Toro ss4235 cutting out when handles pulled in - video
- Thread starter wrdabney
- Start date
Fish
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 5,130
No worries...
While it's running or just unplug it then crank it up? Any chance you could point this out to me on the wiring diagram?
yeah stick to the topic,in FACT I do get a being taught feeling when riviets responds,i enjoy learning, despite what my wife says im not a know it all,but I want to be.
Fish
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 5,130
Well on the diagram, go to the right to the engine. It would be the small wire coming from "Mag Kill" to the "Ignition Module", on most mowers, that wire usually is
on a circuit that puts it to ground to shut off the engine, unfortunately yours is a bit more complicated, and the brake actuator fulfills several functions, including
sending the kill wire to ground to shut it down. I was curious to see if you were shutting down because your mag was being grounded, or that the fuel solenoid was
being shut off, which would account for the engine running an extra second or so when the lever was moved in, as it takes a second or so to run out that last bit of fuel.
The neutral shifts on the levers obviously work, so it is just a matter of eliminating suspects, so a test light or voltmeter would be handy.
remove the keyswitch from the mower, look at the terminals you will see letters that should correspond with the letter on the diagram of the key switch.
on a circuit that puts it to ground to shut off the engine, unfortunately yours is a bit more complicated, and the brake actuator fulfills several functions, including
sending the kill wire to ground to shut it down. I was curious to see if you were shutting down because your mag was being grounded, or that the fuel solenoid was
being shut off, which would account for the engine running an extra second or so when the lever was moved in, as it takes a second or so to run out that last bit of fuel.
The neutral shifts on the levers obviously work, so it is just a matter of eliminating suspects, so a test light or voltmeter would be handy.
remove the keyswitch from the mower, look at the terminals you will see letters that should correspond with the letter on the diagram of the key switch.
Fish
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 5,130
Yeah, electrical can be a pain, especially when the mower is several hundred miles away.
I have a volt meter. What you I test on the key switch?
Fish
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 5,130
Yes, a multi meter would work just fine, just set it to dc volts and clamp the black lead to the negative terminal, then plug the keyswitch back onto its plug on the harness, but leave it free so you can test the terminals on the back.
Now look at the little chart beside the keyswitch on the diagram, and the keyswitch has 3 positions: off, on, start [or crank].
Now, with the key on the "off" position, check the voltage on each terminal {keyswitch plugged in of course}. You should have voltage on only the "B" terminal, and you also should have voltage at the B+ terminal at the brake actuator.
Now, turn the key to the next position, "On". What terminals now have voltage?
Now look at the little chart beside the keyswitch on the diagram, and the keyswitch has 3 positions: off, on, start [or crank].
Now, with the key on the "off" position, check the voltage on each terminal {keyswitch plugged in of course}. You should have voltage on only the "B" terminal, and you also should have voltage at the B+ terminal at the brake actuator.
Now, turn the key to the next position, "On". What terminals now have voltage?
I'll try one more time. I have asked you to double check the the safety switches and the PTO switch. If those are working correctly, then the only other thing is the brake actuator module. Plug the connection on the module and check for corrosion on both the plug and the module. If you find corrosion I'm afraid that you will have to replace both the module and the wiring harness. You can take this info and do as you please. This will be the last time I will post on this thread, because I don't feel that you trust what I say, but when others refer to me in their posts figure I should give it one more try. Good Luck.
Are you referring to me not trusting what you say? I don't not trust what any of you say because you know a heck of a lot more than I do about it. I just don't know what the heck I am doing and am trying to figure it out. I was under the impression that the test that I did that Fish said (Mower running, turn pto on (it works) and stand up to make sure the seat switch is bypassed correctly (it is)) took care of the seat switch and the pto switch. You said to check the handle safety switches but never told me how to test them so I am not sure what to do here. Don't get your britches in a wad over a little miscommunication. The internet isn't a wonderful forum for efficient communication.