stx46 won't start; solenoid to starter whirs

sam452

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My older Deere started getting electrical problems last season by quitting far away. It would appear that jiggling the battery cable would get it to kick off and start.

Reading up in the parts manual it appears there is a solenoid in between the battery and the starter. I can confirm the battery has 12+ volts in it. When I get good contact on the battery, the starter whirs, but not a starting sound I'm used to.

Jiggling the battery cable as before, I get sparks and the solenoid under the crotch of the seat makes contact noise. But this time the starter neither whirs nor starts.

Help explain what these noises mean and if I should replace my solenoid as well? thanx, sam
 

Rivets

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Try these checks first.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

sam452

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Thank you for your steps. I apologize for the length of time as I acquired a voltmeter and found a way to test the solenoid after removing the battery.

Voltage at battery: 12.3v
V at solenoid big bolts: 12.3v
V at solenoid with switch turned on:
Small post 1 Small post 2
Large post 1 12.1 12.1
Large post 2 12.1 0

As for what I believe to be the starter, the red was attached to the red connector and the black was attached to the engine block
V at *starter* = 0

There are no other accessible points to test. Here's a narrative of other indictors. In my post, when trying to start the solenoid click like a fast ratchet. Sometimes it starts. At the beginning of this season, I replaced the battery cable to the solenoid. It started up normally and I ran two sessions of mowing. The third started up normally, but one minute into mowing it started cutting out like the spark plug wire was being cut. It started again, but cut out again. Now it only does the ratchet sound from the solenoid.

I've replaced the solenoid and that's made no difference. Based on the steps above, it appears my wiring harness from back to front are suspect. And now here's my current Q: The cable to the starter is housed in a track underneath the footplate. Looking carefully, it appears that the track forms the support for the footplate which is the same piece of metal that the engine is supporting. The track appears to be on top of the transmission so it appears that I have to disassemble the whole tractor to view whats in this channel for the wiring? The JD manual doesn't discuss this. It could be starter or the cable.

I've searched the forum fo how to expose or replace that cable. How should I get a look-see at that cable in the track?, thanx, sam
 

ILENGINE

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The wire itself usually doesn't cause problems. From your description, you either have a bad connection between the battery and the starter, or a bad connection of the ground wire at the engine block,frame, or at the negative terminal of the battery. Or the battery is going bad, and the voltage is dropping. a bad starter could cause excessive amp draw and cause the solenoid to chatter.
 

Rivets

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What was your readings in step three again, I am confused.
 

sam452

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Yes, the spacing I used to layout step 3 and 4 were removed. This experiment will test the layout.
This user does not have permission to use the HTML BB code.

How would I test step six? I don't understand how.

Thinking on my earlier post, I fashioned a cable from the solenoid to the starter and it started leading me to assume the cable is the problem. Now it may not be the cable because replacing the cable to the battery seemed to be the issue and I mowed twice before it cut out which leads me to assume there's another cause. I will attempt to mow this a.m. before it rains with this hot-wired cable to see if it continues to run.
 

Rivets

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For test six, you are using a VOM to make sure dirt and corrosion have not caused a problem with any grounds on the engine and frame. Again I ask, what is the readings for step three, your table makes no sense to me.
 
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