Old Weed Eater String Trimmer & Blower - FUBAR

Blaine B.

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I have a 1992 model Weed Eater GBI 22V leaf blower and GTI 15T string trimmer.

These have been sitting for many years in a garage. This summer I pulled them out. The fuel lines were absolutely deteriorated, so I replaced them. I used some nylon tubing from work, not actual "fuel line." There is only one fuel line on each unit. There is no primer bulb. These are older units, remember....22 years old.

Now, it really isn't a big deal if I can't get these running. They were free. But, I have spent about 4 hours on these units so far, and it is very frustrating.

The units always required starting fluid to start, yet the fuel was getting through the fuel line just fine (as verified by removing fuel line from carburetor.) I also removed the little "vents" in the tips of the fuel tank caps just to make sure the tanks were not building too much pressure. So essentially, they have a 1/16" open orifice to the environment. Originally, that seemed to make a positive change in performance, but that didn't last long.

I disassembled the carburetors and cleaned out all of the orifices and the screens. I removed both of the covers, for the fuel pump and then the other side as well. The gaskets and the diaphragms appeared to be in OK condition. They were not brittle or anything like that.

For awhile it appeared that the leaf blower was the better of the two, as I was finally able to adjust the leaf blower and got it to start without starting fluid and it would run just fine once it was warmed up. However, after sitting for less than a week, I was absolutely unable to get it to start today! I used starting fluid. The unit would run for about 1-2 seconds on the starting fluid and then die out.

This is the same repeating problem with the string trimmer as well. It would run on starting fluid but that's it.

I started it today and it only ran for about 5 minutes before dying out, then I couldn't start it. It would run and stutter for about 2-3 seconds and then that was it.

These are the SAME issues that I have experienced, time and time, and time again with these units. Like I said, I have invested 4-5 hours......that is the truth. There are only two adjustment screws on these units. A high-speed screw and an idle-screw (that essentially holds the throttle valve at a minimum, the idle screw has nothing to do with mixture.)

I am at a loss here. I wasn't toying with these units because I cannot afford something better. I was toying with them because I would never have imagined that it would take this long to still have a failed two-stroke unit.

By the way, both units appear to have an acceptable spark. But that was something that crossed my mind. Perhaps the coils are weak?

But the odd thing is, there were one or two times where I was able to use these units for about 20 minutes, and they ran GREAT. Sometimes they would die off by themselves and then I couldn't restart them (almost seemed like they overheated and then you can't restart them - compression issue?) and other times I was able to run them until I was done.

I have disassembled, reassembled, and adjusted the fuel mixture countless times.

What the heck is going on here? This is absolutely ridiculous.

I'm not sure how I could have got them to a point where they would run great for a session, and then the next week I couldn't get them to do anything. It has been back-and-forth the entire time. They are NOT reliable, that's for sure!
 

ILENGINE

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Check compression and see what it is. if they are below 90 then cut your losses and move on. I have seen more than one poulan run at 80 but can be intermittent.
 

Blaine B.

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I do not have a compression tester. It seems to pass the test with the pull cord. Both appear to have good compression. The cords are not really easy to pull, even when they seem to be in "overheating" no start condition.

There is an extreme noticeable difference when using the recoil start with and without the spark plug inserted. I know that isn't an accurate test, but it's the best I can do for now.

It is really strange. I don't know what is going on.
 

Fish

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You should go through the carbs one more time, this time pick out that little tight meshed screen and throw it away, then on the other side, remove the needle/spring/lever, and hold the carb body up to a light and look through that hole that connects the
two, then blow that passage out, and hold it up to a light again, and visually verify that the passage is clear. Re-assemble and try again. That should get you running, but for best performance, you should replace the diaphragms..
 

Wildcat

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I would cut my loses before you start spending too much money on free equipment. My Bolens BL100 finally gave up the ghost this summer after 4 years of use. I had the same problem as you minus the fuel line issues. I spent 3 bucks on a new spark plug, adjusted the carb and after only when it wouldn't stay running I let it go. I advise you do the same unless you are hell bent on keeping the equipment.
 

Blaine B.

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I know all of the passages are 100% clear. But I suppose I could remove the screen. There really wasn't any debris in there before, though, but I cleaned it out just to be safe.

As for the diaphragms....how do they control the flow of fuel? They are just a flap of what appears to be gasket material (at least on the pump side of the carb.)

I re-installed the diaphragms correctly, according to the diagram. There is a separate gasket, and then the diaphragm itself. Very odd. I tried leaving the diaphragm out for a test, but it was just getting flooded with fuel without it (as to be expected, I suppose.)

And I agree - I am not wanting to spend any money on these. Although I did go through 4 cans of starting fluid already. Ridiculous.

To be honest, I am fed up with these. My hands are blistered from pulling the recoil hundreds of times. I have blisters over healing blisters. Meh.

On the other hand, it just hurts my man-status to say that I was unable to get these to run.
 

Blaine B.

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Here are some pics.
 

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Wildcat

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Blaine B. said:
On the other hand, it just hurts my man-status to say that I was unable to get these to run.

I understand but I'm sure it happens to everyone at one time or another. Just shrug it off and move on.
 

Fish

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I know all of the passages are 100% clear. But I suppose I could remove the screen. There really wasn't any debris in there before, though, but I cleaned it out just to be safe.

As for the diaphragms....how do they control the flow of fuel? They are just a flap of what appears to be gasket material (at least on the pump side of the carb.)

How in the world can you claim this? Since you have not removed the screen, and done as I have suggested? If you remove one of those screens, you will see why I suggested throwing it away. If you would take a look at the passage under that screen, you
would see why I suggested cleaning that!!!!

If you had already given up on heeding advice given here, why did you make a post?
 

Fish

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Back in that day, the screen itself was a big problem, as the mesh was so tight, even the scummiest fuel would clog the heck out of it.
 
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