Need torque spec for Briggs 190 cc Lhead to Toro recycler aluminum deck. I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find it. I am getting some noise on a recent rebuild and it sounds like it is coming from the deck or blade. Blade is like 60 ft lbs so I doubt that is it, but the deck bolt torque I found on line and used seemed light, however don't want to strip out the engine case. Sounds like the tip of a blade hitting something but there is nothing to hit unless the engine is moving around on the deck. Have set the morning aside tomorrow to work on it and replace the struts on a 2004 sable wagon. Hate to spend either until midnight tonight or part of tomorrow trying to find the proper spec on the engine to deck torque. Typical 3 bolt setup as I recall.
Torque spec
- Thread starter sgkent
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Check under the engine for cracking around the mount bolt hole areas. If you have most any older repair manual, it will have a universal bolt size torque chart in the very front or back of the book, so look there. Universal bolt torque charts are also available online.
Can you pull the plug and turn the engine by hand and duplicate any noise?
Can you pull the plug and turn the engine by hand and duplicate any noise?
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Messages
- 3,393
On a side note, about the 2004 sable. Make sure you get the rear struts designated for taxicab/wagon. Regular sedan ones are built too light. I have owned a small fleet of Sable and Taurus vehicles over the years. I especially like the 3.0 DOHC models.
I could not find that torque in the books or online. If someone has it, it will be something they probably collected for Briggs L head mowers as they worked on them. The serial and model are below the text. I believe the three bolts thread into the case, vs thru the case into the deck, or use nuts. Toro or Briggs did publish a generic list for bolts by size and grade, in which case it would be 20 - 30 ft lbs. I'd rather have a specific torque than risk stripping the new case. I'm getting a growing sound that is somewhat like a blade tip strike against something. Haven't gone out yet this morning to work on it. The exhaust is louder too suddenly but there was no rot on it. Doesn't sound like valves, piston (slap etc) or rod. Thinking that maybe the engine is loose on the deck, however I used Loctite so it should not be. I was meticulous cleaning parts, keeping them clean, and putting it all back together. I was an engine builder back when I was in my early 30's. Usually when I put something back together it is equal or better than the original factory. I am thinking maybe the engine has come a little loose but I will check every thing and listen to it with a long screwdriver or stethoscope. Using Trufuel, which is I think 92+ octane, so it should not be detonation but it could be. Nothing changed as to the head and block other than I had to sand the head to get it flat again, maybe .002" or .003" sanded off it and that should not be enough to cause detonation. It only has about 3 to 4 hours on it.
RE On a sidenote for Sable HD shocks etc.: 2004 Sable wagon - the wagon rears are A-Arm and coil spring, whereas the sedans (which we do not have) are strut rears. Got the Mevotech springs and a set of KYB shocks, and old stock Moog ball joints. Mevotech springs too for the front along with new KYB Struts, KYB bearing plates, top spring plates, and lower rubber isolators to build them. All the Moog and Ford stuff for it are NLA, or 20 years old from sitting on a shelf, and the gas has leaked out of the shocks/struts. I sent back maybe 3 sets of old stock Monroe heavy duty shocks and struts that were degraded to junk status. Lost a ton of time trying to find them, and some money fighting with both Parts Geek and Rock Auto over some of the parts that had to be returned. Both sellers use AI to arrange returns, and have no customer service phone numbers anymore. It was an awful experience. I had to dispute the sales with Visa, and e-mail their CEO's to get a refund on some of the bad parts. Ebay stuff was easier to return when it arrived devoid of gas after sitting 15 - 20 years on a shelf. There were no shocks available that were firmer than KYB new production, and Mevotech was the only source for rear springs. They are made with wider variable OD steel but 1" shorter than the worn out original Ford Springs so they have a stiffer rate. However, the car sits maybe 5/8" higher in back compared to the old springs that had collapsed slowly over 22 years and 125,000 miles.
Toro 20055 260015175
Briggs engine 125K02-0189-E1 06041958
RE On a sidenote for Sable HD shocks etc.: 2004 Sable wagon - the wagon rears are A-Arm and coil spring, whereas the sedans (which we do not have) are strut rears. Got the Mevotech springs and a set of KYB shocks, and old stock Moog ball joints. Mevotech springs too for the front along with new KYB Struts, KYB bearing plates, top spring plates, and lower rubber isolators to build them. All the Moog and Ford stuff for it are NLA, or 20 years old from sitting on a shelf, and the gas has leaked out of the shocks/struts. I sent back maybe 3 sets of old stock Monroe heavy duty shocks and struts that were degraded to junk status. Lost a ton of time trying to find them, and some money fighting with both Parts Geek and Rock Auto over some of the parts that had to be returned. Both sellers use AI to arrange returns, and have no customer service phone numbers anymore. It was an awful experience. I had to dispute the sales with Visa, and e-mail their CEO's to get a refund on some of the bad parts. Ebay stuff was easier to return when it arrived devoid of gas after sitting 15 - 20 years on a shelf. There were no shocks available that were firmer than KYB new production, and Mevotech was the only source for rear springs. They are made with wider variable OD steel but 1" shorter than the worn out original Ford Springs so they have a stiffer rate. However, the car sits maybe 5/8" higher in back compared to the old springs that had collapsed slowly over 22 years and 125,000 miles.
Toro 20055 260015175
Briggs engine 125K02-0189-E1 06041958