What Is the Best Blade Setting for a Healthy Lawn?

[Skippydiesel]

Its simple -

• For most plants (not all) the relationships between the aerial (above ground) foliage, is directly proportional to the subterranean (roots).
• Scalp (cut your foliage down to near dirt) & you reduce the root system volume & depth of (soil) penetration.
• Given your clear understanding of plant physiology, you probably unaware that the roots deliver water & nutrients to the aerial (above ground bit that you can see ie lawn).
• Reduce the root system, when there is plenty of soil moisture and nutrients (fertilizer) you will probably get away with it. Your sward will be stressed but will live.
• Do the same in dry times and you wont be so lucky.
• Also - the leaf (blade of grass) is where the plant generates the energy to live - no leaf, no plant.
• Humans, in their drive for their idea of aesthetic perfection (the fashionable look) all to often ignore the needs of the plant.
• 

 

[Skippydiesel]

Could be, Skippy. But I typically buy equipment for quality and not economy, or comfort. I have found, however, that when I buy quality, comfort usually comes with it. I guess I just never paid attention to the max cutting height on a mower when I was looking to buy, probably because I've never in my 72 years heard 4" as a recommended height. Pastures yes, lawns no.

Dont know what ride on mowers you have - I have no less than 4 (all slasher/horizontal blades type ie not drum). Everyone of which has a deck that will lift above 4 in. They need to do this when being driven from place to place. They can still cut in the max up /transport position. I do have two push mowers - max lift is about 4"

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Its simple -

• For most plants (not all) the relationships between the aerial (above ground) foliage, is directly proportional to the subterranean (roots).
• Scalp (cut your foliage down to near dirt) & you reduce the root system volume & depth of (soil) penetration.
• Given your clear understanding of plant physiology, you probably unaware that the roots deliver water & nutrients to the aerial (above ground bit that you can see ie lawn).
• Reduce the root system, when there is plenty of soil moisture and nutrients (fertilizer) you will probably get away with it. Your sward will be stressed but will live.
• Do the same in dry times and you wont be so lucky.
• Also - the leaf (blade of grass) is where the plant generates the energy to live - no leaf, no plant.
• Humans, in their drive for their idea of aesthetic perfection (the fashionable look) all to often ignore the needs of the plant.
• 

As previously stated, I have tried to educate people over the years of the benefits of cutting grass higher “than you may think you need to or like to”, and for the most part it falls on deaf ears. When you drive by a lawn and think it looks nice long term, it is because the owner is most likely cutting the grass at the appropriate height.

 

[GearHead36]

I've never in my 72 years heard 4" as a recommended height. Pastures yes, lawns no.

Last year, I bought a manual reel mower to mow a small area in my back yard. I wanted it short and thick. After a month of mowing at 2", I wasn't getting the results I wanted. So I researched my grass. Turns out, that grass is St Augustine, which likes to be mowed at 4". I discontinued my reel mower experiment. Fescue is not the only grass that likes to be mowed high. That area I mowed short recovered after about a month.