I washed my 44" Zero turn Simplicity with an 18HP Kohler engine and after I was done it will not start. The hour meter comes on and the mower deck clicks when engaged but nothing else happens. Is there a fuse somewhere?? any suggestions?
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Export threadAre you sure that you have done each of these. Brakes are set, handles are out, and PTO off. If it still does not start, follow this procedure. I know that it is for a tractor, but with a couple of tweaks it will work on a Z. Also, this manual will show you the safety switches and circuit breaker so you can test each of them. Make sure all connections are tight and clean.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/fmlouMW.RFzXFix2.pdf
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/fmlouMW.RFzXFix2.pdf
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I have the exact same problem only not after washing my mower (Champion w/ 44" deck 2690449). I just finished cutting and turned the engine off (20hp Kohler) to clean the mower with compressed air. When i tried to restart it to move it into the garage the starter wouldn't turn. I could only hear the fuel relay click. I checked battery voltage (full charge) and all wiring connections. When i turned key to start I got 12 volts on the circuit going to the positive terminal on the solenoid but nothing (0 volts) in the cable going from the solenoid to the starter. There was 12.3 V on the hot side of the solenoid from the battery. I replaced the solenoid but got same result. Nothing in the cable going to starter from solenoid when key turned to start. Brakes and levers all in correct position. Operator in seat and still nothing.
What solved the problem for the original post in this thread?
What solved the problem for the original post in this thread?
Last edited:
bertsmobile1
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The solenoid is a simple relay.
It needs a 12V ( some times less ) + signal and an earth.
If it has 2 small terminals , one is + and one is -.
If it has only 1 small terminal then that is +12V and it gets the earth contact through the base.
All those PIA safety switches & interlocks control the power &/or earth to those wires.
Generally the PTO , Brake & reverse safety switches control the +12V feed to the starter.
Start from the "S" terminal ( start or solenoid ) on the ignition switch and follow the wires through.
Verify the solenoid by energising the small terminal(s ), they are not polarity sensitive.
Verify the ignition switch by running a jumper ( shoved in the back of the terminal ) directly to the solenoid .
It needs a 12V ( some times less ) + signal and an earth.
If it has 2 small terminals , one is + and one is -.
If it has only 1 small terminal then that is +12V and it gets the earth contact through the base.
All those PIA safety switches & interlocks control the power &/or earth to those wires.
Generally the PTO , Brake & reverse safety switches control the +12V feed to the starter.
Start from the "S" terminal ( start or solenoid ) on the ignition switch and follow the wires through.
Verify the solenoid by energising the small terminal(s ), they are not polarity sensitive.
Verify the ignition switch by running a jumper ( shoved in the back of the terminal ) directly to the solenoid .
mechanic mark
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- Jul 15, 2013
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https://www.simplicitymfg.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?search=1694454 Just information, follow experts posts above advice, let us know what you find, thanks. Reminder, never use water on or around engine or electrical components.
Try re-setting 20 amp circuit breaker, look in parts manual pages 28 & 29 item 12.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/lfitDGQ.UFzXFix2.pdf see page 58 in wiring diagram, circuit breaker is located between ignition switch & starter solenoid.
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Try re-setting 20 amp circuit breaker, look in parts manual pages 28 & 29 item 12.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/lfitDGQ.UFzXFix2.pdf see page 58 in wiring diagram, circuit breaker is located between ignition switch & starter solenoid.
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Last edited:
bertsmobile1
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And if you need to wash, do it with the engine running and then leave it running for 10 minutes or so before switching off so it can dry off.
Never use water on top of the deck, use air as water soaks the grass and makes it harder to remove.
Many decks , particularly AYP use vent holes around the spindle to control air flow under the deck and the wet grass blocks them off.
Leaf blowers are good, compressed air with a log (3' to 4') duster gun is better.
If you use the wash port for the underside of the deck, same story. Wash out over grass so you don't make a mess then drive over a hard ( & hot is better ) surface and leave the mower running with the blades spinning for a good 10 minutes to dry off.
Never use water on top of the deck, use air as water soaks the grass and makes it harder to remove.
Many decks , particularly AYP use vent holes around the spindle to control air flow under the deck and the wet grass blocks them off.
Leaf blowers are good, compressed air with a log (3' to 4') duster gun is better.
If you use the wash port for the underside of the deck, same story. Wash out over grass so you don't make a mess then drive over a hard ( & hot is better ) surface and leave the mower running with the blades spinning for a good 10 minutes to dry off.
The solenoid is a simple relay.
It needs a 12V ( some times less ) + signal and an earth.
If it has 2 small terminals , one is + and one is -.
If it has only 1 small terminal then that is +12V and it gets the earth contact through the base.
All those PIA safety switches & interlocks control the power &/or earth to those wires.
Generally the PTO , Brake & reverse safety switches control the +12V feed to the starter.
Start from the "S" terminal ( start or solenoid ) on the ignition switch and follow the wires through.
Verify the solenoid by energising the small terminal(s ), they are not polarity sensitive.
Verify the ignition switch by running a jumper ( shoved in the back of the terminal ) directly to the solenoid .
I verified that the ignition switch and the solenoid are working properly. +12V across the 2 small terminals closes the relay. the odd thing is, when I have the + cable between the starter and the solenoid attached; when the relay closes I measure 0.0 volts on the starter cable but if I disconnect the cable I measure 12.3 V on the big post of the solenoid when the relay is energized. Also when I touch the starter cable directly to the B+ terminal on the battery I measure 0.0 V at the starter it does not turn or fire the bendix.
What would cause a fully charged battery to read 0.0V when connected to the starter? Bad battery or bad starter? I charged the battery with a CTECH smart charger overnight and it never indicated a problem with the battery (the battery is 5 years old but never had a problem with it) ...btw I only have 111 hours on the log.
bertsmobile1
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Not quite sure what you are driving at and which "starter cables" you are talking about.
To test the battery you run a pair of jumpers directly to the starter motor.
The - to a good earth near the starter ( oil drain plugs works well ) and then from the battery + directly to the + on the starter motor
It works better to connect the + first and do the earth second so you don't accidentally directly short the battery.
IF the starter turns, the battery & starter are good to go.
If not then repeat with a known good battery , works, then you battery is toast, dosn't work then the starter need work.
As for your funny readings, a direct short will cause a 0 V readings as will accidentally reading between two + terminals.
Batteries store energy or Watts if you like.
Watts are V x A .
So as the amounts of Amps the battery supplies increases the voltage it supplies these amps at decreases, what is commonly called load voltage drop.
This is why your headlamps go dim when you start your car with the lights on.
To test the battery you run a pair of jumpers directly to the starter motor.
The - to a good earth near the starter ( oil drain plugs works well ) and then from the battery + directly to the + on the starter motor
It works better to connect the + first and do the earth second so you don't accidentally directly short the battery.
IF the starter turns, the battery & starter are good to go.
If not then repeat with a known good battery , works, then you battery is toast, dosn't work then the starter need work.
As for your funny readings, a direct short will cause a 0 V readings as will accidentally reading between two + terminals.
Batteries store energy or Watts if you like.
Watts are V x A .
So as the amounts of Amps the battery supplies increases the voltage it supplies these amps at decreases, what is commonly called load voltage drop.
This is why your headlamps go dim when you start your car with the lights on.