Starting Problem

[medic2575]

Hello guys. I have a strange (to me) problem that has me stumped. I bought a John Deere Z 245 zero turn mower off a guy that would turn over but won't start. He had replaced the carb with a new one, new fuel pump with new fuel lines and cleaned the fuel tank. It will start and run on starting fluid as long as you keep spraying starting fluid it or the breather housing. I personally went back starting at the fuel tank and tracked fuel from the tank, visually through the fuel filter and assured positive fuel output threw the fuel pump to the inlet on the carb. I removed the carb and fuel is in the bowl and has made it all throughout the carb. The engine is evidently not pulling fuel through the intake and into the combustion chamber. My question is could the rings be wiped out causing the piston ring cylinder wall interface to be inadequate in causing an adequate negative pressure environment inside the combustion chamber to draw the fuel in? I may be way off base here but I have reached the limits of my knowledge and ability here. Any guidance or ideas on what could be causing this thing not to run would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Engine info:
Briggs twin cylinder
Model 44L777
Type: 0144 G1

 

[Mikel1]

Is fuel solenoid working?

 

[medic2575]

I'm sorry. I failed to mention that I had checked that also. It clicks upon turning the key on. It's also brand new (I know new stuff could be defective). Should I remove it and visually test it as well as check for adequate voltage at the plug that energizes the fuel solenoid, or is the sound of it clicking sufficent enough? Thank you for the response.

 

[Mikel1]

The click is usually good, wouldn't hurt to make sure though. I do wonder if the compression is low though. I like the leak down tester(most people don't have one) but compression tester might give some info from one cylinder to the other. Have you checked the valves?

 

[Rivets]

Check your ground connections. Battery to ground, solenoid to ground and starter to ground. Make sure connections are clean and tight.

 

[medic2575]

I do not have a leak down tester but I do have a compression tester and will perform this test tomorrow. Checking valve adjustment makes sense. I will check this also. Rivets, I also had to replace the positive battery cable that runs from the positive side of the battery to the solenoid and found that the original solenoid plastic that was under each post were melted so I replaced the solenoid. It appears that someone had done some crappy wiring repairs at the battery solenoid area. The cable I replaced was bare and almost broken through. Thank you guys for your responses. I will update when I complete these.