new easy RTV sealant

Slomo have you ever seen the Kohler Courage Single to leak due poor RTV sealing of the rocker cover? If something is easy to remove usually means it don't stick very well.
 
Looks like it would work. Looks like it would not have to stick like regular RTV.as long as it fills the gaps and is tightened properly it should hold just fine.
 
Well the instruction are different.

Permatex Optimum Easy Disassembly Grey RTV
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
For assembly as form-in-place gasket
1. Remove all previous material from mating surfaces. Permatex Silicone Stripper or Gasket Remover is recommended for most materials, not for plastics or painted surfaces.

2. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner.

3. Cut nozzle to desired bead size, 1/16 “ to 1/4 “ in diameter. An 1/8” bead is usually sufficient for most applications.

4. Remove cap, puncture tube or cartridge seal and attach extension nozzle.

5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes as shown below:

6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Secure or tighten to recommended torque specs.

7. Re-torque will not be necessary after the product has cured.

TYPICAL CURING PERFORMANCE
Permatex Optimum Grey Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket cures on exposure to moisture in the air. The product dries tack free in two
hours and fully cures in 24 hours. Cure times will vary with temperature, humidity and gap.


This would squeeze out most of the product. Same instructions for Ultra Grey but I still prefer to use the Ultra Black instructions.

Permatex Ultra Black

For assembly as a form-in-place gasket

1. Remove all previous material from mating surfaces. Permatex Gasket Remover is recommended for most
materials, not for plastics or painted surfaces.

2. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex Brake and
Parts Cleaner

3. Cut nozzle to desired bead size, 1/16” to 1/4” in diameter. A 1/8” bead is usually sufficient for most
applications.

4. Remove cap, puncture tube or cartridge seal and attach extension nozzle.

5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket
configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes.

6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet.

7. Finger tighten flange only until material begins to seep out the sides of the flange.

8. Allow to set for at least two hours and re-torque at least one quarter to one half turn.
(Here I just torque to specs after allowing step 9 to complete and still its still a little uncured.)

9. For best results, allow to cure overnight.
(This is where you don't start the engine until this time is past for best sealing as oil getting on
the RTV will prevent any of them from fully curing as it take air moisture to cure. Be patient for good results.)

TYPICAL CURING PERFORMANCE
Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker cures on exposure to moisture in the air. The product dries tack free in two
hours and fully cures in 24 hours. Cure times will vary with temperature, humidity and gap.

Permatex does rate the newer Permatex Optimum Easy Disassembly Grey for 150F higher temperature than the Ultra Grey.
 
You might also read up on Permatex Super High-Tack RTV Silicone Sealant #80060 (the #80060 is the 1.75 oz. tube - I think there's a larger tube also available).

It's the latest "refinement/breakthru" beyond traditional RTV sealer which was far from the ideal solution. Permatex touts it as "A superior alternative to weatherstrip adhesive", which apparently is/was a popular traditional practice.

Rated to 400°F.

I just this week settled on that for new valve cover gasket on my '85 F150 4.9L in-line 6. All the parts stores appear to stock it.

They give 2 methods of use: One method for "Light duty and semi-permanent assemblies" (apply to gasket and mating surface, let dry to "tacky", then press into position, avoid stress on bonded parts for 3 hrs.); other method for "Heavy duty and permanent assemblies" (same as @light duty method, but apply a second layer to the base surface just before pressing into position, avoid stress on bonded parts for 3 hours).

It never fully cures, but is impervious to all engine fluids.

YMMV...
 
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