Valve Guide Lube / Pulled the head off to adjust valves, opinion plz of photos 2nd day

Tell me if you know. Has anyone ever radiused these sharp edges to get charges in, and exhaust out of the cylinder with less turbulence? Should run cooler too. RPM is limited of course for a mower, but more charge in and more exhaust moving faster on the way out would lower head temp. Just a little would go a long way I think.

chamfer.jpg
 
This thread started because of the Led-Plate and the current manual insisting on it. I wonder how many other things are outdated with Briggs data. Has anyone else had trouble with their pictorials for their specific engine? I ordered a thermostat for it based on the model and serial. The mower is hard starting sometimes when hot. Rather than screw with the one on a 20 year old mower thought for $20 just replace it. Literature says they added it in 2005 and this is a 2006 model. Nope. Does not have one on this model even though they show it for the model and serial. I am now doubting the company as as reliable source for information. I just double checked and the Toro manual parts does not show it, however the problem with their pictorial is that there are no part numbers and every item number says "Obtain Parts from Briggs and Stratton." Since Covid/ SARS2 so much stuff like this happens. Just a trip to the store today two different zombies driving came very close, within a foot or two of hitting me due to inattention - you can tell when they look up from whatever they are doing and come back to reality long enough to know they are about to hit someone.
 
The intake guide is not too bad but the exhaust has too much play in it. Probably will send it out to a cart racing shop to have them put in new guides. No one does it around here. And I lack the reamer kit. None are for sale right now (1/4" valve .2440"). I noticed someone replaced guides in a youtube video and they still had a lot of play for a new guide. Several threads I came across said that the factory kit when it was available was too loose. Anyway, measured the bore - it is within spec but it is tight in one spot by about .001" The total out of round is within specs.

Just going to use assembly lube when done.

Q. The rod has no dipper. This is a 2006 190cc engine. Is that common? I thought all these splash oiled engines had one. Also the crankshaft is larger than the book specs. AI found the specs on it but I would expect the book to get it right too. The book has .996" but it measured 1.0990". AI had 1.0983 to 1.0991" That fits the later engines rather than the date code for this one. I bought it new so no one has been in it.
 
The cylinder has some seriously hardened carbon scratching going on.

As a minimum, the engine needs a good honing and new rings. The cylinder bore looks like someone made a hand sanding attempt sometime in the past.
 
sgkent said:
Tell me if you know. Has anyone ever radiused these sharp edges to get charges in, and exhaust out of the cylinder with less turbulence? Should run cooler too. RPM is limited of course for a mower, but more charge in and more exhaust moving faster on the way out would lower head temp. Just a little would go a long way I think.

View attachment 73875
Click to expand...
Doing a radius in those areas would likely lower the compression and affect the flame front of the combustion.
 
new valves came in. They barely wobble at all in the guides. Well within spec from a machinist's point of view.
 
I'm sure you already know you will need to lightly grind the valve tips carefully, then lap them and recheck the lash. Just a reminder.
 
yes. The new valves barely rock. Need to lap them in and check for bent. then check the gap and tip them until the clearance is in spec. We used to use a valve grinder to tip valves. Here I just do the unthinkable, use the side of a quality wheel as far out as I can, spin them as I lightly touch them. Check and do it again until in spec. Also have to gap the new rings. Spent the day cleaning parts.
 
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