap around the right hand pump pulley and reduce belt whipping during operation.
Mad Mackie in CT


#18

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
ottoslanding,
Scag would not have installed a shouldered standoff bushing into the pulley bearing if it was not needed. Almost all pulleys have to be offset to prevent them from contacting the bracket or support to which they are installed.
The parts schematic in the manual is for reference only, the parts listing has the reference and the actual part number for the reference number. The spacer, P/N 43286 is in fact shorter in length than it's diameter. This spacer and the offset shoulder of the pulley bushing makeup the correct distance from the tensioner arm for the drive belt on your Wildcat. The bolt comes down from the top, thru the tensioner, next is the spacer, P/N 43286, then the pulley with the shoulder in the up position. The flat washer and locknut are then installed. If installed correctly, there will be no wobble in the pulley as mounted onto the tensioner arm. The tensioner arm does move and with the tension spring installed, it will push the pulley against the flat side of the drive belt. This system keeps the correct tension on the belt and increases the amount of belt wrap around the left hand pump pulley. The large diameter pulley is fixed to the frame of the machine and is there to increase the belt wrap around the right hand pump pulley and reduce belt whipping during operation.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...


:thumbsup:

ok. It seemed like having that bushing on top against the spacer would lend itself to wobble. So in the end, the pulley was installed correctly except that the locknut was on top of the tensioner bracket and the hex head of the bolt was on the bottom of the pulley with the washer. Perhaps having the hex head on the bottom and the locknut on top could contribute to the belt problem?

When I installed the new pulley that way it was lined up with the large pulley but I just thought it would wobble and figured that it was like that due to a spacer that was too short.

Thanks!!

:cool2:


#19

O

ottoslanding

I have the pulley on and I am looking at the bracket that the spring attaches to. It is #30 on the diagram and it has two holes in it. The forward end of my tensioner spring is hooked to a bolt in the aft hole of this bracket. With no belt on this tensioner pulley the spring is loose. I can grab it with two fingers and remove it. I do not have to stretch the spring to remove it.

Here is the question.

On my parts diagram the forward hole in bracket #30 there is supposed to be a bolt #27. I just have an empty hole in that position with no bolt. The aft hole is bolt #23 in bracket #30 and that is where the bolt is installed and the forward end of the tensioner spring is attached. The other end of the tensioner spring attached to the bolt #27 on the tensioner arm.

Is it possible that the forward end of my tensioner spring is attached to a bolt that it too far aft? Wrongly in the aft hole of bracket #30? Therefore not enough tension on the arm and perhaps causing the twisting belt/wandering belt problem?

:banana:


#20

M

Mad Mackie

In a while I'm going to get my machine out of the trailer to do a small part of my lawn that has a bunch of leaves. I'll take a pic of the drive belt area under the seat and post it here. You Wildcat is the same basic machine as my Tiger Cub but with several upgrades, seat, levers, fuel tanks, different engine.
Mad Mackie in CT


#21

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
In a while I'm going to get my machine out of the trailer to do a small part of my lawn that has a bunch of leaves. I'll take a pic of the drive belt area under the seat and post it here. You Wildcat is the same basic machine as my Tiger Cub but with several upgrades, seat, levers, fuel tanks, different engine.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...

Pics of mine. Note spring attached to rear of bracket.

Attachments











#22

M

Mad Mackie

Hi ottoslanding,
Here are the pics on mine.
Looks the same as yours. There is the next hole to move the bolt into which will tighten the spring more. Notice the spacer on the spring tension bolt. Yours has it also, but this spaced doesn't show up in the parts manual.
In pic 003, notice the flat washer under the nut for the large pulley. I put a slightly longer bolt and a flat washer under the nut as it was moving causing some wobble.
I installed a ground cable on the spring mount aft hole.
Mad Mackie in CT

Attachments











#23

M

Mad Mackie

Aftermarket belt too long???
Mad Mackie in CT


#24

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
Aftermarket belt too long???
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...



I don't know. Should know by the end of this next week. The dimensions on the sales site matched the length of my old belt.

Maybe my drive belt will only last 250 hours?

Where does the 400 hour number come from?

:confused2:


:licking:


:cool2:


#25

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
Hi ottoslanding,

I installed a ground cable on the spring mount aft hole.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...


What is the ground cable for?

:confused3:


#26

M

Mad Mackie

Hi ottoslanding,
The battery ground cable is connected to one of the engine mount bolts and sometimes that is not a great grounding point, so I add another cable to ground the battery to the machine frame at some point. I've done this on lots of machines over the years.
I have read in Scag literature somewhere that the pump drive belt has a recommended replacement interval of 400 hours, but I don't remember where I read this.
I was under the impression that you had the new drive belt as you were discussing the tensioner spring and positions.
Mad Mackie in CT


#27

O

ottoslanding

Mad Mackie said:
Hi ottoslanding,
The battery ground cable is connected to one of the engine mount bolts and sometimes that is not a great grounding point, so I add another cable to ground the battery to the machine frame at some point. I've done this on lots of machines over the years.
I have read in Scag literature somewhere that the pump drive belt has a recommended replacement interval of 400 hours, but I don't remember where I read this.
I was under the impression that you had the new drive belt as you were discussing the tensioner spring and positions.
Mad Mackie in CT
Click to expand...


:thumbsup:


Belt is in the usps system somewhere between here and NY. I've just been trying to find anything that would make that belt wear twisted like it did.

Maybe I'll know more when I get the belt on and can run the machine to see how the belt tracks. May have to adjust the tensioner by changing that spring hook up location and moving the bolt forward.

:confused3:


#28

O

ottoslanding

ottoslanding said:
:thumbsup:


Belt is in the usps system somewhere between here and NY. I've just been trying to find anything that would make that belt wear twisted like it did.

Maybe I'll know more when I get the belt on and can run the machine to see how the belt tracks. May have to adjust the tensioner by changing that spring hook up location and moving the bolt forward.

:confused3:
Click to expand...




:dance1:

:banana:

:thumbsup:


Belt arrived and I put it on by myself. Had to detension the belt for the cutters and remove it from the engine pulley so I could get the drive belt above it. With only one set of hands I used a few strips blue painters tape on each to hold the belts on the main pulleys. When I needed to make the final belt routing around the tensioner pulley, I used the 1/2" breaker bar to move the tensioner arm and then wedged the end of a wood 2 x 4 in the tensioner arm. Routed the belt, secured it with a strip of tape, and removed the 2 x 4 and released the tensioner and the belt was secured. Removed all the tape. Started things up and the belt seemed to be tracking fine.

Mowed the yard today and everything seemed to work fine. Will be interesting to see if the belt wears prematurely but right now it seems fine.

Thanks for all the help!!

:cool2:


#29

M

Mad Mackie

Hi ottoslanding,
That is good!!
Inspect it periodically. As for the tension, if the new drive belt is the correct dimension, there should be no problem.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


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