Starter still runs after engine cranks

smira511

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Hello all,

I replaced the Kohler engine in my Gravely ZT and now when I turn the key from the off position to the next position, (before the crank position) the starter will engage the flywheel and start the engine, then disengage from the flywheel, but the starter still keeps turning.
It just does not seem right to me that the engine would start before actually turning the key all the way over to crank.
Am I missing something here?
Please help. Thanks
 

reynoldston

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Something is different in the starting system of the two engines. It sound like the problem is that the starter solenoid or switch is wired wrong ?
 

smira511

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ok, so how would i determine if the solenoid is wired incorrectly? it only has the lead to the starter, lead from the battery, (with a smaller red wire attached also), 2 small wires on a spade connector, and 1 small wire on a spade connector.
also, how could i determine if the ignition switch is wired incorrectly?
I was thinking possibly a relay, so i got a new one and that did not solve the problem. it actually starts in the run position even with all three relays removed.
the weird thing is, yesterday when i was disconnecting and reconnecting the relays, it actually started working normally. but only a few times and now it is back to cranking in the run position. nothing was changed when it worked normally other than the relays were disconnected and reconnected. but like i said, i put a new relay on and did not fix.
i am at a loss here. i don't know what else to do.

thanks
 

reynoldston

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I will do my best here to help you?? Dose the starter solenoid has 3 or 4 terminals. Two large to the battery and starter. Small terminals if 4 one to the negative circuit and one to the positive circuit and if you have three terminals the negative circuit is internal. Now if your solenoid has 4 terminals it can make a big difference as to how it is wired because it could be tripped off ether circuit. Now you are saying you have relays in the starting circuit. A relay is a electric switch which can come in three ways open or closed or both. I would think they would go to your safety switches to tell your starter if to work or not. Your Ignition switch would have a starter circuit on it. I have ran across one time that the customer installed the wrong ignition switch and the two different switched were wired different inside even thought they looked alike. Are you sure you have the right switch?
 

smira511

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thanks for all the help. the solenoid has only 2 terminals and the ones to the battery and starter. as far as the ignition switch goes, it was replaced by my uncle last year while i was in Iraq, so i'm not exactly for sure if it is the right one. but, it was working correctly after he replaced it. the problem only started when i replaced the engine. when i installed the new engine, the engine connector did not match up with the wiring harness. i had to move one wire over to the other side to get the plug to connect. but, the wire that i moved is connected to the same wire it was connected to when the old engine was installed. i think i must have a wire crossed somewhere, but i have no clue where as all the wires match up exactly to the same colors as they were before the new engine was installed.
but what could make it crank with all the relays removed? it's almost as if there is a wire going straight from the battery to the "on" position in the ignition switch therefore bypassing all the relays. it also will crank with the brake off.
again, thanks for your help
 

Dradis

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It sounds to me that the starter is getting power from an accessory 12v line which is always powered. This is bad because it's probably coming from a small gauge wire which will burn up under the power draw of the starter. (I jumped my starter using a 16 gauge wire just to see if it worked. Wire burned up in seconds). It may be an extreme solution, but since your mower does not match your wiring, I would rip out all of the wiring and do a simple push button start and kill switch set up.

Here's a good how to that im using http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6QV_gSwPek&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 

reynoldston

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That brings me back to what I said in my first post. The two engines are wired different. If you don't have one get yourself a multi-voltage tester. If it was me I would separate the engine wires from the chassis. Now start over again and trace where each wire goes and what it doses. I would think they are in colors but the engine and chassis may not match. Just take your time and check that each circuit does. Your tester will have a continuity tester on it to trace the circuits. You should be able to buy a multitester for less then 5 dollars from harbor freight.
 

smira511

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ok. i'll give it a try this afternoon. not real good at chasing wires, but i'll give it a try. thanks for the help. i'll let you know what i come up with
 
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