Trailer suggestions for high millage

How you load a trailer and what you load it with really depends on the physical size of the trailer and it's load ratings. In my case knowing the weights of every piece equipment makes a big difference in how and where it gets loaded and mounted and it shouldn't be a waste of time if you care about safety. Trucks have pull ratings as well as load ratings. Pulling with a light weight vehicle is fine as long as your pulling something within the vehicle's tongue weight and recommendations.

This is the reason I have the use of 5 different trailers and different tow vehicles. My smallest trailer 1000lbs., pull able with a car and for smaller equipment and good gas mileage, to a triple axle trailer good for up to 18,000 lbs. pulled with a HD 1 ton dully diesel for small dozers. For 99% of my trailer needs I would say I use my all aluminum trailer 2000 lb. rate with a loading ramp and pull it with my car. Being in the repair trade no two loads are the same and most of the time not runnable or moves on its own. Most of the time just a come-a-long to load lawn equipment to a 12,000 lb. pull rate electric winch for full size farm tractors to pull unto the trailers. For really large equipment we have to hire a lowboy. At my age the heavy equipment is for my son in law and grand son to handle, repair, and play with. For me its lawn mowers and cycles.
 
just don't buy a cheap box store trailer. I've never measured tongue weight either. I have a 18' 20k lbs Hank dump trailer never had sway problems loaded or unloaded. I have 2 mid west trailers one is an 20' equipment trailer and one is an 18' landscape trailer all are tandem axle none have sway issues. I use a solid straight draw bar for the dump just because of the weight. if buy a cheap trailer just expect cheap results.
 
I have noticed my trailers will get that wobble when it is loaded un-evenly. when i go pick up a load of rocks and the loader loads me up heave in the front or rear it will sway back and forth at higher speeds so i have to slow it down until i get to the job site. make sure you are evenly distributing the weight on the trailer the best you can and try to get it level when loaded. Also check out some tires with a higher ply count. another thing would be to check and make sure the tires are not rubbing on the wheel wells, that can happen if you dent in the wheel wells by accidently hitting it with your mower, good luck man.
 
You need to level your trailer. When hauling an average load like pictured the trailer should be near level. You have plenty of truck for the load. Get your hitch offset down enough to lower the trailer. They have them at a car parts place.
 
thanks guys, I'll check out the wheel well and try to get the trailer level. Gonna order another set of tires before mowing starts, as I'm gonna put 20k+ miles on that trailer. I'll take a closer look at the ply count.

Does anyone use tailgate ramps? Then just load the mower right into the bed of the truck.
 

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thanks guys, I'll check out the wheel well and try to get the trailer level. Gonna order another set of tires before mowing starts, as I'm gonna put 20k+ miles on that trailer. I'll take a closer look at the ply count.

Does anyone use tailgate ramps? Then just load the mower right into the bed of the truck.

Yes, I use them. you want to have a shallow of enough angle that the deck of your mower is not scraping. You can make your own with a welder and use a gate assist like the gorilla lift because it gets heavy. If you decide to have one made, use the heaviest expanded metal you can do without it being too heavy to lift and dont weld any seams in the middle of the gate because thats where the mower is driving. the metal will start to sag and pop the welds. let me know if you are going to actually get one and i'll throw up some pictures.
 
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