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temperature warning light inop on 924614A

#1

J

johnbell47

temperature warning light does not work. changed temp switch, still no work. Old switch appeard to be new and ohmed out like it was for a gauge, so I think it was the wrong switch. no markings. I changed it to an old timey warning light switch, (Standard TS 66 for a light. had to retap the thermostat housing for NPT threads to make it fit but it does fit and does not leak, bulb is new. I am NOT showing continuity between sender switch connection and other end of the wire at the light. I see in the wiring diagram that there is a diode somewhere before wire goes to alarm. Where is it? thanks for any suggestions. I ran a temporary wire from sender to switch and it does operate but no alarm.


#2

StarTech

StarTech

I can't pull anything up on the 924614A number on the Hustler site I use. The site is asking only for a six digit model number. If I could access the info I might be to figure which Hustler you are working on.

Can you PM me the schematic and IPL links? So I can look them over.


#3

A

Auto Doc's

temperature warning light does not work. changed temp switch, still no work. Old switch appeard to be new and ohmed out like it was for a gauge, so I think it was the wrong switch. no markings. I changed it to an old timey warning light switch, (Standard TS 66 for a light. had to retap the thermostat housing for NPT threads to make it fit but it does fit and does not leak, bulb is new. I am NOT showing continuity between sender switch connection and other end of the wire at the light. I see in the wiring diagram that there is a diode somewhere before wire goes to alarm. Where is it? thanks for any suggestions. I ran a temporary wire from sender to switch and it does operate but no alarm.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

That model is not listed on that site Auto Doc. I tried it before I posted.


#5

A

Auto Doc's

That is my point to the OP.


#6

StarTech

StarTech

Got the parts manual nothing on the wiring harness in it I think.


#7

J

johnbell47

I can't pull anything up on the 924614A number on the Hustler site I use. The site is asking only for a six digit model number. If I could access the info I might be to figure which Hustler you are working on.

Can you PM me the schematic and IPL links? So I can look them over.
I have the number wrong, it is 928614A instead, number is rather difficult to read.


#8

J

johnbell47

I can't pull anything up on the 924614A number on the Hustler site I use. The site is asking only for a six digit model number. If I could access the info I might be to figure which Hustler you are working on.

Can you PM me the schematic and IPL links? So I can look them over.



#10

A

Auto Doc's

With the key on, can you ground the sender wire, and the light comes on? If it does not, there as a power wire broken going to the light. If the light does work, the new sender is likely faulty.


#11

J

johnbell47

With the key on, can you ground the sender wire, and the light comes on? If it does not, there as a power wire broken going to the light. If the light does work, the new sender is likely faulty.
with key on, grounding the sender wire does not bring the light on. the other side of the light does have 12 volts and works with a jumper wire to the sender. So. there is an open in the sender wire from the sender to the light. (evidently) this wirew also goes through a diode to the warning buzzer. They evidently buried the diode in the wiring harness. anybody know where so i can check it? I did verify that the new sender works with a light and heated it up with a heat gun, it tripped at about 230 degrees and showed continuity.


#12

A

Auto Doc's

Hello J.,

The diode is likely placed inline under some black shrink take and it is blown/fractured internally from a shorted warning buzzer. Trace down the harness from the buzzer and the light, then bypass the buzzer and the diode one at a time to see if the light works when the sender is grounded.


#13

J

johnbell47

Hello J.,

The diode is likely placed inline under some black shrink take and it is blown/fractured internally from a shorted warning buzzer. Trace down the harness from the buzzer and the light, then bypass the buzzer and the diode one at a time to see if the light works when the sender is grounded.
sound like a plan. The buzzer has been working. I checked the leads on it with the engine running and was showing a light on both sides, I was using a probe light, battery was dead on my meter, but I will check it in the next few days, cold in the shop right now. thank you ! if I the value of the diodes I could just run a new wirre with a diode in it over to the buzzer to see what happened, If the diode blew I would know the buzzer has gone to ground, I really don't think it has due to it worked recently. I can check it in other ways I guess, but diodes are cheep.


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