No Start Electrical Help Needed Not Electrical Expert

Ok , After applying when using a test lead wire off the positive from the battery post power to thread terminal post solonoid starter spins, clutch pedal starter spins also, reverse switch also but had to swap it with clutch switch to get it to spin the starter, PTO switch starter spins when blades are disengaged, PTO switch starter wont spin when blades are engages just sparks at very low voltage plus I hear is the plunger on the fuel solonoid and all I got was sparks on the seat switch. I have 12v on the key switch. Even tried a new key switch and got nothing. The solonoid ground is clean and tight. Same with the ground on the frame where the reverse switch is. No power no voltage nothing on the wire that hooks to the terminal on the solonoid. So its the PTO switch that bad on blade engage side?
 
Forgive me for perhaps not reading carefully, but did you "beep" out continuity on the lifeless wire. Then try it while wiggling it. Could the wire be "open" (broken internally). Is it fused? Did you jumper in a new , proper gauge wire?

Edit. So during the starter spinning is the starter turning the engine or just loose? Also if you are familiar with the "current" function of your DVM you could try to insert the DVM in current mode to see what kind of load (draw) the starter is. Of course when cranking against compression very high current is drawn (200 amps instantaneously-this would blow the fuse in your DVM only capable of 10 amps) The sparking almost reminds me of a low auto battery which produces chattering at the solenoid contact because it can't latch up due to low current. How do the sparks show themselves?

Also 12V on a bat terminal is not always definitive and never as good as a hydromter check of the electrolyte. If this seems like random raving ignore it all.
 
Post up a pic of the wire diagram.
If you have no voltage at solenoid wire then trace back from that connector.
Do you have connector disconnected from solenoid when checking volts?
If the new solenoid is faulty then the volts can get consumed in the solenoid and show no volts.
 
pugaltitude said:
Post up a pic of the wire diagram.
If you have no voltage at solenoid wire then trace back from that connector.
Do you have connector disconnected from solenoid when checking volts?
If the new solenoid is faulty then the volts can get consumed in the solenoid and show no volts.
Click to expand...

No connector disconnected. The solonoid is new but used a Rotary 3319 instead of the OEM Murray 1002004MA.
 
Here pic of the diagram

murraydiagram_zps00f63822.jpg
 
Any power from S on ign switch? Orange wire.
So check for power going through pto switch.
If no power at pto then check at brake.
if no power at brake then check ign switch output.
As long as pto disengaged and brake engaged then engine should turn over but not start as seat switch comes into play and
If not engaged then no spark from coil.
 
Have you got power going to the ign switch.
Battery thick wire to solenoid and small red with fuse has 12 volts to ign switch.
 
If you are certain grounds and ignition switch is good, barring all wiring is okay then bypass one safety switch at a time.
 
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