Westwood T1200

[bertsmobile1]

use a pick or small drill bit to dig the grot out from the end of the key way in the axle
Then tap the key with a punch see if you can shift it about 1/2" to 1/4"
This will then allow a pathway for whatever goo you want to use to break the rust bond

 

[clicon357]

I win!

Finally got the pullies off both gearboxes!

Heat with MAPP gas, rub a candle over the shaft and the wax gets sucked in. Beat it with a bfo knocking stick and punch. Repeat.

Pretty sure having it all on the sturdier trestles / angle iron helped. Exactly as the lad showed on YouTube tbh.

The orange, better looking pulley took two evenings. The rusty as Hell pulley on the new gearbox about 2 minutes!





Pullies degreased and in the citric acid bath to derust now.

Still got to do the wheel ?

 

[bertsmobile1]

FWIW I have been using Liquid Electrical Tape for decades on battery terminals to stop them corroding.
last year I started putting it on the top of pulleys like those where they can fill with water to prevent water getting in.
This is on top of the never seize or grease on the shaft.

 

[clicon357]

FWIW I have been using Liquid Electrical Tape for decades on battery terminals to stop them corroding.
last year I started putting it on the top of pulleys like those where they can fill with water to prevent water getting in.
This is on top of the never seize or grease on the shaft.

That's a good shout. Best I have here is Denso tape.

 

[bertsmobile1]

This stuff is a rubberised paint.
If you can remember the soft plastic cover on sharp tools that was obviously applied by dipping, then this is the stuff.
It will peel right off when you need to replace the pulley but sit there water tight.
The problem with anything that is fluidin any way is certripidal forces will cause it to get tossed off.

 

[clicon357]

The wheel still refuses to budge. Time to admit defeat and take a trip to use the neighbours oxy I think!

Took the gearbox shield out of the citric acid bath along with the bolts and gave them a quick coat of zinc and in the case of the guard some VW Brilliant Orange. What original paint wouldn't come off.....stayed on there. Not going for concours! Yes I know the match is way off, yes I know I should have picked a Ford colour! ?

I salvaged the fixings as they're odd sizes to what I usually play with (UNC). They'll get lubed before fitting.







Started sand blasting the gearbox but had very little medium to start with. It's got promise, just look at the two halves on the gearbox lever! I'm not prepared to use ordinary sand either, don't want silicosis!



Compare bolts left (blasted) and right (untouched):

 

[bertsmobile1]

Alloy castings respond well to soda blasting and that is not only cheap but not toxic so no chance of silicosis .
I have been using a soda blaster for 3 or 4 years now on carburettors with great success

 

[clicon357]

Alloy castings respond well to soda blasting and that is not only cheap but not toxic so no chance of silicosis .
I have been using a soda blaster for 3 or 4 years now on carburettors with great success

Can I ask what kit you use? A mate is interested in DIY blasting his oak beams.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Made a pop bottle soda blaster as per one of those You Tube videos.
Bought a 25kg bag of animal food grade soda ( sodium bicarbonate ) from the local farm supply to see if it works
Works like a dream save for the tendency of the soda to cake, even with a water filter on the air line.
Have not bothered to play with blast pressures, my set up is at 120 psi for the air tools.
Animal feed grade is a little coarser grained than the food grade you buy at the supermarket but not as large as the blast grade from a tool supply.
OTOH it was about 50¢ / kg
Totally by accident I used a bent shaft air duster , cause I had a box full of them bought cheap at a clearing auction.
The bent bit is good as it stops the bottle rotating around the duster shaft and I use a little ( lot ) of hot glue as well to seal it off.
After that it was a case of trial & error
The feed hole is a bit bigger and I am now using a flavoured milk bottle as the wider mouth makes easier to fill.
The bottle pressurizes a little so when you want to stop you have to turn it upside down or you blow 1/2 the contents out .
And because of the same thing, when the soda cakes & stops flowing a quick flick of the trigger will have it cleared .
Just take a bit of getting used to .
Don't know how it would go on wood but really good on plastic and soft metals but needs a dip in boiling water to clean it out
and so I found, a wipe down with slightly acid ( dilute vinegar ) solution if you want to paint over it or the paint does not take.

The stock feed soda also cakes really badly so I seive an ice cream containers worth which is kept sealed so I have some ready to use when needed.
IT has saved me a fortune in cans of carb cleaner & degreaser .
The landlord bought a blasting kit and it will not work with anything other than the expensive blast grade as it clogs badly.
The gravity spray gun type set up works beautifully

 

[clicon357]

As I've run out of blast medium here I asked and was quoted locally, £50 to soda blast his piddly little gearbox. FFS!

So I approached the shot blasting and painting outfit that the first company I worked for in 1983 used to used to paint our machines.

Chap down there will do me a 25kg bag of crushed glass shot shotblast media for £20. I'm going to take 2. Should have thought of them first!

Off topic I know but back in 2016 I had them shot blast, zinc flame spray and 2 pack paint the astronomy pier I designed and built for my brother: