T210 blade removal

Size of the air line makes little difference, it’s the size of the connector which you need to look at when using the bigger guns. Most small engine shops use 1/4” quick disconnects, but as Star said you must use 3/8” connectors when running 3/4” or 1” impact guns.
 
The problem arises as the Milton M 1/4 NPT style fittings has only a 3/16 through hole as where the Milton V 1/4 NPT style fittings has a 17/64-9/32 through hole. I know 3/32 does not sound like a lot until you at the actual holes compare side by side.

Now the Aircat 1150K sips air at 8 cfm but using the M style plugs and couplers on a 100 ft run the air line set could not keep up with even the 8 cfm demand. Once I changed over to the V style the cfm supplied was more than enough even at the end of a 100 ft 3/8" line. Also you must make the even the air line fittings are as large as possible. I have found some 3/8 air line end fittings to be overly restrictive.
 
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Just did annual maint on a cub cadet Z that was serviced by the dealer last year. Had to almost destroy the oil filter to get it loose. Spark plugs were in WAY to tight. Washers on plugs were smashed way too flat. Impact finally got the blade nuts off but had to replace the nuts because the threads were almost stripped. Didn't try to remove the drain plug as I use an extractor. Great job by the professionals at the dealer.
 
Curt1940 said:
Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.

Curt
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I get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
 
Most of the homeowner mowers use some type of star center so they are not self tightening. When a cust hits something and twists the blade on the star and makes it super tight it's going to get a new spindle and blade so I don't care how bad the impact tears it up getting it off. In the last 5 years or so I haven't had a blade nut or bolt the impact couldn't take ooff. Even the self tightening ones. 3/8" air line, high flow couplers, 150 psi, 1/2" IR2235 impact.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
I get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
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When you know what you are doing and have the right equipment, it really don't take an hour. Maybe 5-10 minutes per spindle.
Hammermechanicman said:
Most of the homeowner mowers use some type of star center so they are not self tightening. When a cust hits something and twists the blade on the star and makes it super tight it's going to get a new spindle and blade so I don't care how bad the impact tears it up getting it off. In the last 5 years or so I haven't had a blade nut or bolt the impact couldn't take ooff. Even the self tightening ones. 3/8" air line, high flow couplers, 150 psi, 1/2" IR2235 impact.
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Yes homeowners are bad about not getting the blades mounted correctly which lead to problems that must be corrected.

Boy that Ingersoll Rand is air hungry @ 24cfm and a lot noisier @ 98dB vs the Aircat @ 8cfm and 86 db. Maybe is why I can use my Aircat with 10 cu ft air tank to remove screws in the field. And the Aircat is so much easier on the ears both in the shop and for the neighbors.
 
I have the battery HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and a 3/8 Milwaukee impact that handles the day to day stuff. I only bust out the IR air gun for the stupid tight type stuff. If the HF doesn't take it off in 10 seconds I get the IR. Usually takes longer to get it out and hookup the air line than it takes to solve the problem.
 
Hammermechanicman said:
I have the battery HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and a 3/8 Milwaukee impact that handles the day to day stuff. I only bust out the IR air gun for the stupid tight type stuff. If the HF doesn't take it off in 10 seconds I get the IR. Usually takes longer to get it out and hookup the air line than it takes to solve the problem.
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Kinda wish I had funds available to have extra equipment but I have try to buy what works all around here. And yes most times it takes longer to get things out then it take to resolve a problem.

It sorta like needing to crimp a battery cable. It takes time to get the crimper out and back up which is only needed for less a minute crimping operation.
 
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