Starter problem

[rustfarmer]

I have been fighting a solenoid clicks but doesn't start issue for over a year. After clicking 5, 10 or 20 times the unit will finally crank and start right up. Replaced starter--no change. replaced battery--no change. Bypassed every safety system--no change. Added a Ford solenoid and jumpered the original solenoid--no change. Replaced the solenoid on the new starter just for grins--no change.Checked the chassis ground and thought that it might not have been perfect and seemed to help at first but turns out--no change. Replaced ignition switch--no change. Now my other Briggs mower has started doing the same thing but haven't worked on it yet. I have worked on cars and trucks for 60 years --built engines, body work, etc but this one's killing me. Ideas?

 

[txmowman]

If you work on cars, do you have a remote start button? Go directly from the battery to the starter, by-passing the mower. It's possibly a failed B+ battery cable.

 

[Bertrrr]

You have done everything I would have - Don't rule out you have replaced a component that is still the problem.

 

[rustfarmer]

If you work on cars, do you have a remote start button? Go directly from the battery to the starter, by-passing the mower. It's possibly a failed B+ battery cable.

I do have such and will try that. Thanks for your help!

You have done everything I would have - Don't rule out you have replaced a component that is still the problem.

Thanks! Very true, especially these days. I'm thinking of replacing all starter cables and wiring. It acts just like when you have a bad connection at the battery on a car.

 

[Bertrrr]

Hook up Jumper cables to a hot battery and see how it reacts

 

[bertsmobile1]

To further what Bertrrr said
Using a known goo battery jump directly from that battery to both the engine & starter + terminal
Engine cranks = starter good
Engine does not crank, remove spark plug & try again
Engine cranks fast = starter good with valve problem
engine cranks slow = internal engine problem
For this test the belts need to be off the engine pulley to isolate mower from engine
IF it checks out OK with external battery repeat the proceedure using the mowers battery ( ie bypassing mowers battery cables )
Baby steps, so do that and get back with the results

 

[rustfarmer]

To further what Bertrrr said
Using a known goo battery jump directly from that battery to both the engine & starter + terminal
Engine cranks = starter good
Engine does not crank, remove spark plug & try again
Engine cranks fast = starter good with valve problem
engine cranks slow = internal engine problem
For this test the belts need to be off the engine pulley to isolate mower from engine
IF it checks out OK with external battery repeat the proceedure using the mowers battery ( ie bypassing mowers battery cables )
Baby steps, so do that and get back with the results

Thanks for your help. Jumper cables to good battery makes no difference.

 

[Digiacomo]

I'm a new guy here, but I guess I can chime in too

I would check to see if you have a ground wire from the frame to the motor,,,,I had this happen on one of my briggs motors.......

 

[Forest#2]

What is the engine model number?

Do you have a voltmeter?

 

[StarTech]

Might be a voltage drop in the trigger lead and a helper relay might be needed. I know several JD mowers had to have this mod over the years due too long of a trigger circuit.

Especially was happening with solenoid shift starters.