Toro Engine Ruined?
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bertsmobile1
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It is possible to repair anything
The difference is weather it is economical to do so
So unless you know a crack a jack welded & machinist the you have some metal looking for a scrap bin .
The difference is weather it is economical to do so
So unless you know a crack a jack welded & machinist the you have some metal looking for a scrap bin .
That's what I figured, and why I edited out "100% irreparable". 
So, what's to be done, can I remove the whole engine and replace is? Can I replace less than that, if I'm figuring it out as I go? Am I doomed to buying a new mower? I've literally had this for 2.5 cuts on about an acre of land. It's my first zero turn.
I did a fair amount of work on the deck if my previous riding mower, but the only work I've done in a mower engine is replacing a carburetor. I've done simple jobs on cars DIY (replacing alternators, water pumps, sensors, etc.).
I'd be happy learn as I go to replace the engine, but i dont want to get so in over my head that the the grass doesn't get cut (or I'm paying someone else to cut it) for the next month or 2.
So, what's to be done, can I remove the whole engine and replace is? Can I replace less than that, if I'm figuring it out as I go? Am I doomed to buying a new mower? I've literally had this for 2.5 cuts on about an acre of land. It's my first zero turn.
I did a fair amount of work on the deck if my previous riding mower, but the only work I've done in a mower engine is replacing a carburetor. I've done simple jobs on cars DIY (replacing alternators, water pumps, sensors, etc.).
I'd be happy learn as I go to replace the engine, but i dont want to get so in over my head that the the grass doesn't get cut (or I'm paying someone else to cut it) for the next month or 2.
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you bought the Z turn used correct?
Looking at toro, a new crankcase is $203. But then ask yourself, what caused that particular case to crack, was it a fault in the case, or did something inside the engine (i.e. counterweight) let go?
Now this appears to use a counter weight that is a another shaft, and gear driven, as opposed to a reciprocal type some engines so that's probably not it.
www.toro.com
Looking at toro, a new crankcase is $203. But then ask yourself, what caused that particular case to crack, was it a fault in the case, or did something inside the engine (i.e. counterweight) let go?
Now this appears to use a counter weight that is a another shaft, and gear driven, as opposed to a reciprocal type some engines so that's probably not it.
Parts – TimeCutter SS 4200 Riding Mower | Toro
www.toro.com
I noticed the mower started to move a bit slow, but didnt think much of it, and maybe a 60-90 seconds later smelled something, so I turned back and saw oil all over the platform the engine sits on, and smoke rising from the engine. So, I shit it off abruptly. I didn't even turn off the blades. It backfired pretty loud.
I went inside and let it cool down, and came back out about 2hr later. The oil was completely drained. The oil was fine before I started, I figured filled it back up figuring I could at least drive it to the backyard to work on it. The engine shut off within 2-3 seconds, but I didnt hear anything particularly loud then.
That's when I discovered the crack. Obviously, at that point the oil drained out again.
I'm not sure if I could have missed the sound of the engine cracking the second time, but idk how loud that would really be. So, I'm not sure when the damage was done. I did find a spot that was barely connected that might have been when it leaked out the first time, or it might have come loose when the engine blew. I'll post some pictures when it's light out tomorrow.
I'll also call the place I got the mower from tomorrow and figure out how long they had it. Mu first guess when I saw the leak was that a gasket or something could have dried out if it sat unused for awhile, and that seal just failed when I was riding it.
I went inside and let it cool down, and came back out about 2hr later. The oil was completely drained. The oil was fine before I started, I figured filled it back up figuring I could at least drive it to the backyard to work on it. The engine shut off within 2-3 seconds, but I didnt hear anything particularly loud then.
That's when I discovered the crack. Obviously, at that point the oil drained out again.
I'm not sure if I could have missed the sound of the engine cracking the second time, but idk how loud that would really be. So, I'm not sure when the damage was done. I did find a spot that was barely connected that might have been when it leaked out the first time, or it might have come loose when the engine blew. I'll post some pictures when it's light out tomorrow.
I'll also call the place I got the mower from tomorrow and figure out how long they had it. Mu first guess when I saw the leak was that a gasket or something could have dried out if it sat unused for awhile, and that seal just failed when I was riding it.
bertsmobile1
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Engine replacements are the easiest way to go .
If it was a Toro branded engine then it will be a Loncin.
Get one of them & it should be plug & play
Any other brand will require some rewiring as they use different shaped plugs.
OTOH 20 minutes of plug replacements can save hundreds of dollars.
Right now there are a lot of very cheap B & S engines at the surplus engine retailers .
I would expect they were cancelled orders from last season when Briggs filed for Bankruptcy so manufacturers opted for different engines just in case of supply problems
If it was a Toro branded engine then it will be a Loncin.
Get one of them & it should be plug & play
Any other brand will require some rewiring as they use different shaped plugs.
OTOH 20 minutes of plug replacements can save hundreds of dollars.
Right now there are a lot of very cheap B & S engines at the surplus engine retailers .
I would expect they were cancelled orders from last season when Briggs filed for Bankruptcy so manufacturers opted for different engines just in case of supply problems
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Adding to what Bert said, toro shows a 452CC, and being a Loncin i came up with LC1P92F-1... there are a couple floating around on the interscreen from $800 to $900....
How do I shop for this? What specs do I need to identify and match up? I don't mind spending the weekend working on it, I'm guessing I'm going to have to travel to get the thing, if I want it soon.
Should I be finding retailers and calling, or poking aroundon the intenet?
edit: I'm seeing prices everywhere from $1200+ to $300, and I'm guessing I'm not looking at products that are at all comerable...
Should I be finding retailers and calling, or poking aroundon the intenet?
edit: I'm seeing prices everywhere from $1200+ to $300, and I'm guessing I'm not looking at products that are at all comerable...
bertsmobile1
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You are looking for a standard 1" shaft diameter mower engine with a strait drilled & tapped PTO shaft.
SES
SEW
Both of these sites have instructions how to replace your engine.
Basically you need the same PTO diameter & length , an alternator with the same or higher output and of roughly the same Hp although that is nowhere near as important as many think.
After that it is easier if you pick the same brand because the plugs should be the same ,
SES
SEW
Both of these sites have instructions how to replace your engine.
Basically you need the same PTO diameter & length , an alternator with the same or higher output and of roughly the same Hp although that is nowhere near as important as many think.
After that it is easier if you pick the same brand because the plugs should be the same ,