Tommyb2401
Forum Newbie
Got a bg55 that won’t start. Was running rough but would run then nothing I have changed the carburetor the fuel lines and filter, the coil and plug also cleaned the spark arrestor. I’m lost
Stihl bg55 blower
- Thread starter Tommyb2401
- Start date
olgeezershonda
Well-Known Member
You've mentioned it was running rough, now won't start, plus you've changed the carb. Perhaps the new carb needs adjustment. Also check the fuel lines, perhaps they were reinstalled incorrectly.
As far as tuning a carb goes I've found this to be a good how-to. Stihl carb adjustment
As far as tuning a carb goes I've found this to be a good how-to. Stihl carb adjustment
Did you replace the cylinder and piston as well. Sounds like that is about all you missed. What you have to have to run is fuel fire and compression at the right time. Sounds like you have the first two how about the last one compression. Quit throwing parts at it and hope you find the right one. Diagnose the problem, 95% of any repair.There are other things that can stop a 2 stroke from running like air leaks.Funny thing about a 2 stroke is it actually has two parts to the engine to get it to run. The bottom end is a pump and the top end is the engine. If the bottom end is not sealed and can draw mixed fuel and air into the crankcase vie the carb. and pump it to the cylinder and piston it will not run properly or at all . Air leaks like seal, gaskets and sealer in the joints in the engine. Do not run a two stroke engine that is not running right the only lubrication it gets is in the mixed fuel it gets and if it is running lean it is not getting proper lubrication. Results is a scored cylinder and piston and low compression. Just trying to get you to realize there is more to repairing any kind of equipment than changing parts. If that is what we who actually do this for a living we would not be in business very long.
PTmowerMech
Lawn Addict
How much compression does it have?
Tommyb2401
Forum Newbie
Tommyb2401
Forum Newbie
See I have don’t a compression test and was reading normal numbers. I’m not throwing parts at it I’m doing process of elimination. No I don’t do this for a living no do I want to but I don’t want to pay the guys like you that do it for a living 80 an hour for labor either. So here I am asking on a form for help not a lecture. But I will take what you said and learn from it.
Guys like me could probably have just pulled the starter rope and told you whether or not it was worth fixing. And might have saved you money in the long run.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Like hlw49 above.
Some one walks through the gate and asks if it is worth fixing I give the starter a couple of pulls with the "calibrated elbow" .
If it feels good then it is on with the spark tester & out with the can of carb spray
no spark or spark & no start then it is "Probably not " but will cost you $ 72 + parts if I go any further.
Most will give me the go ahead so it gets a job ticket and gets a full evaluation
If unable to fix it I charge 1/2 hour which is what it costs to do a compression test , pull the muffler to check the piston & bore then pull the starter off to disconnect the kill wire to check the magneto .
A big box store will make you give them $ 75 to $ 120 non refundable deposit before they write a job card for it .
You really need to find an independent repair shop, the kind that actually survives on repairing equipment & selling refurbished gear, not one that uses the workshop as a new products sales incentive .
A little rule of thumb trick the previous owner used was to grab the starter handle with the tool on the ground and pull the handle up quickly.
Tool comes with it then it was worth quoting on
rope pulled out fully then into the scrap bin
Some one walks through the gate and asks if it is worth fixing I give the starter a couple of pulls with the "calibrated elbow" .
If it feels good then it is on with the spark tester & out with the can of carb spray
no spark or spark & no start then it is "Probably not " but will cost you $ 72 + parts if I go any further.
Most will give me the go ahead so it gets a job ticket and gets a full evaluation
If unable to fix it I charge 1/2 hour which is what it costs to do a compression test , pull the muffler to check the piston & bore then pull the starter off to disconnect the kill wire to check the magneto .
A big box store will make you give them $ 75 to $ 120 non refundable deposit before they write a job card for it .
You really need to find an independent repair shop, the kind that actually survives on repairing equipment & selling refurbished gear, not one that uses the workshop as a new products sales incentive .
A little rule of thumb trick the previous owner used was to grab the starter handle with the tool on the ground and pull the handle up quickly.
Tool comes with it then it was worth quoting on
rope pulled out fully then into the scrap bin
PTmowerMech
Lawn Addict
Your initial post didn't give much information to really diagnose the problem. So the advice and questions was simply to get more information, to steer you in the right direction.
For any tech, "what's the problem" is our initial question we all ask ourselves. What are the symptoms is the next. And so forth and so on. Until the culprit is narrowed down to the problem.
When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?
You can either spend the money on a shop to diagnose the blower. Or spend the money on the tools needed to diagnose it.
Or spend the money on a new or used one.
Either way, it's mechanical. And not going to last forever. So we're not trying to lecture you. Just get all the information we need to diagnose, sight unseen, your equipment through an online forum.