Toro Timecutter (75742) G6 Gator Blade question

MParr

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
1,439
One more thing. Oregon lists those blades at 21 9/16” long. Rotary lists their blades at 21 5/8” long. The Rotary blades would be 1/16” longer. This may or may not be the case. I have used a lot of Rotary blades and they make their blades to OEM dimensions. If the Rotary part number lists the Toro blade part number, it will fit without problems.
You can go to Rotary, Stens, and Oregon websites and put in the Toro part number. If there is no match, don’t try to wing it.
Your Toro blade part number is 137-1999-03. If you do not see that number listed as a cross to an aftermarket blade, I would avoid it.
 

apg1979

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
36
One more thing. Oregon lists those blades at 21 9/16” long. Rotary lists their blades at 21 5/8” long. The Rotary blades would be 1/16” longer. This may or may not be the case. I have used a lot of Rotary blades and they make their blades to OEM dimensions. If the Rotary part number lists the Toro blade part number, it will fit without problems.
You can go to Rotary, Stens, and Oregon websites and put in the Toro part number. If there is no match, don’t try to wing it.
good to keep in mind! so for Oregon i put in the stock blade part # and nothing showed up but when i put in the model of the mower the G6 showed up (only one Oregon said they show compatible...mentioned that they are behind on updating w/ newer models). i did notice the slightly larger length on the Rotary one and was curious about that . I know the G6 that i had in there spun fine and did not collide w/ each other and had a very slight gap between when they'd pass but i didnt measure before i sent them back unfortunately. i do have my stock blades i can measure in the morning to make sure though what those measure out at
 

MParr

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
1,439
Mower companies can change the deck dimensions ever so slightly as model numbers change. So a 42” Toro deck may be slightly wider or more narrow when the model numbers change. The length of blades will have to change as well. But, they will continue to list it as a 42” cut. You can have a couple of things that can happen, as a result. You can get blades striking one another or the deck. Or, you can have enough gap between the blades to leave strips of uncut grass. I had a Toro MX5000 with the same problem. I could only use Toro OEM blades or Rotary blades.
 

apg1979

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
36
good point there! so local store here has what looks like those G3's in stock so i may get a specific measurement of my stock blades tomorrow and go check them out to see if they match up in length or not. that offset is my only concern but i could bring them home to see how they look in there before i decide. that gap between i had in mind as well. if that doesnt work i'm gonna check out the Rotary ones (dont think i can get those local)
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
64
Messages
24,705
Also remember that there might be more than one part number for your blades
From Toro usually do a high lift & a low lift blade for just about every deck
And the blades for the fabricated deck may not be the same for the pressed deck
If you plug in the part number for a high lift blade then you will usually not get a Gator equivalent because the Gator is a mulching blade
I have been caught out before when just using the part numbers rather than the make & model number search
Now days I do a "blade by length" search to find blades of the same length then eliminate the ones with different mounting holes
For instance I fit Great Dane notched high lift blades to one of the Toro Z Masters and eXmark low lifts to the Great Dane.
In many cases it is trial & error to find which particular blade works best on your grass and in many cases you might need 2 different blades depending upon the season .
Right now I have just finished fitting the low lift ( Sand ) blades to the Cubs that we mow the pasture with as the grass is very stalky as it has gone to seed and the with the high lifts on the stalks just wrap around the spindle and wear out the bottom of the spindle housings .
Come spring ( I am in the souther hemisphere ) the high lifts will go back on again .
We wen through 17 different blades to work out what cuts best at which time of the year .
There is no such thing as a universal "best " blade it is a case of finding out what is the RIGHT blades for you .
Don't be afraid to experiment and if you get a really dud set , then put them aside for emergency use only .
After all they are only blades and blades are a service replacement part .
 

andyboy

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Threads
1
Messages
14
I am heading into my fourth season using G3's on my 42" Timecutter. I have had no problems and am pleased with the improvement from the factory blades. I have them with mulching upgrades on the deck and I see some of the results mentioned here but I have no regrets.
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
189
I agree, also if I recall, the timecutter blades are timed and driven by plastic cogged pulley that split in halve if you hit something, so do not hit an object!!!!!!!!!!!
 

apg1979

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
36
thanks everyone! good to remember on using the right blade/tool for the right situation so i was hoping to have a mulching blade along w/ the stock high lift ones to alternate if needed. as for hitting things, the only things i would really ever run into in my yard is small sticks (we pick up the big ones of course) or pine cones so hopefully thats ok. I have a coworker w/ a larger version of y timecutter and the g3's and also the mulch kit from toro and loves the results (mostly how they handle leaves) so i thought if i have luck w/ that blade i could add the plug and middle baffle to see how it does in the fall.....i think i prefer side discharge otherwise.

alright so i found HomeDepot had a pair of the g3's in stock so i picked them up tonight and loosely put them on to see how they work. below you can see the gap when they pass by each other (look to spin fine w/out any collision) and the offset/drop it has a 1/2 inch yet from the bottom of the blade to the little lip at the bottom of the deck so hoping thats sufficient. obviously i'll have to play around w/ deck height since its a little closer to the ground vs the stock ones. anything in these that look concerning ? (not the best photo's i got quickly.....only 2 quick mows w/ this new machine late fall looks like it did a number on the underdeck paint job already) . the g3's definitely are a lot lighter than the 6's so thats nice....they actually are a bit narrower vs the stock blades
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220427_163639_75.jpeg
    IMG_20220427_163639_75.jpeg
    857.1 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_20220427_172918_75.jpeg
    IMG_20220427_172918_75.jpeg
    493.7 KB · Views: 11
  • Hnet.com-image.jpg
    Hnet.com-image.jpg
    321.3 KB · Views: 11

MParr

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
1,439
I see that your Toro blade part number is not listed on that G3 blade. It may work out though.
 

apg1979

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
36
I see that your Toro blade part number is not listed on that G3 blade. It may work out though.
thats just the sticker on the new g3's......the stock toro blades are not in any of those pictures. just wanted to post those to get an idea how the g3's fit in there (gap between the 2 when they pass in the middle and how the bottom of the blades hits on the bottom of the deck (oregon cautioned about it being a lower offset that it could sometimes shoot blades out of the bottom
 
Top