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snowblower season is in full swing here a few tips for u DIYs
#1
briggs
briggs
Here is a few a tips for DIYs
I run a small engine shop in Kingston Ontario Canada and I have come across a few things that can be prevented ...Its all basic stuff that will save u money in the long run
1..when Ethanol(10% water) gas sits for more then 4 weeks it starts to separate ..Imagine what it will do over a 6 month period ..Use fresh high test gas they run better and u wont notice the price difference for the amount u use ...When u put it away in the spring u can do two things run it dry or u can put stable in it.. If u use stable run it for 5 min to get it threw the system ...If it has a fuel shut off close it ..Its also a good thing to run an inline fuel filter 90% of the repairs I get are fuel related issues
2..make sure u use the proper oil and u change it when needed ..Don't let it get black as tar and thin as water ..Its not good for the engine ..When its that thin it will not lubricate the engine properly and the engine will over heat ...On older engines I add a little Lucas oil treatment to the oil it helps lubricate the engine and gives u added protection ..Some people do this some people don't ..I do it with my $6000 race engine:thumbsup:
3..Make sure u use the proper spark plug and that's its gapped Proper ..If u use a plug that's to hot or the shank is to long u can damage the piston etc
4..If it has grease zerks grease them ,Lube the drive gears/chains ,Make sure u don't get it on the friction disc or platter because it wont drive if u do ..If u do get any on it u can use brake clean to get it off..If it has a plug in the front auger gear box remove it and put grease or heavy gear lube depending on what it calls for
5..Inspect the belts and pulleys if the belts are cracked replace them or they will fail when u don't want them to ..If there lose most machines have a tensor u can adjust or some have a cable u can adjust don't do it to tight it could case u to blow a belt or damage the tensor and bearings in the back of the bucket ..If the pulleys are rusty clean them up if there bent replace them
6..Use shear pins in the auger not nuts and bolts ..I had one come in this week that the auger and blade were all smashed and broke it was junk because they used a bolt and not a shear pin ..It cost 150 for a complete used bucket that's my cost plus install ...
there is tons more but this is the basics feel free to add more if u wish ..Oh and always make sure there is nothing that u are going to hit with the blower ..Have a safe winter
I run a small engine shop in Kingston Ontario Canada and I have come across a few things that can be prevented ...Its all basic stuff that will save u money in the long run
1..when Ethanol(10% water) gas sits for more then 4 weeks it starts to separate ..Imagine what it will do over a 6 month period ..Use fresh high test gas they run better and u wont notice the price difference for the amount u use ...When u put it away in the spring u can do two things run it dry or u can put stable in it.. If u use stable run it for 5 min to get it threw the system ...If it has a fuel shut off close it ..Its also a good thing to run an inline fuel filter 90% of the repairs I get are fuel related issues
2..make sure u use the proper oil and u change it when needed ..Don't let it get black as tar and thin as water ..Its not good for the engine ..When its that thin it will not lubricate the engine properly and the engine will over heat ...On older engines I add a little Lucas oil treatment to the oil it helps lubricate the engine and gives u added protection ..Some people do this some people don't ..I do it with my $6000 race engine:thumbsup:
3..Make sure u use the proper spark plug and that's its gapped Proper ..If u use a plug that's to hot or the shank is to long u can damage the piston etc
4..If it has grease zerks grease them ,Lube the drive gears/chains ,Make sure u don't get it on the friction disc or platter because it wont drive if u do ..If u do get any on it u can use brake clean to get it off..If it has a plug in the front auger gear box remove it and put grease or heavy gear lube depending on what it calls for
5..Inspect the belts and pulleys if the belts are cracked replace them or they will fail when u don't want them to ..If there lose most machines have a tensor u can adjust or some have a cable u can adjust don't do it to tight it could case u to blow a belt or damage the tensor and bearings in the back of the bucket ..If the pulleys are rusty clean them up if there bent replace them
6..Use shear pins in the auger not nuts and bolts ..I had one come in this week that the auger and blade were all smashed and broke it was junk because they used a bolt and not a shear pin ..It cost 150 for a complete used bucket that's my cost plus install ...
there is tons more but this is the basics feel free to add more if u wish ..Oh and always make sure there is nothing that u are going to hit with the blower ..Have a safe winter
#3
briggs
Thanks if u have thing to add to it feel free to do so
briggs
Great info, Thanks:thumbsup:
Thanks if u have thing to add to it feel free to do so
#4
S
SRJMow
S
SRJMow
Great info!
I just had my second snowstorm of the season (6 inches), first one large enough to use the blower. First was only a few inches.
One additional tip. If you live in an area where they use a lot of sand or salt try to clean up the end of the driveway first. That is where all the salt and sand is from the city plows. Then finish up the rest of the driveway or sidewalks where its nice clean fresh snow. That helps to clean off all of the sand and salt from the blower and helps to prevent rust.
I just had my second snowstorm of the season (6 inches), first one large enough to use the blower. First was only a few inches.
One additional tip. If you live in an area where they use a lot of sand or salt try to clean up the end of the driveway first. That is where all the salt and sand is from the city plows. Then finish up the rest of the driveway or sidewalks where its nice clean fresh snow. That helps to clean off all of the sand and salt from the blower and helps to prevent rust.
#5
lawn mower fanatic
Good tip! :thumbsup:
lawn mower fanatic
Great info!
I just had my second snowstorm of the season (6 inches), first one large enough to use the blower. First was only a few inches.
One additional tip. If you live in an area where they use a lot of sand or salt try to clean up the end of the driveway first. That is where all the salt and sand is from the city plows. Then finish up the rest of the driveway or sidewalks where its nice clean fresh snow. That helps to clean off all of the sand and salt from the blower and helps to prevent rust.
Good tip! :thumbsup:
#6
davbell22602
davbell22602
Make you use 5W-30 oil in your snowblower.
#7
J
Jhon
J
Jhon
My Troy Built 8 1/2 HP snow blower is about 8 to 12 years old. It has had very light use and more often than not, never left the garage during the snow season. If I had to guess, I would say that there is about 20 to 30 hours on it. The thing still looks brand new. I just ordered new belts for it in case it goes down during a snow storm I will have them readily available. I also have plenty of shear pins on hand. (got a door mat and a newspaper so far)
My question is: do you think I should change the belts now as the age might have dry rotted them, or just hang on to them I need them?
I purchased a John Deere tractor in 2007 and the next year got a set of belts for it. They are still hanging on a nail awaiting use.
My question is: do you think I should change the belts now as the age might have dry rotted them, or just hang on to them I need them?
I purchased a John Deere tractor in 2007 and the next year got a set of belts for it. They are still hanging on a nail awaiting use.
#8
sdsra
Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL
sdsra
Here is a few a tips for DIYs
I run a small engine shop in Kingston Ontario Canada and I have come across a few things that can be prevented ...Its all basic stuff that will save u money in the long run
1..when Ethanol(10% water) gas sits for more then 4 weeks it starts to separate ..Imagine what it will do over a 6 month period ..Use fresh high test gas they run better and u wont notice the price difference for the amount u use ...When u put it away in the spring u can do two things run it dry or u can put stable in it.. If u use stable run it for 5 min to get it threw the system ...If it has a fuel shut off close it ..Its also a good thing to run an inline fuel filter 90% of the repairs I get are fuel related issues
2..make sure u use the proper oil and u change it when needed ..Don't let it get black as tar and thin as water ..Its not good for the engine ..When its that thin it will not lubricate the engine properly and the engine will over heat ...On older engines I add a little Lucas oil treatment to the oil it helps lubricate the engine and gives u added protection ..Some people do this some people don't ..I do it with my $6000 race engine:thumbsup:
3..Make sure u use the proper spark plug and that's its gapped Proper ..If u use a plug that's to hot or the shank is to long u can damage the piston etc
4..If it has grease zerks grease them ,Lube the drive gears/chains ,Make sure u don't get it on the friction disc or platter because it wont drive if u do ..If u do get any on it u can use brake clean to get it off..If it has a plug in the front auger gear box remove it and put grease or heavy gear lube depending on what it calls for
5..Inspect the belts and pulleys if the belts are cracked replace them or they will fail when u don't want them to ..If there lose most machines have a tensor u can adjust or some have a cable u can adjust don't do it to tight it could case u to blow a belt or damage the tensor and bearings in the back of the bucket ..If the pulleys are rusty clean them up if there bent replace them
6..Use shear pins in the auger not nuts and bolts ..I had one come in this week that the auger and blade were all smashed and broke it was junk because they used a bolt and not a shear pin ..It cost 150 for a complete used bucket that's my cost plus install ...
there is tons more but this is the basics feel free to add more if u wish ..Oh and always make sure there is nothing that u are going to hit with the blower ..Have a safe winter
Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL
#9
Carscw
That's back when racing took more skill.
I miss the days of using full frame cars now you have to run a jig car to keep up.
There are not many tracks around that run bone stock anymore.
Carscw
Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL
That's back when racing took more skill.
I miss the days of using full frame cars now you have to run a jig car to keep up.
There are not many tracks around that run bone stock anymore.
#10
briggs
no i just use it because its good stuff i found it one day when i had my old beater truck and it had a noisy lifter put that in it worked good ...it was quit lol ...then i had a derby car that had a whipped 305 in it sounded like it was going to blow i put some in it i ran it the rest of season and won 3 times lol and i drive the guts out of them ...So now i use it in all my stuff my blazer has 260k on it and dose not make a noise at all its a 99 and has had it added every oil change ..And i use it in my race engine with royal purple race oil works awesome but i use castrol oil at my shop in all the EQ we service and of course Lucaus :thumbsup: works good ads a little more viscosity to the oil and yes i use 5w30 lol ..I used to use sae 30 if it said to do so but try to pull start that in the dead cold pull your guts out thats even if u could get it to roll over with out the blower moving around lol ...Got sick of that 5 30 is the way to go
briggs
Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL
no i just use it because its good stuff i found it one day when i had my old beater truck and it had a noisy lifter put that in it worked good ...it was quit lol ...then i had a derby car that had a whipped 305 in it sounded like it was going to blow i put some in it i ran it the rest of season and won 3 times lol and i drive the guts out of them ...So now i use it in all my stuff my blazer has 260k on it and dose not make a noise at all its a 99 and has had it added every oil change ..And i use it in my race engine with royal purple race oil works awesome but i use castrol oil at my shop in all the EQ we service and of course Lucaus :thumbsup: works good ads a little more viscosity to the oil and yes i use 5w30 lol ..I used to use sae 30 if it said to do so but try to pull start that in the dead cold pull your guts out thats even if u could get it to roll over with out the blower moving around lol ...Got sick of that 5 30 is the way to go
#11
briggs
yea me to it was cheaper thats for sure ..Last one i built was my pro street vega the frame cost more then the dam car lol 4g with out diff
briggs
That's back when racing took more skill.
I miss the days of using full frame cars now you have to run a jig car to keep up.
There are not many tracks around that run bone stock anymore.
yea me to it was cheaper thats for sure ..Last one i built was my pro street vega the frame cost more then the dam car lol 4g with out diff
#12
S
SRJMow
I had a similar question about my snow blower. It's only 3-4 years old, but gets more use on average than your blower. Probably already has the same hours as yours or slightly more. The auger cable adjustment screw tends to loosen up fairly easily over time and I had to adjust it according to the owners manual specs in order to engage the auger properly. At the same time I decided to check on the belts just to make sure they did not get worn from the slippage. They appeared in great shape and everything was lined up properly, so I will not be changing them. But like you, I also wondered if there was a point at which it would be best to change them due to age, if not usage.
I think after ten years I may replace them even if they look good, but perhaps that is not necessary? The manual says to replace if worn or if cracks are showing.
Hopefully one of the more expert commentators will chime in as I am a real newbie in regards to snow blowers, and this thread is about maintenance tips.
S
SRJMow
My Troy Built 8 1/2 HP snow blower is about 8 to 12 years old. It has had very light use and more often than not, never left the garage during the snow season. If I had to guess, I would say that there is about 20 to 30 hours on it. The thing still looks brand new. I just ordered new belts for it in case it goes down during a snow storm I will have them readily available. I also have plenty of shear pins on hand. (got a door mat and a newspaper so far)
My question is: do you think I should change the belts now as the age might have dry rotted them, or just hang on to them I need them?
I purchased a John Deere tractor in 2007 and the next year got a set of belts for it. They are still hanging on a nail awaiting use.
I had a similar question about my snow blower. It's only 3-4 years old, but gets more use on average than your blower. Probably already has the same hours as yours or slightly more. The auger cable adjustment screw tends to loosen up fairly easily over time and I had to adjust it according to the owners manual specs in order to engage the auger properly. At the same time I decided to check on the belts just to make sure they did not get worn from the slippage. They appeared in great shape and everything was lined up properly, so I will not be changing them. But like you, I also wondered if there was a point at which it would be best to change them due to age, if not usage.
I think after ten years I may replace them even if they look good, but perhaps that is not necessary? The manual says to replace if worn or if cracks are showing.
Hopefully one of the more expert commentators will chime in as I am a real newbie in regards to snow blowers, and this thread is about maintenance tips.
#13
J
Jhon
Well, I ordered the two belts last week just in case. Believe it or not, the cheapest price on got (For OEM) was directly from MDT. Now I will have them in case they go bad. Although it will be a pain to replace them in the middle of a storm, at least I will have the parts on hand.
I only have this winter and two more before I am off to the sunshine state. Hopefully when I sell the blower, I will be throwing in two new belts.
But, if I get the chance. I will take off the cover and give them a visual inspection. I just don't have the energy I had in my youth.
Oh, and in Jersey today, it almost hit 70. Pretty much the same for tomorrow. I hope to get the last of the leaves.
J
Jhon
I had a similar question about my snow blower. It's only 3-4 years old, but gets more use on average than your blower. Probably already has the same hours as yours or slightly more. The auger cable adjustment screw tends to loosen up fairly easily over time and I had to adjust it according to the owners manual specs in order to engage the auger properly. At the same time I decided to check on the belts just to make sure they did not get worn from the slippage. They appeared in great shape and everything was lined up properly, so I will not be changing them. But like you, I also wondered if there was a point at which it would be best to change them due to age, if not usage.
I think after ten years I may replace them even if they look good, but perhaps that is not necessary? The manual says to replace if worn or if cracks are showing.
Hopefully one of the more expert commentators will chime in as I am a real newbie in regards to snow blowers, and this thread is about maintenance tips.
Well, I ordered the two belts last week just in case. Believe it or not, the cheapest price on got (For OEM) was directly from MDT. Now I will have them in case they go bad. Although it will be a pain to replace them in the middle of a storm, at least I will have the parts on hand.
I only have this winter and two more before I am off to the sunshine state. Hopefully when I sell the blower, I will be throwing in two new belts.
But, if I get the chance. I will take off the cover and give them a visual inspection. I just don't have the energy I had in my youth.
Oh, and in Jersey today, it almost hit 70. Pretty much the same for tomorrow. I hope to get the last of the leaves.
#14
S
SRJMow
I did a little more research and found out that the auger belt is the most likely belt to break. Although if you keep it properly adjusted it can last a long time. So you may be good for the next several winters given the low amount of usage that you have on your blower. The drive belt undergoes less strain and can sometimes last the life of the blower if properly maintained. Given this information (I am assuming its correct) I will probably order a backup auger belt and not bother ordering a drive belt unless it starts to show signs of wear. Many auger belts have Kevlar on the outside and from what I gather the inside portion of the belt is most likely to wear out first. So when you inspect the belt pay particular attention to that part of the belt. I also heard it is very important to get the OEM belt that came with the machine or else the belt could wear out fairly quickly. Looks like that is what you did.
It warmed up quite a bit here in Connecticut, but nowhere near 70. A couple more warm days, and then the cold comes back. Supposedly January may start out quite cold, and could be favorable for east coast storms due to a potential blocking pattern setting up. So I am making sure that my machine will be up to the task, if needed. I enjoy all four seasons, so I will be staying in the Northeast. But I wish you the best when you head down to Florida in a few years. My brother spends half the year down there, and he loves it.
S
SRJMow
Well, I ordered the two belts last week just in case. Believe it or not, the cheapest price on got (For OEM) was directly from MDT. Now I will have them in case they go bad. Although it will be a pain to replace them in the middle of a storm, at least I will have the parts on hand.
I only have this winter and two more before I am off to the sunshine state. Hopefully when I sell the blower, I will be throwing in two new belts.
But, if I get the chance. I will take off the cover and give them a visual inspection. I just don't have the energy I had in my youth.
Oh, and in Jersey today, it almost hit 70. Pretty much the same for tomorrow. I hope to get the last of the leaves.
I did a little more research and found out that the auger belt is the most likely belt to break. Although if you keep it properly adjusted it can last a long time. So you may be good for the next several winters given the low amount of usage that you have on your blower. The drive belt undergoes less strain and can sometimes last the life of the blower if properly maintained. Given this information (I am assuming its correct) I will probably order a backup auger belt and not bother ordering a drive belt unless it starts to show signs of wear. Many auger belts have Kevlar on the outside and from what I gather the inside portion of the belt is most likely to wear out first. So when you inspect the belt pay particular attention to that part of the belt. I also heard it is very important to get the OEM belt that came with the machine or else the belt could wear out fairly quickly. Looks like that is what you did.
It warmed up quite a bit here in Connecticut, but nowhere near 70. A couple more warm days, and then the cold comes back. Supposedly January may start out quite cold, and could be favorable for east coast storms due to a potential blocking pattern setting up. So I am making sure that my machine will be up to the task, if needed. I enjoy all four seasons, so I will be staying in the Northeast. But I wish you the best when you head down to Florida in a few years. My brother spends half the year down there, and he loves it.
#15
J
Jhon
Yes, I bought OEM. I am usually a cheapskate and get knockoffs, but for certain things I buy the OEM.
I did not notice you were from CT, I was born and raised in Stratford.
J
Jhon
I did a little more research and found out that the auger belt is the most likely belt to break. Although if you keep it properly adjusted it can last a long time. So you may be good for the next several winters given the low amount of usage that you have on your blower. The drive belt undergoes less strain and can sometimes last the life of the blower if properly maintained. Given this information (I am assuming its correct) I will probably order a backup auger belt and not bother ordering a drive belt unless it starts to show signs of wear. Many auger belts have Kevlar on the outside and from what I gather the inside portion of the belt is most likely to wear out first. So when you inspect the belt pay particular attention to that part of the belt. I also heard it is very important to get the OEM belt that came with the machine or else the belt could wear out fairly quickly. Looks like that is what you did.
It warmed up quite a bit here in Connecticut, but nowhere near 70. A couple more warm days, and then the cold comes back. Supposedly January may start out quite cold, and could be favorable for east coast storms due to a potential blocking pattern setting up. So I am making sure that my machine will be up to the task, if needed. I enjoy all four seasons, so I will be staying in the Northeast. But I wish you the best when you head down to Florida in a few years. My brother spends half the year down there, and he loves it.
Yes, I bought OEM. I am usually a cheapskate and get knockoffs, but for certain things I buy the OEM.
I did not notice you were from CT, I was born and raised in Stratford.
#16
OUTDOOR CONCEPTS
OUTDOOR CONCEPTS
Carburetor issues are our biggest problem. We find if you add a bit of fuel additive to whatever is left at the end of the season helps a ton! Also please don't leave your float bowl full of fuel for 8 months out of the year. Nothing good happens when gas and gaskets hang out together for that long.
Tons of good advice here, you guys are a great source!:thumbsup:
Tons of good advice here, you guys are a great source!:thumbsup:
#17
Kiss4aFrog
If you're asking that question then it's likely a good time to do them. Belts are always a good thing to do in the off season before you need them. It's too late when it brakes in the middle of your driveway with 18" on the ground and more in the forecast. If you're lucky you have a heated garage, I'm not lucky so I try to do all the maintenance I can in summer. It's also better to not need it right away in case you go in there and find something else needing attention.
Another good maint tip is pull your wheels yearly and apply a little grease to the shaft before you reinstall them. Same with greasing or oiling the augers. Pull the shear pins and get some lube in there and make sure the auger is still "free" on the shaft. You don't want to find out in a few years you have a flat and now you can't get the wheel off the axle. Or you just broke the augers gear box because the auger was rusted tight to the shaft and couldn't break a shear pin if it wanted to. I just ended up having to pull a transmission apart to get the axle out to get it on a press to get a wheel off :thumbdown:
Kiss4aFrog
My question is: do you think I should change the belts now as the age might have dry rotted them, or just hang on to them I need them?
If you're asking that question then it's likely a good time to do them. Belts are always a good thing to do in the off season before you need them. It's too late when it brakes in the middle of your driveway with 18" on the ground and more in the forecast. If you're lucky you have a heated garage, I'm not lucky so I try to do all the maintenance I can in summer. It's also better to not need it right away in case you go in there and find something else needing attention.
Another good maint tip is pull your wheels yearly and apply a little grease to the shaft before you reinstall them. Same with greasing or oiling the augers. Pull the shear pins and get some lube in there and make sure the auger is still "free" on the shaft. You don't want to find out in a few years you have a flat and now you can't get the wheel off the axle. Or you just broke the augers gear box because the auger was rusted tight to the shaft and couldn't break a shear pin if it wanted to. I just ended up having to pull a transmission apart to get the axle out to get it on a press to get a wheel off :thumbdown: