Older BR400 blower problem

The key brole because the first time it happened it scored the shaft so the taper can not lock
he shaft will need any burr dressed off with a fine file then the flywheel & shaft lapped with some brasso .
 
trooper1954 said:
Hi all,
After replacing the Woodruff key detailed above, the machine would not start. After two days of trying everything, I heard that familiar sound while pulling the cord....the key had broken again!!! Does anyone know what torque the flywheel nut requires, and is that maybe why the key broke a second time? I just tightened it without a torque wrench, and I'm thinking that didn't seat the key properly? Thoughts anyone?
Thanks
Click to expand...
18.5 ft-lbs
 
Yes, the key only keeps the flywheel in place while you tighten the nut, the taper of the shaft is what holds it into place.
 
Thx guys,
Bertsmobile1, I looked carefully with a magnifying glass at both the shaft keyway,and the flywheel.... can't see any burrs or marks.
Waiting for the Woodruff keys....I ordered two this time!???
 
trooper1954 said:
BTW, I've heard that 1/2" torque wrenches are notoriously "out" quite a bit when set under 50ft lbs....any thoughts?
Click to expand...
The way to know for sure is to do a calibration test. I something that I do once a year as I have found a couple of mine off by several pounds.
 
trooper1954 said:
BTW, I've heard that 1/2" torque wrenches are notoriously "out" quite a bit when set under 50ft lbs....any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Depends upon the wrench and the way the owners uses or rather abuses it.
As a general rule you do not use a wrench in the lower or upper 10%.
Thus a 0 to 100 ftlbs wrench would only be used to torque between 10 & 90 ftlbs.
The closer to the middle the more accurate they will be.
The best are the deflecting beam and the worst are the micrometer adjustable wratchet types unless you paid a good 3 figure number for them.
 
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