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Pins on Toro MX5060 don't work
- Thread starter jcworks
- Start date
bertmobile1,
UPDATE: I went to the shop to check on the progress and talked to the mechanic that would be doing the work. He said they were waiting on parts; they had determined the trans seemed OK and had plenty of pressure for operation . And they had determined the only thing it could be was the brake box (or maybe he called it braker box). It was a black box looking thing visible if you lifted the seat. It may be the same thing mentioned in the video you sent to me. Any way its an electronic thing and he said that had influence too over disengaging the trans. I don't know -- I'm not a mower mechanic, I'm just vaguely familiar with what makes them go. So, I'm waiting to see how this goes and if it fixes the disengagement issue.
UPDATE: I went to the shop to check on the progress and talked to the mechanic that would be doing the work. He said they were waiting on parts; they had determined the trans seemed OK and had plenty of pressure for operation . And they had determined the only thing it could be was the brake box (or maybe he called it braker box). It was a black box looking thing visible if you lifted the seat. It may be the same thing mentioned in the video you sent to me. Any way its an electronic thing and he said that had influence too over disengaging the trans. I don't know -- I'm not a mower mechanic, I'm just vaguely familiar with what makes them go. So, I'm waiting to see how this goes and if it fixes the disengagement issue.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
I think they are spinning you a line
But time will tell
AFAIK all the brake module dose is to move the toothed locking plates onto the toothed wheels to lock the axels .
It also has a set of contacts to lock out the starter motor unless the brakes are on
Never had to touch one to push a Time Cutter unless the battery was flat as the brake module is spring loaded on .
But time will tell
AFAIK all the brake module dose is to move the toothed locking plates onto the toothed wheels to lock the axels .
It also has a set of contacts to lock out the starter motor unless the brakes are on
Never had to touch one to push a Time Cutter unless the battery was flat as the brake module is spring loaded on .
Well I hope you're wrong but I have a gut feeling you're right. When they call me that its ready, if it doesn't freely roll with the rods pushed in I won't want to pay for a part that didn't solve the problem -- they're probably not a cheap part. I'll guess I'll cross that difficult bridge if and when I get to it. The guy at the repair & parts counter is usually a pretty straight up guy. So we'll see. On concrete I "think" it should roll freely with just the push of just your hands.I think they are spinning you a line
But time will tell
AFAIK all the brake module dose is to move the toothed locking plates onto the toothed wheels to lock the axels .
It also has a set of contacts to lock out the starter motor unless the brakes are on
Never had to touch one to push a Time Cutter unless the battery was flat as the brake module is spring loaded on .
Just from our conversation and my learning from you I would think the issue has something to do with those by-pass valves that the bypass arm is connected to. I'm wondering if those bypass valves lift out once you disconnect the bypass arm?? Or if you have to tear into the trans to take a look at that. (*Speaking of the trans, the fluid has never been changed because I was told by two different dealers there was no need to do that till about 500 hrs. It has 300 on it.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Not as far as I know
I no longer repair any hydros, I am not set up for it, my workshop is on a farm so there is a lot of fine dust / pollen / seeds blowing around .
There is a specialist workshop 1/2 hour away who do an excellent job and give me a full 12 month warranty on their work.
Plus they come back fully purged with the correct grade of oil s for me it is just a pull then replace .
As for you having a defective valve in your drive, never heard of it happening .
The chances of you having the the only 2 would be remote and especially as the left & right drives are not made as a set .
I no longer repair any hydros, I am not set up for it, my workshop is on a farm so there is a lot of fine dust / pollen / seeds blowing around .
There is a specialist workshop 1/2 hour away who do an excellent job and give me a full 12 month warranty on their work.
Plus they come back fully purged with the correct grade of oil s for me it is just a pull then replace .
As for you having a defective valve in your drive, never heard of it happening .
The chances of you having the the only 2 would be remote and especially as the left & right drives are not made as a set .
bertsmobile1, they called that it was ready so I went to pick it up and tested it before to see if i could push it. There was no change. The wheels do roll but with a heck of a lot of pushing just the same as it was before. The only thing left that I can see now is its internal inside the trans. And probably like you said....the bypass valves. You'd surely think though it would not be the same on both sides. I can mow with it just fine. Its just when you have to push it , for whatever reason. He said there was another one just like it, but it was a 4225, not an MX5060 like mine is. So I tried to push it and I could. It was hard too, but it was a lot easier than mine. He attributed that to mine is a bigger mower and heavier and mine has the welded steel deck and not the stamped deck the 4225 had. So, mine probably is heavier I dont doubt that. But you can still run it with the bypass rods pushed in or pulled out....doesn't matter, it still drives either way. Weird...I know. I'd sure like to put this question to your friend over the phone that works on hydros.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
To put it in plain language
Total Bull Dust
I have TimeCutters, Z-Masters & even Titans in my run & they all easily push, even on grass with the by-pass open .
Your mowers should have HydroGear ZT-2800 transmissions and they should roll freely with the bypass fully open
As suggested before, get under the mower & check that the bypass valve moves all the way to the end of it's travel before the rods you pull get to the lock ring
If necessary remove the bypass rods , and move the lever on the gear box by hand ( they can be a little stiff )
I would almost gurantee that the arm ( lever if you like ) is not moving all the way that it should .
As for what else you can do try writing ( not phoning ) to HydroGear and ask why their units installed on your mower do not roll freely.
You will need the model & serial numbers from the stickers on them .
And the weight of the mower means nothing unless you are pushing up hill.
I had a friend who worked at the Jet base and they used to have "drag races" to see who could pull a 727 the furthest in 2 minutes and a 727 ( even empty ) weighs a lot more than your mower .
I would also write to Toro and ask them if the mower should push freely and tell them exactly what your dealer told you ( name the dealer & the person if you know it ) .
Toro do not tollerate poor customer service and in particular dealers who lie to customers .
When you write to HydroGear & Toro, have the parts book open and use the correct names & part numbers so they know exactly what you are talking about . If you start talking about "pins" your request will get nowhere .
Total Bull Dust
I have TimeCutters, Z-Masters & even Titans in my run & they all easily push, even on grass with the by-pass open .
Your mowers should have HydroGear ZT-2800 transmissions and they should roll freely with the bypass fully open
As suggested before, get under the mower & check that the bypass valve moves all the way to the end of it's travel before the rods you pull get to the lock ring
If necessary remove the bypass rods , and move the lever on the gear box by hand ( they can be a little stiff )
I would almost gurantee that the arm ( lever if you like ) is not moving all the way that it should .
As for what else you can do try writing ( not phoning ) to HydroGear and ask why their units installed on your mower do not roll freely.
You will need the model & serial numbers from the stickers on them .
And the weight of the mower means nothing unless you are pushing up hill.
I had a friend who worked at the Jet base and they used to have "drag races" to see who could pull a 727 the furthest in 2 minutes and a 727 ( even empty ) weighs a lot more than your mower .
I would also write to Toro and ask them if the mower should push freely and tell them exactly what your dealer told you ( name the dealer & the person if you know it ) .
Toro do not tollerate poor customer service and in particular dealers who lie to customers .
When you write to HydroGear & Toro, have the parts book open and use the correct names & part numbers so they know exactly what you are talking about . If you start talking about "pins" your request will get nowhere .
Thanks bertsmobile1. I'll look up Hydro and write to them (email if they have that), and the same with Toro. But first, I'll see if I can remove those two rods from the by pass arm like you said and push the bypass arm any further than it goes with the rods attached to it. I may have to tie the arms in place to test it, or maybe use duct tape to hold it because it moves very freely now. I've got some stuff going on at home I've got to get to today first.To put it in plain language
Total Bull Dust
I have TimeCutters, Z-Masters & even Titans in my run & they all easily push, even on grass with the by-pass open .
Your mowers should have HydroGear ZT-2800 transmissions and they should roll freely with the bypass fully open
As suggested before, get under the mower & check that the bypass valve moves all the way to the end of it's travel before the rods you pull get to the lock ring
If necessary remove the bypass rods , and move the lever on the gear box by hand ( they can be a little stiff )
I would almost gurantee that the arm ( lever if you like ) is not moving all the way that it should .
As for what else you can do try writing ( not phoning ) to HydroGear and ask why their units installed on your mower do not roll freely.
You will need the model & serial numbers from the stickers on them .
And the weight of the mower means nothing unless you are pushing up hill.
I had a friend who worked at the Jet base and they used to have "drag races" to see who could pull a 727 the furthest in 2 minutes and a 727 ( even empty ) weighs a lot more than your mower .
I would also write to Toro and ask them if the mower should push freely and tell them exactly what your dealer told you ( name the dealer & the person if you know it ) .
Toro do not tollerate poor customer service and in particular dealers who lie to customers .
When you write to HydroGear & Toro, have the parts book open and use the correct names & part numbers so they know exactly what you are talking about . If you start talking about "pins" your request will get nowhere .
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Don't have to go that far
release the brake as per the instructions in your owners manual
Slip the wheel off so you can see the bypass valve arm,
Rotate the axel with your hand so you have a comparison point
clean the area where the bypass arm moves around
move the arm with your finger as far as it will go then with the other hand try to rotate the axel
I should be substantially easier to do
Mark where the arm ends up on the housing
go round the back & pull the bypass control rods ( wires ) out & lock them into place .
Check the position of the bypass arm against your previous mark.
If it is short of where your finger moved it to and if it was very free when you moved it with your fingers then grab the wire with some lockjaws & bend it till the arm moves all the way.
I have needed to do this only twice in 10 years
Once it was delivered like that, the other time it was a branch
OTOH I regularly have to dig out packed in dust that is preventing full travel of the bypass arm .
release the brake as per the instructions in your owners manual
Slip the wheel off so you can see the bypass valve arm,
Rotate the axel with your hand so you have a comparison point
clean the area where the bypass arm moves around
move the arm with your finger as far as it will go then with the other hand try to rotate the axel
I should be substantially easier to do
Mark where the arm ends up on the housing
go round the back & pull the bypass control rods ( wires ) out & lock them into place .
Check the position of the bypass arm against your previous mark.
If it is short of where your finger moved it to and if it was very free when you moved it with your fingers then grab the wire with some lockjaws & bend it till the arm moves all the way.
I have needed to do this only twice in 10 years
Once it was delivered like that, the other time it was a branch
OTOH I regularly have to dig out packed in dust that is preventing full travel of the bypass arm .