Snapper hivac 3311X5S driven disk?

Wpbrink1

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
20
Hi again,
So I replaced the yoke and driven disk but it still hesitates in first gear. What is the correct way to setup the tension between the driven disc and the drive disc pulley from the engine? Where should the gear shift be when I adjust everything and how much of a gap if any? Thanks
 

mattm55

Active Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Threads
3
Messages
82
Hi again,
So I replaced the yoke and driven disk but it still hesitates in first gear. What is the correct way to setup the tension between the driven disc and the drive disc pulley from the engine? Where should the gear shift be when I adjust everything and how much of a gap if any? Thanks
Jims Fixit has one of the best tutorials and shows you his homemade tool you can use.
 

slomo

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 14, 2019
Threads
76
Messages
4,713
Yup Jim on Youtube has the best videos. Download and keep all of them.

All you need is more contact action (pressure) on the steel drive disk.

Been like 10 plus years now. Mine wheelies if you dump the clutch. I ground out the rear plate where the hoops are bolted to when you raise the front end in the air. It allowed more push friction on the steel drive disk. Mine pulls my fat arse at 285lbs, an 80lb core aerator, 8 cinder blocks at 43lbs each and the wife at 120lbs. Simple math comes out to a lot.
 

slomo

Lawn Addict
Joined
Jul 14, 2019
Threads
76
Messages
4,713
I replaced the yoke and driven disk but it still hesitates in first gear.
What I found was all these brands who make the rubber driven disk, all the OD's are different. Some have less rubber long story short. I had to mod my drive for a Stens or Oregon rubber disk. Even the Snapper ones would make my gears slip. No more slip. Mine had/has wear on the yoke parts so I ground out the rear plate so the driven disk could push further INTO the steel drive disk.
 

mack1611

Forum Newbie
Joined
Jul 11, 2023
Threads
0
Messages
5
According to Jim's video 3 13/16" is the max for the steel drive disc. My mower slipped at that length and I kept moving it down by a 1/16" until the desired results were achieved which was 3 15/16".
 

mattm55

Active Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Threads
3
Messages
82
I built a tool like his video described but I needed to adjust by experience instead. I pull 180# (me) plus a fully loaded Cyclone Rake (Classic) with no issues. Wheelies? Heck yeah!
 

Oddjob

Active Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Threads
9
Messages
70
Hi again,
So I replaced the yoke and driven disk but it still hesitates in first gear. What is the correct way to setup the tension between the driven disc and the drive disc pulley from the engine? Where should the gear shift be when I adjust everything and how much of a gap if any? Thanks
I know this is an old thread but in case anyone else is looking for a solution, let me add that in the same video where Jim demonstrates his paint stirrer tool, he mentions another fix for slipping. With the machine sitting on its backside, there is a long spring on the left side that is connected to the clutch/brake. There are extra holes that allow you to reposition the spring to increase tension on the spring and thus, on the driven disc. I actually made the paint stick tool but tried the spring fix first. Turned out that was all I needed to cure the slipping so I declared victory, drilled a hole in the paint stick and found a place on my pegboard for my new tool.
 
Top