Problems with Oil in a Briggs & Stratton

J

jwalter1

Forum Newbie
Hey Guys,


Need a little advice...I knew my Briggs and Stratton 28R707 mower was low on oil and the oil was old so I changed...It calls for 10w30 but I wasn't paying attention and I put SAE 30 on accident. It ran fine for awhile but then started backfiring and quit. So I then realized what I did and drained the oil only. I put regular 10w30 oil in and started it but now the engine will not run.

Any ideas?

Thanks!


Jason
 
jwalter1 said:
Hey Guys,


Need a little advice...I knew my Briggs and Stratton 28R707 mower was low on oil and the oil was old so I changed...It calls for 10w30 but I wasn't paying attention and I put SAE 30 on accident. It ran fine for awhile but then started backfiring and quit. So I then realized what I did and drained the oil only. I put regular 10w30 oil in and started it but now the engine will not run.

Any ideas?

Thanks!


Jason
Click to expand...

The oil has nothing to do with the backfiring and stopping....what else can you tell us?
unless you put the oil in the gas tank
 
it sounds like you might have been a little late on the oil change? SAE 30 shouldn't of hurt the mower but the low oil may have???
 
The only other thing I did was add gas....It was not empty but I topped it off. It has been running fine until today....oh and I did put the oil in the right place. :-)
 
The oil has nothing to do with it not running but when you get it running I would use 5-40 Shell T-6 in it you live where it gets really hot my manual for my Briggs says use 40 over 90 degrees.
But first you need to find out why it won't run.
 
Try a new spark plug maybe it got oil fouled? Could you of hit something? This would of sheered the key in the flywheel. can't think too much more that would make it back fire??
 
Not to be duh, but a motor runs on 3 things: Spark, Fuel, and Compression. I always check for a spark first, its easy to do. No spark, start looking for the safety switches, and if all are being made you have to dig deeper. If there is a spark, then I run a compression test. You should have at least 100 psi, if not....... While you are in the vicinity, set the valves. When you take off the rocker cover, the exhaust is the top one. Set the intake at .005 - .007. The exhaust gets .010 - .011. Then its the fuel testing time. Go through the carb, use some Gunk or a good cleaner. At least 80% of all the repairs I do involve old gas, carb deposits, plugged main jet.:smile:
 
wildbill said:
Not to be duh, but a motor runs on 3 things: Spark, Fuel, and Compression. I always check for a spark first, its easy to do. No spark, start looking for the safety switches, and if all are being made you have to dig deeper. If there is a spark, then I run a compression test. You should have at least 100 psi, if not....... While you are in the vicinity, set the valves. When you take off the rocker cover, the exhaust is the top one. Set the intake at .005 - .007. The exhaust gets .010 - .011. Then its the fuel testing time. Go through the carb, use some Gunk or a good cleaner. At least 80% of all the repairs I do involve old gas, carb deposits, plugged main jet.:smile:
Click to expand...

Don't forget timeing- 4 things
 
I would agree with the old fuel but in addition, if the fuel has ethanol in it it could be starting to separate from the fuel causing this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top