No Spark, checked everything I can think of

That is because coil physical shaped changed. I got engines where there are mods to the engine's shroud and cylinders in order to fit the new coil's.

Now if the magnets are strong and there is still no spark with the kill wire then the new is probably bad too. It is not unheard of receiving a bad new coil.
 
I have purchased new coils before and sent mowers out the door then 2days later they return with same problem no start issue remove new coil ohm it out and find its actually above where its supposed to and this is an OEM call they send me replacement before installing I ohm that one and do what same thing so here we go again with some more calls and tech people finally end with an aftermarket that ohm's at 2.75 and not over 6 ohms so I now ohm them all when new.
 
Maybe I can learn something new today. I was under the assumption that today’s coils with Hall effect sensors in the primary circuit can’t be accurately tested with an OHM meter due to internal circuitry. Second question, where are you getting the specs on This coils?
 
Briggs ohm specs are in there manuals your only measuring resistance between secondary and ground and primary and secondary or ground just like checking a motorcycle coil only they work differently but resistance is resistance if the field is broke or then resistance can be low if a capacitor inside is bad then resistance can be high todays coils work much better then yester yrs did as for timing advance when needed now Kohler coils are a different breed and not so simple.
 
It just doesn't make any sense though...releasing the handle creates a connection to ground for the kill wire....so logically, grounding the kill terminal removes power from the coil. If the kill terminal is grounded internally to the coil frame, then the frame of the coil is bolted to the motor, it is making that connection to ground permanently, which logically says the coil will never be able to be powered.
 
HemiMoparGuy1981 said:
It just doesn't make any sense though...releasing the handle creates a connection to ground for the kill wire....so logically, grounding the kill terminal removes power from the coil. If the kill terminal is grounded internally to the coil frame, then the frame of the coil is bolted to the motor, it is making that connection to ground permanently, which logically says the coil will never be able to be powered.
Click to expand...
The coil is not "powered" like a car coil it is self generating like an alternator coil
When the small wire is grounded the coil produces no spark & the engine stops
When the wire is open circuit power is accumulated in the coil which goes to ground through the spark plug
To simplify things.
So to run that wire must be open circuit to ground
To stop it must be closed circuit to ground.
 
You might check to see if there's any voltage going through the kill wire to the coil. From what I understand, that'll blow a coil.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
The coil is not "powered" like a car coil it is self generating like an alternator coil
When the small wire is grounded the coil produces no spark & the engine stops
When the wire is open circuit power is accumulated in the coil which goes to ground through the spark plug
To simplify things.
So to run that wire must be open circuit to ground
To stop it must be closed circuit to ground.
Click to expand...
Right, I get that...it is powered by the magnetism...But with the primary coil internally grounded, the spark powered by the magnets goes right to ground instead of charging the secondary and creating a spark. But I have 3 coils that are internally grounded at the kill wire, and no spark with the correct spacing with feeler gauge, plenty strong magnets, kill wire ohmming out, switch acting as it should (open when handle is down, grounded when released) There isn't much to this stupid circuit, but it still isn't working.
 
There is no way to bench test small engine coils without special big bucks equipment. The only test you can Do is test the secondary resistance with should be 2500-5000 ohms if good. There is no test for the primary circuit, so if you are trying to test this, you are just wasting your time. Brian, your primary ohms specs are for coils used in points engines. I used to have a schematic of a coil with a Hall effect sensor, (which I can’t find) but if I remember right there are there are three different circuits, one of which is grounded, but it is not the kill circuit. I think you are overthinking this and assuming it works a certain way. Anyone who has had to troubleshoot electrical problems knows that assuming only gets you in trouble. Having one bad new coil happens, two bad maybe, three bad something is not being done right. At this point I suggest that you take a coil off a running engine and install it on your unit. If it doesn’t fire, something in your procedure is wrong, especially if you put it back on the running unit and it works.
 
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