Synthetic oil

In speaking on the phone directly to a Shell Rotella tech, he advised that for my solid lifter cam Kawasaki the Rotella T-4 had the most additives best suited for my application.

And T-4 is the only one that is JASO approved, which is what the Kawasaki manual recommends, a JASO approved oil.
 
:thumbsup:
I may use rotella in my next Kawasaki change, 5 more hours.

I'll blame you if it blows up Buddy.
:P :laughing:
 
Look on any oil you're buying for the API spec in the little circle sunburst deal. If it's SM it has reduced anti wear additives, if it's SN or SN+ (plus) it has almost none of the barrier lube additives the older and air cooled motors need to survive. If it is not listed I'd keep looking for something else.
 
I ran it all this year & now did oil & filter change using it again, & I'm gonna start using it in my old B&S push mower.

Scrub- sure blame me.

PS: On the back or bottom of the jug is the date it was bottled, I try & get the newest date available.
 
7394 said:
I ran it all this year & now did oil & filter change using it again, & I'm gonna start using it in my old B&S push mower.

Scrub- sure blame me.

PS: On the back or bottom of the jug is the date it was bottled, I try & get the newest date available.
Click to expand...

Wow, I had no idea they (or at least shell) put dates on The containers:thumbsup:
 
Most of the oils I use do have dates on the back or bottom or even front, depending on brand.

After 5 years the additives are about depleted even if jug has never been opened. Like milk, I always look.

So whatever oil you choose, I would just say to not get El-cheap-o oil.
 
Rule 1: Any oil is better than no oil.

Rule 2: The right kind of oil is better than the wrong kind.

Rule 3: The right amount of oil is better than the wrong amount.

Rule 4: Fresh oil is better than old oil.

Rule 5: ?
 
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