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Off-season storage/maintanice

#1

M

mattdmarie

Hi,
I'm new to the forum, and didn't see a topic for this. I'm not a complete newbiew to lawnare, but definately with large ztr machinary and what the best way to keep it in storage (prior to my scag I had a 6hp craftsman 22" lol). Here are a few questions swimming in my mind (feel free to point me to any other areas where these might be covered). Thanks!

(in retrospect, a lot of questions, but your input is GREATLY appreciated)

During any time of storage period (Winter, etc):
Do you continue to start it each week, month, etc (certain desired interval)?
What if gas is left in the tanks (mine is a wildcat, so i've tried to keep reseve empty)? I've been using ethanol free, so i'm not sure if you need to put in some stabilizer in the gas during the winter?
Assuming you leave gas in, do you turn off the gas lines and let the engine "run out of gas" to empty fuel lines?
Do you grease all fittings prior to storage or do you wait until next season? Same for oil and fuel filter changes?
I've been trying recently to get under the deck and getting off all dead grass. Assume, good to leave it stored fully clean (seems like a no brainer, but worth asking)
What type of cleaning do you do prior to storage? (Washing deck, waxing, etc)


#2

S

Steve0853

Congratulations on buying a Scag. You have a fine mower.

My son and I cut a few yards on the side and we have a Turf Tiger with 61 inch deck and and V Ride with a 52 inch deck and an older Grasshopper 61 inch.

For the TT and the Grasshopper, I don't worry about the gas in the tank. I use both of them to pull trailers for leaf raking and limb trimming, so I run them often enough in the winter not to have to worry about stale gas.

Also we usually run all the mowers pretty regularly until late November. I see you are in NC as I am, so you will probably get in at least one cutting in November and maybe a cleanup around the Christmas Holidays. Then by March, there's usually a couple customers ready to go, so you see that's only a couple months with no grass mowing. We try to do maintenance in August and again in early March(including oil changes and greasing fittings), so they get some run time then.

As far as trying to start it up every so often, I wouldn't worry about that unless you are letting it set longer than 6 months or so. What I would do just before the spring startup is to put a trickle charger on the battery for a day or so to make sure it has a full charge.

I do take my mowers to the car wash near the end of the mowing season and do a good washing on them, making sure the under side of the deck is cleaned out, too.


#3

M

Mad Mackie

If you need manuals, you can get them on the Scag website. You will need to have the model and serial number from your machine, it is a pdf download that you can print.
You can get engine info from the Kohler website and you will need the info from the engine data to get the correct operators manual.


#4

M

mattdmarie

Steve,
Thanks for the comments! Good to hear from another NC Scag owner! I was thinking about doing the grease fittings around those times, so that validates that for me. I saw another post today on a jack at harbor freight that I was able to get for $60, so i'm going to try and pressure wash the underside to fully clean it prior to those last couple of mows.

Mackie,
I think that was meant for Morson's post?

Thanks for comments so far, keep em coming:)


#5

M

Mad Mackie

Hi matt,
I was under the impression that the Scag was a used machine!! I chat on five different mower/tractor and four model train/real train groups and do get thoughts mixed up some!!! It has something to do with entering what is called the "Golden Years"!!!!:laughing:


#6

M

mattdmarie

Does anyone have any other secrets they'd like to divuldge on how they store their mowers or clean?


#7

M

Mad Mackie

Remove, sharpen or replace blades, but clean the deck with the blades removed.
Clean the underside of the deck, scrape the hard grass off as corrosion will start under the dried stuck on grass.
Install blades, tighten the bolt/nut to the correct torque.
Blow the machine clean with HP air or a leaf blower.
Add correct amount of fuel conditioner to the fuel tank(s), run engine until warm.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Change the air filter if close to being due.
Shut fuel valve off, replace fuel filter, turn fuel valve back on.
Lube the machine, wipe up excess grease, wipe entire machine down if desired
Lube the spindles (different grease from machine).
Run machine until warm.
Change the hydraulic system filter(s) top off with the correct oil.
Run until warm, check hydraulic system fluid level.
Move machine to storage area.
Turn fuel shutoff valve off and run the engine out of fuel (gasoline engine powered machines only). Turn ignition switch to the off position!!
Check the fuel evaporative filter(s) if a newer model machine.
Drain the fuel tanks(your option) but check the manual to see if this is recommended.
I disconnect the battery on my machines. The hourmeter will still show time as it has it's own battery.
If you have mice problems, you can buy a mouse repellant that is in a bag and place the bags in places where mice like to nest. If stored outside, you can still use the mouse repellant but put a tarp over the machine and secure it. Make sure that the exhaust system is cool before putting a tarp over the machine.
With all this done in the fall, your spring start up will be quick and easy!!!
Remove the mice repellant before spring startup!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


#8

djdicetn

djdicetn

Mad Mackie said:
Remove, sharpen or replace blades, but clean the deck with the blades removed.
Clean the underside of the deck, scrape the hard grass off as corrosion will start under the dried stuck on grass.
Install blades, tighten the bolt/nut to the correct torque.
Blow the machine clean with HP air or a leaf blower.
Add correct amount of fuel conditioner to the fuel tank(s), run engine until warm.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Change the air filter if close to being due.
Shut fuel valve off, replace fuel filter, turn fuel valve back on.
Lube the machine, wipe up excess grease, wipe entire machine down if desired
Lube the spindles (different grease from machine).
Run machine until warm.
Change the hydraulic system filter(s) top off with the correct oil.
Run until warm, check hydraulic system fluid level.
Move machine to storage area.
Turn fuel shutoff valve off and run the engine out of fuel (gasoline engine powered machines only). Turn ignition switch to the off position!!
Check the fuel evaporative filter(s) if a newer model machine.
Drain the fuel tanks(your option) but check the manual to see if this is recommended.
I disconnect the battery on my machines. The hourmeter will still show time as it has it's own battery.
If you have mice problems, you can buy a mouse repellant that is in a bag and place the bags in places where mice like to nest. If stored outside, you can still use the mouse repellant but put a tarp over the machine and secure it. Make sure that the exhaust system is cool before putting a tarp over the machine.
With all this done in the fall, your spring start up will be quick and easy!!!
Remove the mice repellant before spring startup!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

WOW.....you definitely didn't leave anything out and that is a VERY thorough seasonal checklist(I printed a copy to keep with my mower info)!!!!

Question, though:

"Change the hydraulic system filter(s) top off with the correct oil."-I have the HydroGear unitized trannies and the first "maintenance" isn't required until it has 75 hours and then like every 150 hours thereafter. I will only put 25-50 hours/year on this mower, so would you still recommend this as a "seasonal" service or should I just follow the maintenance schedule recommended by Gravely/HydroGear and I should be OK????


#9

M

Mad Mackie

Very possibly the manual for your Gravely/ HydroGear transaxles states 75 hours or annually. I don't have much experience with the newer HydroGear transaxles, but from experience with customers has shown me that they forget or postpone these types of maintenance. Transaxle units tend to operate at higher temperatures due to their integral design. Many have a replaceable oil filter and use specific type fluids.
I haven't had a transaxle machine here for service in a while, but the last machine had one rusty oil filter, very dark fluid in both units and were covered in dirt which was affecting the ability of the units to maintain normal operating temperatures. Higher levels of HydroGear units have cooling fans mounted and driven by the unit. My power equipment mechanic friend has commented to me about the units with fans that some stay fairly clean due to the fan and some get excessive crud buildup on them due to the fan, depends on the machine!!!
Mad Mackie in CT


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