Tired old techumseh

kirkkw

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If you want an aftermarket carb buy HIPA. A couple of famous Youtube small engine shops have both recently stated they have used HIPA carbs very successfully.

Look at Chickanic and Taryl Fixes All on Youtube
 
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pay1920

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I will give this a try. I am all about getting one more season if I can. Even if I can get a few weeks out of it that is a win.

My big concern is the amount of oil it burns.

I'm still considering getting a backup motor so if this one goes down I have one on hand for a quick replacement. Our primary heat source is wood so Murphy would say the motor will go out at the least convenient time i have a decent stockpile and I can always split with an axe but the log splitter is so much easier on the body.
I've seen a lot of engines on pressure washers for sale on facebook marketplace where the pump has gone bad, Just a thought.
 

Forest#2

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I’d get an aftermarket carb off eBay and try it for $10-$12. Take pics of how the linkage goes in what hole on the carb.
I put linkage in the wrong hole and engine ran 2800 rpms instead of faster.
I believe there are three holes?

If you want a project, then hone it, new cylinder and rings with a gasket kit. Cost $50-$75 in parts.

These are the “good” Tecumseh engines and this can give you many more years of service.

I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.
I added a snow king flywheel with teeth and an electric starter to make mine easier to start. Cost $100.

I've done the same. Lot easier to start in cold weather.
 

Forest#2

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Set of rings and some gaskets would most likely stop the oil burning.
Rings would be the costly item if they can be found.

Set rings now days for a small Briggs are jaw dropper priced.
 

RevB

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That’s what I’d do
A rebuild is more than just throwing parts at it. Specs, allowable dimensions, wear limits, parts availability. Nice to know what is worn beyond serviceability, if anything. Being a parts cannon is worse than useless.
 

bentrim

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Hello T.,

The HM100 is a 10HP rated engine, but an 8HP would still do the job on a log splitter. These were heavy cast iron blocks and held up very well for a lot of years.

A lot of this depends on matching the crankshaft dimensions. Length, diameter and with or without a taper on the output shaft.

The bolt down dimensions may require that new holes be drilled to mount a replacement engine.

Being that old of an engine may take some adapting. I am still a fan of the old B&S flat head engines for applications like this. They were simpler to work on that the Tecumseh and lots of parts are still available for them.

Chinese clone engines are a big gamble and most compatible Honda GX series engines are just too expensive.
Best check your information The HH80, 100, 120 were cast iron. The HM 100 was aluminum and used a cast sleeve as was the H70 which originally had an aluminum bore. All these were used on MF lawn and garden tractors.
 

bentrim

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I've seen a lot of engines on pressure washers for sale on facebook marketplace where the pump has gone bad, Just a thought.
Be careful Pressure washer engines usually have a very short crank. May not be long enough
 

Forest#2

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A rebuild is more than just throwing parts at it. Specs, allowable dimensions, wear limits, parts availability. Nice to know what is worn beyond serviceability, if anything. Being a parts cannon is worse than useless.

Right need to inspect before ordering parts. Might be whipping on a dead horse. I would look at availability of parts and prices BEFORE I even removed ONE bolt for a inspection. (of a obsolete unit)
I would probably look for a replacement engine and just use the Tecumseh oil burner on the log splitter as is and only think about a POSSIBLE rebuild in my spare time as a backup engine.
AND be sure and not overlook the valve guides, especially the intake guide. I've seen some small engines consume lots of oil and foul plug due to bad valve guides and it being headed toward the catagory of dinosaur egg not worth the effort of a re-furbish/re-build.
 
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