I stopped the mower to move some limbs, got right back on it and tried to crank it but nothing happened, completely dead. Checked that parking brake was on, arms in the right position, and clutch was off. everything was set right. Cleaned battery cables and checked ground, ok. I believe it must be one of the switches but don't know how to troubleshoot switches to determine which one is bad. I could definitely use some help. I did put a jumper on the seat switch to no avail. That leaves the hand brake switch and the arm switch and anything else I might not have considered.
Snapper ZTR dead-won't turn over
- Thread starter jb3b
- Start date
Check for a blown fuse.
Lawnranger
Well-Known Member
First make sure your battery has at least 12.5 volts using a volt meter then check your fuse(s). What you want to do is find out if you have power to the small terminal on the solenoid when holding the key in the start position. You need to make sure you have everything the mower needs to start such as the parking brake set, control arms out, etc. Simply hold the key in the start position and check for 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid. If your solenoid has two small terminals then check them both as one is a ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If you have no power to the small start terminal on the solenoid you have a problem with a safety switch, the ignition switch or the wiring. If you have power on the small terminal at the solenoid then you have a bad solenoid or ground at the solenoid body.
Perform the above checks and report back with your findings. You will receive further advice based on your answers.
I will be able to help you if you follow what I ask you to do.
Perform the above checks and report back with your findings. You will receive further advice based on your answers.
I will be able to help you if you follow what I ask you to do.
Lawnranger
Well-Known Member
Take your time and most important is safety.
When I jumpered across the terminals the engine spun like a top.
Didn't find a fuse but did find a 20 amp circuit breaker. It checked out ok.
I did not check the small terminals with a volt meter but did check with tester and the bulb lit up on both small lines. I jumped across the terminals and the motor spun so I determined the solenoid was bad and invested ten bucks and replaced it. It didn't work. I will be able to check with a volt meter tomorrow. The 20 amp circuit breaker ohmed out ok. I looks to me like the culprit is either the hand brake switch, the arm switch, or the ignition switch. What is your suggestion going forward.
Lawnranger
Well-Known Member
Start with the seat switch. Inspect the harness connector at the switch and tell me if there is a wire/cable tie holding the harness connector to the switch. If there is no cable tie proceed by removing the connector from the switch and inspect the end of the connector very, very carefully as you will be looking for a small odd shaped plunger that is actually a mirco switch in the end of the plastic harness connector. Some machines use them, some do not. If this harness connector backs out of the seat switch, even just a little bit, you may experience a no-start condition. The fix is to make sure the electrical connectors are clean & tight and then install the connector all the way on the seat switch. Next, use a wire/cable tie to secure the connector to the seat switch to prevent the problem from occurring again. This should not take you more than a couple of minutes to diagnose and fix so I'm starting with the simplest solution first. If this does not fix the problem then proceed to the safety switches in the system by removing and testing them one at a time using an ohm meter.
Post your results when finished with the tests.
I'm going to add the following:
Since this is a help forum, it is only fair that the people trying to answer questions have some information to work with, so they can give an accurate answer. This helps them if they need to research parts or service information on your engine or equipment. In the first part of your post please include your engine numbers from the ID tag or stamping and the equipment type and model numbers that are on it. Failure to do this may results in you not receiving any accurate help with your problem.
Many of the tech's that hang out here work in or have there own shops and the first thing they do when they make up a work order on a unit is include the engine and equipment numbers on the work order. Since this technical forum is offered free to the public, it's the least we can ask you to do, so please help all of us out.