snowblower season is in full swing here a few tips for u DIYs

[briggs]

Here is a few a tips for DIYs


I run a small engine shop in Kingston Ontario Canada and I have come across a few things that can be prevented ...Its all basic stuff that will save u money in the long run


1..when Ethanol(10% water) gas sits for more then 4 weeks it starts to separate ..Imagine what it will do over a 6 month period ..Use fresh high test gas they run better and u wont notice the price difference for the amount u use ...When u put it away in the spring u can do two things run it dry or u can put stable in it.. If u use stable run it for 5 min to get it threw the system ...If it has a fuel shut off close it ..Its also a good thing to run an inline fuel filter 90% of the repairs I get are fuel related issues

2..make sure u use the proper oil and u change it when needed ..Don't let it get black as tar and thin as water ..Its not good for the engine ..When its that thin it will not lubricate the engine properly and the engine will over heat ...On older engines I add a little Lucas oil treatment to the oil it helps lubricate the engine and gives u added protection ..Some people do this some people don't ..I do it with my $6000 race engine:thumbsup:


3..Make sure u use the proper spark plug and that's its gapped Proper ..If u use a plug that's to hot or the shank is to long u can damage the piston etc


4..If it has grease zerks grease them ,Lube the drive gears/chains ,Make sure u don't get it on the friction disc or platter because it wont drive if u do ..If u do get any on it u can use brake clean to get it off..If it has a plug in the front auger gear box remove it and put grease or heavy gear lube depending on what it calls for


5..Inspect the belts and pulleys if the belts are cracked replace them or they will fail when u don't want them to ..If there lose most machines have a tensor u can adjust or some have a cable u can adjust don't do it to tight it could case u to blow a belt or damage the tensor and bearings in the back of the bucket ..If the pulleys are rusty clean them up if there bent replace them

6..Use shear pins in the auger not nuts and bolts ..I had one come in this week that the auger and blade were all smashed and broke it was junk because they used a bolt and not a shear pin ..It cost 150 for a complete used bucket that's my cost plus install ...

there is tons more but this is the basics feel free to add more if u wish ..Oh and always make sure there is nothing that u are going to hit with the blower ..Have a safe winter

 

[mowerman05]

Great info, Thanks:thumbsup:

 

[briggs]

Great info, Thanks:thumbsup:

Thanks if u have thing to add to it feel free to do so

 

[SRJMow]

Great info!

I just had my second snowstorm of the season (6 inches), first one large enough to use the blower. First was only a few inches.

One additional tip. If you live in an area where they use a lot of sand or salt try to clean up the end of the driveway first. That is where all the salt and sand is from the city plows. Then finish up the rest of the driveway or sidewalks where its nice clean fresh snow. That helps to clean off all of the sand and salt from the blower and helps to prevent rust.

 

[lawn mower fanatic]

Great info!

I just had my second snowstorm of the season (6 inches), first one large enough to use the blower. First was only a few inches.

One additional tip. If you live in an area where they use a lot of sand or salt try to clean up the end of the driveway first. That is where all the salt and sand is from the city plows. Then finish up the rest of the driveway or sidewalks where its nice clean fresh snow. That helps to clean off all of the sand and salt from the blower and helps to prevent rust.

Good tip! :thumbsup:

 

[davbell22602]

Make you use 5W-30 oil in your snowblower.

 

[Jhon]

My Troy Built 8 1/2 HP snow blower is about 8 to 12 years old. It has had very light use and more often than not, never left the garage during the snow season. If I had to guess, I would say that there is about 20 to 30 hours on it. The thing still looks brand new. I just ordered new belts for it in case it goes down during a snow storm I will have them readily available. I also have plenty of shear pins on hand. (got a door mat and a newspaper so far)
My question is: do you think I should change the belts now as the age might have dry rotted them, or just hang on to them I need them?

I purchased a John Deere tractor in 2007 and the next year got a set of belts for it. They are still hanging on a nail awaiting use.

 

[sdsra]

Here is a few a tips for DIYs


I run a small engine shop in Kingston Ontario Canada and I have come across a few things that can be prevented ...Its all basic stuff that will save u money in the long run


1..when Ethanol(10% water) gas sits for more then 4 weeks it starts to separate ..Imagine what it will do over a 6 month period ..Use fresh high test gas they run better and u wont notice the price difference for the amount u use ...When u put it away in the spring u can do two things run it dry or u can put stable in it.. If u use stable run it for 5 min to get it threw the system ...If it has a fuel shut off close it ..Its also a good thing to run an inline fuel filter 90% of the repairs I get are fuel related issues

2..make sure u use the proper oil and u change it when needed ..Don't let it get black as tar and thin as water ..Its not good for the engine ..When its that thin it will not lubricate the engine properly and the engine will over heat ...On older engines I add a little Lucas oil treatment to the oil it helps lubricate the engine and gives u added protection ..Some people do this some people don't ..I do it with my $6000 race engine:thumbsup:


3..Make sure u use the proper spark plug and that's its gapped Proper ..If u use a plug that's to hot or the shank is to long u can damage the piston etc


4..If it has grease zerks grease them ,Lube the drive gears/chains ,Make sure u don't get it on the friction disc or platter because it wont drive if u do ..If u do get any on it u can use brake clean to get it off..If it has a plug in the front auger gear box remove it and put grease or heavy gear lube depending on what it calls for


5..Inspect the belts and pulleys if the belts are cracked replace them or they will fail when u don't want them to ..If there lose most machines have a tensor u can adjust or some have a cable u can adjust don't do it to tight it could case u to blow a belt or damage the tensor and bearings in the back of the bucket ..If the pulleys are rusty clean them up if there bent replace them

6..Use shear pins in the auger not nuts and bolts ..I had one come in this week that the auger and blade were all smashed and broke it was junk because they used a bolt and not a shear pin ..It cost 150 for a complete used bucket that's my cost plus install ...

there is tons more but this is the basics feel free to add more if u wish ..Oh and always make sure there is nothing that u are going to hit with the blower ..Have a safe winter

Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL

 

[Carscw]

Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL

That's back when racing took more skill.

I miss the days of using full frame cars now you have to run a jig car to keep up.
There are not many tracks around that run bone stock anymore.

 

[briggs]

Thanks Briggs for all the good info. Is Lucas one of your race car sponsors, I have used their products for many years and was into racing in my younger years as a mechanic, I am so old that when we started we ran the ford flathead ( now that's old ) LOL

no i just use it because its good stuff i found it one day when i had my old beater truck and it had a noisy lifter put that in it worked good ...it was quit lol ...then i had a derby car that had a whipped 305 in it sounded like it was going to blow i put some in it i ran it the rest of season and won 3 times lol and i drive the guts out of them ...So now i use it in all my stuff my blazer has 260k on it and dose not make a noise at all its a 99 and has had it added every oil change ..And i use it in my race engine with royal purple race oil works awesome but i use castrol oil at my shop in all the EQ we service and of course Lucaus :thumbsup: works good ads a little more viscosity to the oil and yes i use 5w30 lol ..I used to use sae 30 if it said to do so but try to pull start that in the dead cold pull your guts out thats even if u could get it to roll over with out the blower moving around lol ...Got sick of that 5 30 is the way to go