new to forum and riding mower

[goldacres]

...there's a forum for everything isn't there!?...

I just inherited a MTD riding mower 15.5 HP Briggs and Stratton from my father-in-law.
It is about 5 years old and has not been run for 4 of those years. Was covered under a tarp in Central Valley of California and was used to mow lawns of the elderly by my in-law's dad who passed away 4 years ago.
Gas tank has about 1/2 liter of putrid gas. Engine bay has a slight oil film covering most elements.
I've got a blown front tire from the trailer ride from low tires and ratcheting down.

I'm planning on doing the low cost to no cost troubleshooting first, but will probably end up buying a new battery, new fuel filter and spark plug.

I intend to replace the fuel after draining and pouring in this "Mechanic in a Bottle" stuff that worked on my blower. I've read/heard cleaning the carb "bowl" is a must... what else?

 

[scott47429]

clean the carb real good probably some it over night and blow all the ports out with air put it back on clean out the old gas and clean the tank replace the plug put in a battery check the oil and try to start it and see what happens then kinda go from there but if the gas in the tanks and carb if 4 yrs old its bad and will need cleaned its turned to varnish good luck

 

[pondman]

I'm planning on doing the low cost to no cost troubleshooting first, but will probably end up buying a new battery, new fuel filter and spark plug.

I intend to replace the fuel after draining and pouring in this "Mechanic in a Bottle" stuff that worked on my blower. I've read/heard cleaning the carb "bowl" is a must... what else?

I'm with scot47429.
I'd take the carb apart and spray it--depending on the model. You might need to eventually, anyway; Some of the seals might erode with the Mechanic in a Bottle solution. Change the oil. You should clean and rinse out the tank. Change the fuel line. Sounds like a nice 15 HP machine-- probably cost +$1200 to replace. I wouldn't do it the quick and easy way. Might cost you more in the long run.

 

[goldacres]

Thanks pndmand and Scott for the reply. I cleaned the carb with cleaner and drained the tank completely (did not clean it out). I replaced the fuel filter. All fuel lines looked to be in decent condition as did gaskets and seals. I replaced the spark plug as well and did my best to clean the air filter.

I have not replaced the battery yet as I was hopeful after trickle charging I would get something. I charged it overnight and then again just prior to attempting to start. No surprise, but I got nothing- no click, no dim headlight, nothing.

Just an update... a battery is next... stay tuned...

 

[Rivets]

This might help. Re: Craftsman 21.5hp electric start 6 speed model # 917.272452
LawnRanger came up with this diagnostic sequence which I found very good. I modified it a little. Hope this helps you.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[Rivets]

This might help.

LawnRanger came up with this diagnostic sequence which I found very good. I modified it a little. Hope this helps you.

Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[Lawnranger]

Hi Rivets,

Thanks for the credit. I really like the changes you made and your choice of words makes it a little more diplomatic - must be the instructor in you. :thumbsup: I'm looking forward to finding out if there are any more changes needed and seeing how it works with a new person on the forum i.e. if they can follow the instructions as worded or if we need to improve anything. Hopefully goldacres will give us some feedback as to how easy this procedure is to follow but most important that it helps get the mower fixed in as little time as possible.

 

[goldacres]

Reviving this old thread; I got the engine to start finally! At first it wouldn't even crank. After disconnecting and reconnecting the sylenoid and key switch and cleaning the switches for the blades and the brake switch, it turned over and started!

Now, the problem is I can't get it to run without the choke on. Once remove the choke on the throttle and put it in "fast" or "slow" it sputters and dies.

I notice that I have a fair amout of white smoke coming out of the muffler. I figure this is to be expected with starting an engine that has not been run for 4 or 5 years. With the air cleaner removed, I've got a lot of gas sputtering up and presumably gas spitting out of the muffler. What is my next step here?

I've got a new spark plug (probably fouled by now), new fuel filter and a new battery. Newer gas and a cleaned carb. (bad gasket from carb to engine as it leaks a drip or so every 10 seconds- will change after getting it to run) I've got it to start probably 4 or 5 times and tried to get the bad gas through the system (if there was any left after draining from filter and tank) but still can't keep her running.

 

[Rivets]

Sounds like your carb needs a good soaking bath in carb cleaner. You've got a carb that has the high speed circuit plugged. It is going to take either a bath or ultrasonic cleaning to get that gunk out.

 

[Kodie's Lawn Service]

clean the carb real good probably some it over night and blow all the ports out with air put it back on clean out the old gas and clean the tank replace the plug put in a battery check the oil and try to start it and see what happens then kinda go from there but if the gas in the tanks and carb if 4 yrs old its bad and will need cleaned its turned to varnish good luck

This and replace the oil and air filter if it is dirt if not to bad then just blow it off :thumbsup: