Replaced Ignition Switch now blades engage but won't disengage

[Manicurist]

Refused to buy a repro ignition switch. Dealers inventory had no branding or packaging to indicate it is any better than after market. But the dealers did have a single brass spade, so I bought it. (after market appear all aluminum). It was after that install that my problem began.
When pulling the blade knob to engage nothing out of the ordinary, no delay the blades engage, but depressing blade button does not disengage the blade. PTO is obviously not the issue as the blades engage. Right? Any suggestion on trouble shooting?
Logical reasoning depressing the knob to disengage, is not being acknowledged. Anything further?
Fast Trak Mini 36" Honda GXV530 Model: 927376
Thanks in advance.

 

[hlw49]

So how do you disengage the blades turn the switch off?

 

[Manicurist]

So how do you disengage the blades turn the switch off?

Now yes, that is the only way to stop the blades from spinning. Before this repair, you would push the knob down, blades would stop. When you wanted to mow again pull knob up.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Refused to buy a repro ignition switch. Dealers inventory had no branding or packaging to indicate it is any better than after market. But the dealers did have a single brass spade, so I bought it. (after market appear all aluminum). It was after that install that my problem began.
When pulling the blade knob to engage nothing out of the ordinary, no delay the blades engage, but depressing blade button does not disengage the blade. PTO is obviously not the issue as the blades engage. Right? Any suggestion on trouble shooting?
Logical reasoning depressing the knob to disengage, is not being acknowledged. Anything further?
Fast Trak Mini 36" Honda GXV530 Model: 927376
Thanks in advance.

What prompted you to replace the switch to begin with?

Aftermarket switches are a best guess. Did you get it from an actual Hustler dealer or an independent repair shop that only claims it is correct? Not all switches are pinned the same or correctly.

 

[StarTech]

it is more likely that the PTO clutch is sticking or the PTO switch is defective. The PTO switch would turn off the power to the clutch no matter what if it is good.

As for switch unlike Delta switches Indak does not put their PN on their switches so we have to depend on our vendors for the correct crosses so the internal configs are correct.

 

[Manicurist]

What prompted you to replace the switch to begin with?

Aftermarket switches are a best guess. Did you get it from an actual Hustler dealer or an independent repair shop that only claims it is correct? Not all switches are pinned the same or correctly.

It is a 2004 model. The key hole was just worn out. Hustler dealer. I have only used OEM on this machine +/- blades. Past 4 years, the parts mostly seem generic or aftermarket. They used to be presented in a branded pouch or bag or tag with part number. Now you get a generic looking no brand no manufacture mark, just a raw part handed to you and you have to trust them it is the number you need. This ignition switch wasn't any different but as I said it did have one spade in brass, and the amazon/on line options didn't, so I went with the dealer full retail Hustler.

 

[StarTech]

And there is only 29 3 position Indak magneto switches and none have a part number on them. Dumb I know but is how Indak does things.

If you read the wiring I posted you see there is no way the new is preventing the PTO from electrically shutting down. Only the PTO switch; unless, someone not knowing what they are doing rewired the circuit.

Note things can fail at any time. Otherwords just because it work before you replace the ignition doesn't mean it fail the during the time as you replace the ignition switch.

 

[Auto Doc's]

It is a 2004 model. The key hole was just worn out. Hustler dealer. I have only used OEM on this machine +/- blades. Past 4 years, the parts mostly seem generic or aftermarket. They used to be presented in a branded pouch or bag or tag with part number. Now you get a generic looking no brand no manufacture mark, just a raw part handed to you and you have to trust them it is the number you need. This ignition switch wasn't any different but as I said it did have one spade in brass, and the amazon/on line options didn't, so I went with the dealer full retail Hustler.

If it is a 2004 model, you are under the illusion that you are getting genuine OEM. (You are only paying dealer prices for a "best guess" wrong aftermarket part)

Aside from that, all of the electrical components are supplied by aftermarket contracted vendors anyway. The "factory" is just the assembly location, and they have multiple locations around the world.

Remove the new switch and look at the plastic at the base of the pins, there will be tiny letters usually molded in. The pin assignments on original worn switch needs to be compared to the new one.

Dealers don't always sell "genuine" bagged and boxed parts; they are in business to make money regardless. Don't expect their parts people to be aware of internal switch differences that are common. I ran into this a couple of times a year when I was a service manager at a JD dealer.

As StarTech mentioned, there are many switch variations. You cannot go by basic looks alone.

Can you reinstall/ reconnect the old switch temporarily and still have the same issue?

You will likely find the correct part through Jack's small engine, Parts Tree or EBAY. You will have to look it up by your product label tag ID numbers.