Troy Bilt Pony 2016 won't turn over

Stupid question, but I gotta ask. Is this one of the mowers where full throttle applies the choke? If not, check linkages to make sure nothing funny happens pushing that throttle to full. It's odd that it runs fine at almost full, bogs at full. I haven't done much with Nikki carbs besides basic cleaning.
 
If it looks rich, it usually is. Sounds like you are restoring an engine instead of troubleshooting it.
 
Mark H_NO said:
Stupid question, but I gotta ask. Is this one of the mowers where full throttle applies the choke? If not, check linkages to make sure nothing funny happens pushing that throttle to full. It's odd that it runs fine at almost full, bogs at full. I haven't done much with Nikki carbs besides basic cleaning.
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You can't push the throttle all the way or it will start choking the engine.
 
Mark H_NO said:
Stupid question, but I gotta ask. Is this one of the mowers where full throttle applies the choke? If not, check linkages to make sure nothing funny happens pushing that throttle to full. It's odd that it runs fine at almost full, bogs at full. I haven't done much with Nikki carbs besides basic cleaning.
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Yes if you push throttle a the way up it activates the choke. However I have the engine cover off so I can see the throttle move and the choke is definitely not engaged. Even at 7/8 throttle and running fine if I engage the blades it instantly bogs down. I am going to check the flywheel key to see if it has moved. Also going to recheck the valve lash as the compression was 140.
 
Look at the carb needle and seat. Need to pressure test both making sure you are not flooding past the carb needle/seat.

Pull the oil stick and SMELL for fuel. If you smell gas, repair the needle/seat. Needle/seat must pass a pressure test for 30 minutes.

Check carb float height. Most are set too high and will make it run rich.

6mm spark jump, is that the max distance you saw spark jumping? So if you opened the gap up more she would die?

Hope you are testing for spark WITHOUT the plug inline. If you are running resistor plugs, will make your spark weaker. You can Ohm out the resistor. Should be roughly 4,500 Ohms. Anything over like 8k or more, replace the plug.

Recommend non-resistor plugs in small engines.
 
slomo said:
Look at the carb needle and seat. Need to pressure test both making sure you are not flooding past the carb needle/seat.

Pull the oil stick and SMELL for fuel. If you smell gas, repair the needle/seat. Needle/seat must pass a pressure test for 30 minutes.

Check carb float height. Most are set too high and will make it run rich.

6mm spark jump, is that the max distance you saw spark jumping? So if you opened the gap up more she would die?

Hope you are testing for spark WITHOUT the plug inline. If you are running resistor plugs, will make your spark weaker. You can Ohm out the resistor. Should be roughly 4,500 Ohms. Anything over like 8k or more, replace the plug.

Recommend non-resistor plugs in small engines.
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Ran the same before and after an oil change. Have tested spark in line and with a spark tester. I can run pet-4000 tester to about 8-9 mm before it dies. New spark plug resistance is good. New needle installed with oring kit. Can't adjust float as it is plastic.
 
where did you get the spark plug? I have seen two youtubes in the last 48 hours where the only thing that was wrong was the prior owner bought a spark plug online and guess what. It was counterfeit and ran the engine poorly. In both cases on general practice the people working on the engine put in a known good plug bought thru their local parts store and all the problems went away.
 
Does it lose power when the blades are not engaged and the RPM is up? Make sure the belt moves freely. If it is binding the amount of power being drained can stall an engine.
 
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