Mower runs well...then quits after 30 minutes or so

Lots of carb soaks but they sell under different named=s down here.
The good ones come in sealed can & have a basket.
Boiling in bi pot with 2 or 3 dishwashwer tablets works well but you must take it out and dunk it in a second pot of boiling water to prevent the soap drying in the tiny holes to rinse it.
 
The auto parts store sells 1 gallon cans of Berryman chem-dip for $27. They also sell 12 ounce spray cans of Berryman carb cleaner for $5.

Can I spray out to cans into a bucket and soak the carb parts? Not sure if it’s the same stuff or not.

Does Pine Sol work?
 
I’ve removed and disassembled the carburetor.

Is it necessary to remove the plastic choke plate shaft or can I leave that in place? Doesn’t come out easily and I don’t want to break it.

Should I remove the fuel screw? Or the low limit screw? Any tricks to making sure I put them back in the same position?
 
Spray carb cleaner is 90% propellent and 10% cleaner which is why you can use it for starting.
The choke & throttle butterflys can stay in unless they are very stiff.
Turn jets in till they seat lightly while counting the number of turns
Write the number down the instant you take the screwdriver off it then screw it fully out.
Photograph the screw before you touch them as a second refference .
You can boil the carbs in a stainless 1/2 gallon pot ( or bigger ) with several dishwasher tablets.
If you do this it must be rinsed twice in clean boiling water.
Once dipped for 5 minutes and the second time just washed off.
 
Last question of the night.

How do I get the black cap off the idle low limit screw? The one that limits rotation? Does it slide off the end? Then I can back the screw out? Just don’t want to break it.
 
You can break off the tit that keeps the screw from turning past the stop bosses. Or, pull it off the screw head.

Max
 
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