Tecumseh LV195EA engine issues

[Daniels45]

Ive been having this issue for a while now and cleaning out the carburator and doing the carb repair kit thing didn't help. Spark plugs and filter have also been replaced. The issue is when I first crank it after a 4 push prime, the mower will start only to quit about 1 minut later. This scenario will repeat itself about 4 to 5 times. Afterwards it seems to run fine except when I start mowing longer grass and it starts to bog down and quit. I think I may have to bring it in for repairs but not sure if just buying a new mower would be a better idea unless someone here can help me troubleshoot the issue. Would love to have this thing working like new without having to pay too much.

Update: I redid the carb cleaning and still the same issues. Also tried without the gas cap on to see if the cap vents were clogged up and still stalling. Only thing I can think of now is maybe the coil needs to be replaced. Anything else I may be missing ?

 

[Rivets]

When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? Tecumseh part number 631021B. Here is a procedure to do so.

Needle and seat replacement

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.

 

[Daniels45]

When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? Tecumseh part number 631021B. Here is a procedure to do so.

Needle and seat replacement

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.

Yes I replaced all the stuff that came in the carb repair kit including all Orings needle and float. I passed through wire mesh through all holes. I cleaned off the rust on the coil contact surfaces and made sure that I had a .012" gap. Only things remaining to do is to check the flywheel key, compression and that air intake hose that connects into the carb. Seems a bit loose.

Just a bit more info on my issues. When I first start the engine it will run fine with fast rpms and then as it warms up the governor will move and slow the engine down till it stalls. Maybe I just need a governor adjustment ? Can this be done form outside the engine or do I need to take the engine apart ?

 

[Rivets]

First, reset the armature air gap at .010 inches. Here is a manual which explains how to adjust the governor.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

 

[Daniels45]

First, reset the armature air gap at .010 inches. Here is a manual which explains how to adjust the governor.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tec...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

Armature air gap is .010" gapped using 3 pieces of paper which I measured with a caliper.

Heres a small video of my issue which I also posted in the lawn boy forum.

 

[Daniels45]

OK a small update here. I read up on the governor and it would seem that mine works as intended. You can see it in action in the video where as the engine slows down the governor rod pushes on the throttle body plate and opens up which should give the engine more fuel hence more rpm but it stalls instead.

The only explanation I can think of is that either I need to replace head gasket and fuel intake gasket due to leaks or the carburator is still at fault and although I've cleaned it numerous times maybe I will just replace it.

 

[Rivets]

Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?

 

[Daniels45]

Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?

Yes I did all that but it would seem to me if I had a fuel starvation issue then it would always quit on me...not just after the first 3 or 4 starts. No ?

 

[Two-Stroke]

Just checked your video and this is a fuel starvation problem. Did your replace the float needle and seat? Did you clean the jet behind the black cap?

Ding, Ding, Ding! That was my first impression when I saw the video.

Fuel starvation problems are common while things like head gasket leaks (assuming the engine hasn't been abused) are relatively rare.

 

[Daniels45]

Ding, Ding, Ding! That was my first impression when I saw the video.

Fuel starvation problems are common while things like head gasket leaks (assuming the engine hasn't been abused) are relatively rare.

Yeah it sure looks like that. You see I've had this issue since last summer. Had read up on the issue back then as well and everything was pointing me to a plugged up carb and since this carb had never been serviced before I purchased a carb servicing kit and replaced all replaceable parts that came in the kit and yes, I also cleaned it and poked through all the holes in the carb and on the bowl screw and also the screw behind the black plastic cap. Still had the problem and just gave up and endure the issue.

Now this summer I redid the carb cleaning thingy and replaced 2 orings that were damaged on the red tube and still it's a no go. So you see why I'm starting to look elsewhere for the cause because I've put in lots of time and effort on the carb and absolutely nothing changes.