Snapper LT200 series 20hp...42" deck 2009-10...serial# 070410YG56188

S

saxyman

Member
I own a Snapper .LT200 series 20hp...42" deck 2009-10...serial# 070410YG56188. I recently had problems to keep it running and replaced the fuel pump which solved the problem for a couple of months! I cranked it the other day to mow and it cranked but didn`t sound quite right and stopped running and I was unable to crank it again. There was plenty of fuel in the line from tank to fuel pump but not much from fuel pump to engine! Do these fuel pumps fail often? It ran fine up until then. I am considering ordering a new fuel pump but does anyone have any ideas about what might be going on!...........Thanks.............yofrenray
 
Would help if we had the model number from the valve cover on the engine itself. Also the 7 digit model number from the tag on tag would also assist since Lt200 is just a series number and covers several different model numbers.
 
ILENGINE said:
Would help if we had the model number from the valve cover on the engine itself. Also the 7 digit model number from the tag on tag would also assist since Lt200 is just a series number and covers several different model numbers.
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INFO ON TAG: Model- TR/MWR-LT200 20hp 42" B&S iNTEK TWIN DOM PART#2690578 SERIAL#2000852679
Thanks for your assistance......
 
Looks like that mower used the 44G777-0400-E1 Briggs engine. Check the vacuum tube between the valve cover and the fuel pump to make sure it hasn't developed cracks which can effect the vacuum pulses. Fuel pumps don't fail very often, or at least the OEM ones don't Chinesium replacements not so much.
 
ILENGINE said:
Looks like that mower used the 44G777-0400-E1 Briggs engine. Check the vacuum tube between the valve cover and the fuel pump to make sure it hasn't developed cracks which can effect the vacuum pulses. Fuel pumps don't fail very often, or at least the OEM ones don't Chinesium replacements not so much.
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Thanks for the info! The vacuum tube is ok.............and yes! This fuel pump came directly from Prime Minister Chu...........LOL
 
If you meant engine not turning when you tried to crank it, you need to check battery voltage with the ignition in the run position and the headlights on. Fuel supply would have zero to do with not cranking. However if you meant it would not catch when turned, that could be fuel. Make sure you have good voltage. Some coils and some EFI won't work right with low voltage. If that is Ok then pull the spark plugs, remove the air fan covers and see if you can turn the engine over in both directions by hand. If not pull the valve covers to see which valve is hung open. The valve guide may have shifted or a valve seat dropped. If you can turn it over by hand, and the battery has good voltage then check all the safety switches that prevent the engine from spinning when they are not engaged. Some may only affect the kill wire and not the starter. If that is all good, then I would measure the battery voltage when you turn the starter key to see if the battery is being pulled down, or the starter has a bad connection. My money is a bad valve seat or guide hanging a valve open. I would hesitate on forcing the engine over with the starter until you confirm that a valve is not hitting the piston. If you have a bore scope - and they are inexpensive these days, you can just look into each spark plug hole to see the valve and seat condition. Those are my guesses. Someone else may have an easier path to a solution.
 
sgkent said:
If you meant engine not turning when you tried to crank it, you need to check battery voltage with the ignition in the run position and the headlights on. Fuel supply would have zero to do with not cranking. However if you meant it would not catch when turned, that could be fuel. Make sure you have good voltage. Some coils and some EFI won't work right with low voltage. If that is Ok then pull the spark plugs, remove the air fan covers and see if you can turn the engine over in both directions by hand. If not pull the valve covers to see which valve is hung open. The valve guide may have shifted or a valve seat dropped. If you can turn it over by hand, and the battery has good voltage then check all the safety switches that prevent the engine from spinning when they are not engaged. Some may only affect the kill wire and not the starter. If that is all good, then I would measure the battery voltage when you turn the starter key to see if the battery is being pulled down, or the starter has a bad connection. My money is a bad valve seat or guide hanging a valve open. I would hesitate on forcing the engine over with the starter until you confirm that a valve is not hitting the piston. If you have a bore scope - and they are inexpensive these days, you can just look into each spark plug hole to see the valve and seat condition. Those are my guesses. Someone else may have an easier path to a solution.
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Thanks......I appreciate your reply!
 
Wow I think you should just disassemble the engine. People have different definitions of crank. Crank will the engine turn over when you turn the key to start the engine to try and get it to run. My suggestion, crank the engine over and spray Gum Out carb cleaner on the throat of the carb to see if it will start and run if only just for a few seconds. If it does fuel problem if not ignition problem.
 
hlw49 said:
Wow I think you should just disassemble the engine. People have different definitions of crank. Crank will the engine turn over when you turn the key to start the engine to try and get it to run. My suggestion, crank the engine over and spray Gum Out carb cleaner on the throat of the carb to see if it will start and run if only just for a few seconds. If it does fuel problem if not ignition problem.
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hlw49 said:
Wow I think you should just disassemble the engine. People have different definitions of crank. Crank will the engine turn over when you turn the key to start the engine to try and get it to run. My suggestion, crank the engine over and spray Gum Out carb cleaner on the throat of the carb to see if it will start and run if only just for a few seconds. If it does fuel problem if not ignition problem.
Click to expand...
Thanks......................when I replaced the fuel pump at the beginning of the season it had been running fine and just stopped and couldn`t get it started. The fuel pump solved the problem but it`s doing something similar now. It cranked and ran fine for 2 months and cranked one last time a couple of weeks ago, but kinda slowly RPMs went down and it stopped. Turns over fine and sounds normal except it won`t crank!! Do fuel pumps like this one go bad that quick???
 
saxyman said:
Thanks......................when I replaced the fuel pump at the beginning of the season it had been running fine and just stopped and couldn`t get it started. The fuel pump solved the problem but it`s doing something similar now. It cranked and ran fine for 2 months and cranked one last time a couple of weeks ago, but kinda slowly RPMs went down and it stopped. Turns over fine and sounds normal except it won`t crank!! Do fuel pumps like this one go bad that quick???
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Another note....This mower is a MF to get to anything without, like you said, disassembling the whole damn thing!.........LOL
 
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