My babys sick!

[aka rotten]

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Ok gents got a problem for you to help me with with my old 285 mod JohnDeere
Quick general history,Tractor looks as new ,always serviced by dealer.Problem started year ago with overheating after 10 min of use.Been back to dealer 4 times with same problem.They did following,2 new thermostates,radiator flushes, 3 times,new hoses,New waterpump,New heat senser,New radiator caps,2 times,New heads 2 times,Finally removed engine replaced gaskets thruout engine.Engine starts up and runs as new for 10 min before overheating still.I never let it boil over been shut down always when indicator starts to get to warm.Dealer has givin up they dont know what else to do,so i,ll give it to the experts.By the way Its John deere 285 as stated,S/N MOO285BO21672.Thanks,Paul

 

[Grassbandit]

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Ok gents got a problem for you to help me with with my old 285 mod JohnDeere
Quick general history,Tractor looks as new ,always serviced by dealer.Problem started year ago with overheating after 10 min of use.Been back to dealer 4 times with same problem.They did following,2 new thermostates,radiator flushes, 3 times,new hoses,New waterpump,New heat senser,New radiator caps,2 times,New heads 2 times,Finally removed engine replaced gaskets thruout engine.Engine starts up and runs as new for 10 min before overheating still.Inever let it boil over been shut down always when indicator statrs to get to warm.Dealer has givin up they dont know what else to do,so i,ll give it to the experts.By the way Its John deere 285 as stated,S/N MOO285BO21672.Thanks,Paul

Is the fan set up to spin full time on this machine?

 

[aka rotten]

Is the fan set up to spin full time on this machine?

Thanks for reply, Fan is set up like older cars runs when engine runs, Fan is in great shape also. Thanks, Paul

 

[logan01]

What's the temps during running before indicator illuminates, illuminated but running, after illumination and shutdown? Is there much difference between input/output radiator hose temps? Have you removed the radiator and tested flow through the radiator? Do you have a thermal gun?

 

[aka rotten]

What's the temps during running before indicator illuminates, illuminated but running, after illumination and shutdown? Is there much difference between input/output radiator hose temps? Have you removed the radiator and tested flow through the radiator? Do you have a thermal gun?

Does not have temp .readout just light .Paperwork shows where they flushed 3 times and it help pressure overnight,thats all i can tell you about that.Thanks .Also paperwork shows they tried another radiator in it with no change in overheating.Thanks,Paul

 

[bertsmobile1]

There is a massive difference between flushing and cleaning and rodding.
So the cheapest thing is to run some radiator cleaner through the engine according to the instructions.
if that does not work then two options
1) take the radiator out to a radiator shop & get it rodded
2) replace the temperature sender.

Also rip off the water pump and check it out.
You don't need much wear/ corrosion in the impeller to drastically reduce the water flow.

If all that fails then you might have to resort to pulling the welch plugs and cleaning the block.
you can get a staggering amount of sediment building up in the block.

Thermionic cameras ( light meter on steroids ) can be used to shoot the block & find hot spots but it is oft cheaper just to do the clean up

 

[BillyP]

Have you tested, or replaced, the temp gauge?

 

[aka rotten]

Does not have temp .readout just light .Paperwork shows where they flushed 3 times and it held pressure overnight,thats all i can tell you about that.Thanks .Also paperwork shows they tried another radiator in it with no change in overheating.Thanks,Paul

They tried a new radiator in it with same results, Also removed engine and installed new gaskets thru out. So again new gaskets thru out engine,new heat senser.new hoses,New wter pump. old radiator flushed 2 times. fan in as new condition. After 10 min. sencer lights up and radiator will steam if I don't shut it down. Dealer has givin up. Bout flustrated.But keep ideas commin.Paul

 

[logan01]

Have you or others made sure all the air is burped out of the cooling system? Have you observed the coolant with engine running, radiator cap removed to observe circulation when the thermostat opens? Just for grins, elevate the front of the mower using a slope, boards, etc and run engine with cap off. Observe for bubbles. If you have bubbles they will travel upward and out. If this happens, additional coolant will likely be needed to replace the once trapped air. Does you system have an overflow reservoir/expansion tank and it's topped off and functioning correctly? Additionally, Have you tested the system running with no thermostat? Does the oil smell burned? What do the spark plugs look like (too lean)? Did the shop set the timing by the book or just a wag? Did the make sure the coolant jacket on the block is free and clear?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well there are only a couple of options.
Crack in the block / head
or clogged water jacket.
I use to run hire cars and we had to pull the rear welch plugs on the V 8 rollers every 4-5 years and clean all the built up rust & debris.
This was most annoting asa they all got proper anti freeze / corrosion inhibitor and even an external water filter but they still build up enough crud to overheat the rear pots.
Take it to a cooling specialist so they can do a hydrocarbons test this will either confirm a crack or eliminate it.
Some mechanics have the kit as well but few mower shops as there are SFA water cooled mowers so the ger ( which is not cheap ) is not need.