troy bilt Bronco wiring diagram

After I do this I will follow up and let you all know how it has worked out. Again, I should not have any concern of the battery being slowly drained by the rectifier or anything else? If I put my amp meter between the battery and the Red battery cable I should get Zero draw, with everything off. Right?
 
You probably will have a few milliamps current draw which would normal for this configuration which is why I prefer a switch setup when a regulator is involved.
 
Currently the regulator output is connected the battery side of the starter solenoid. What I mean is connect the regulator output to the "A" of ignition switch instead of the solenoid so when you turn off the ignition switch the regulator gets disconnected and the lights if that wire was still in place. It all simple wiring changes when you know what you are doing.
 
Thanks for all of the help. I installed an illuminated toggle on the head lights. There was a 1.3 milli Amp draw when the tractor was off. This should be fine to sit for a month or so in the summer. I installed a battery cut off for longer term storage.

I have just a general question for you experts It seems the engines with the Rectifier/regulator are more desirable as the DC output is smoother and more controlled than the AC. It is also ready to power LED lights or a some other DC device if it was desired to add. I noticed the JD's and tractors with the rectifier use an additional relay to manage some of the power.

Is what I noted above accurate and hence the Engines with the Rectifier/regulator are more desirable overall.?
 
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