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Had a lot of rotten spots in the old floor and been meaning to install new wood. Finally got around to it. I used treated lumber and also spread some Thompsons water seal on it. I added some grit to the sealer for the top of the boards. The way I got the old boards out and the new ones in was to cut slits in the metal and then bent the pieces back to create a slot slightly bigger than the boards. Once I had the new boards in I bent and hammered the metal back in place. Worked out great.
Also wirebrushed the frame and spread on some rust converter and primed it.
Took most of a day but it should last a lifetime. Mine anyway

They don't make it easy to replace the board on these things huh? Mine boards are fit into 3 sided metal on both sides built so you basically take the whole trailer apart to replace them. I cut the metal in from just the top of the boards so that it seperated from the other two sides and it bolts through the boards and into the bottom of the metal so its all there just removable. I also used treated 2x6 I thought about using some grit for traction. Let me know how long it holds up

Any before and after pictures?

exotion said:

They don't make it easy to replace the board on these things huh? Mine boards are fit into 3 sided metal on both sides built so you basically take the whole trailer apart to replace them. I cut the metal in from just the top of the boards so that it seperated from the other two sides and it bolts through the boards and into the bottom of the metal so its all there just removable. I also used treated 2x6 I thought about using some grit for traction. Let me know how long it holds up

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No kidding. I didn't know that they laid the boards in and then welded the top metal part. At least thats the only way I can figure they could have done it.
Your way sounds good too. I'll let you know about the grit. It should last almost as long as the Thompsons... 6 months to a year or so. Maybe longer if I'm lucky.

gabowman said:

Any before and after pictures?

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Got before pics I'm sure and I can get after pics. During pics might have been better I'll get some pics tomorrow. This will have to do for before pics:

I don't have any pictures to show you but you can also cut the bad board into with a jigsaw or saws all. Then take the board you want to put back on and cut it to the right length. Stick one end under the metal lay a piece of 2X4 across under it turned up edge ways. Have somebody stand on the other end so that it is lower than the metal it needs to go under. The take a sledge hammer and drive the 2X4 out from under it. When it springs back out straight it will be underneath the metal on both ends. I have a 12' trailer that had to have some boards replaced and that is how my son and a helpers put them in.

jekjr said:

I don't have any pictures to show you but you can also cut the bad board into with a jigsaw or saws all. Then take the board you want to put back on and cut it to the right length. Stick one end under the metal lay a piece of 2X4 across under it turned up edge ways. Have somebody stand on the other end so that it is lower than the metal it needs to go under. The take a sledge hammer and drive the 2X4 out from under it. When it springs back out straight it will be underneath the metal on both ends. I have a 12' trailer that had to have some boards replaced and that is how my son and a helpers put them in.

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That would work too. All my boards were rotten on the ends. The trailer was built in 2008 or '09. I'm thinking these boards will last a lot longer than the old ones.
Some after pics...
Where I made the cuts. First tried the two outside cuts you see. It was too hard to bend up so I made more cuts.

and so on...

Mike88se said:

That would work too. All my boards were rotten on the ends. The trailer was built in 2008 or '09. I'm thinking these boards will last a lot longer than the old ones.
Some after pics...
Where I made the cuts. First tried the two outside cuts you see. It was too hard to bend up so I made more cuts.
View attachment 21713
and so on...
View attachment 21714
View attachment 21715

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I have a cheap trailor, all sheet metal floor, slipery when wet, or with snow on it, I just lay the boards down and wedge the sides so they dont move,, that leaves the tie downs open , and I can remove boards if I want to use them for scafolding, for repairs on sheds or roof job,

exotion said:

I also used treated 2x6 I thought about using some grit for traction. Let me know how long it holds up

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exotion- Not trailer but my bike loading ramp is a 2 x 12, that got pretty slick when wet.. I added some sand into enough paint to give the run way a good heavy coat..
The traction Is excellent, Paint I used was old oil base, but still holding up fine over 10 yrs now.

I do bike work, so it gets use a lot.. :thumbsup: