mower just died running

[slomo]

So I think I have a connection that is poor or corroded. Started to focus on the white wires since I have resistance on my ohm meter when the key is at the start position on the M post of the ignition. Talked to a guy at the ferris dealer near me and he pointed to the control arm switches not having good connection and creating a slight resistance that will kill the coils. Currently in the process of pulling all the connectors out and hitting them with a wire brush. Sounds terrible but its really pretty easy. After that only thing I can think of is a bare wire grounding to the frame.

Blazed over every word I typed out in reply #8.

 

[rinse]

Blazed over every word I typed out in reply #8.

Sorry if it seemed like I did, but I also have to ground the green wire on the relay. It won’t turn over if I don’t. But when I ground the green wire, I don’t get spark unless I pull the white wires on the coils. That’s why I was going back and cleaning connections and making sure all the plugs have good contact.

Please let me know if you believe there is a better solution to find the issue.

 

[ILENGINE]

I have a ferris IS3100 with 26 LC kawasaki. My son was driving the mower and it just died in the field. I towed it back to my barn and started messing with it. This is what I have done:
Continuity tested switches and all seem good
Checked the PTO and it clicks when pulled
Checked red wire at start from battery 12.5+ volts
Checked relays, one was bad so I replaced both
Checked the fuses, all good there
Checked the volts at the ignition switch and they seem good
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the time delay module - ferris mechanic told me this was the issue, it wasn't... lol
New battery
Green on relay terminal 86 would allow mower to crank if I ground it out
If I run a wire from S on the ignition to the location of the yellow wire it will turn over but will not run.

What am I missing?

Pulled the coil kill wires and I can get spark when I ground the green wire in the replay. Magneto is had continuity to ground on off, not grounded on run, but grounded on start (wont send spark to plugs when grounded).

View attachment 73111View attachment 73111

When the bottom relay received power from the time delay module it energizes the coil which closes the contacts between 30 and 87. When 30 and 87 close on the bottom relay is creates the ground path(green wire) for the top relay to energize which closes the path betwen the 30 and 87 contacts to energize the starter.

 

[jcosse]

I have a ferris IS3100 with 26 LC kawasaki. My son was driving the mower and it just died in the field. I towed it back to my barn and started messing with it. This is what I have done:
Continuity tested switches and all seem good
Checked the PTO and it clicks when pulled
Checked red wire at start from battery 12.5+ volts
Checked relays, one was bad so I replaced both
Checked the fuses, all good there
Checked the volts at the ignition switch and they seem good
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the time delay module - ferris mechanic told me this was the issue, it wasn't... lol
New battery
Green on relay terminal 86 would allow mower to crank if I ground it out
If I run a wire from S on the ignition to the location of the yellow wire it will turn over but will not run.

What am I missing?

Pulled the coil kill wires and I can get spark when I ground the green wire in the replay. Magneto is had continuity to ground on off, not grounded on run, but grounded on start (wont send spark to plugs when grounded).

View attachment 73111View attachment 73111

Did you check the fuel solenoid and the wire going to it? Never mind, I just read that you aren’t getting a spark.

 

[Rebel1]

I have a ferris IS3100 with 26 LC kawasaki. My son was driving the mower and it just died in the field. I towed it back to my barn and started messing with it. This is what I have done:
Continuity tested switches and all seem good
Checked the PTO and it clicks when pulled
Checked red wire at start from battery 12.5+ volts
Checked relays, one was bad so I replaced both
Checked the fuses, all good there
Checked the volts at the ignition switch and they seem good
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the time delay module - ferris mechanic told me this was the issue, it wasn't... lol
New battery
Green on relay terminal 86 would allow mower to crank if I ground it out
If I run a wire from S on the ignition to the location of the yellow wire it will turn over but will not run.

What am I missing?

Pulled the coil kill wires and I can get spark when I ground the green wire in the replay. Magneto is had continuity to ground on off, not grounded on run, but grounded on start (wont send spark to plugs when grounded).

View attachment 73111View attachment 73111

With it dying all of a sudden I would check the low oil sensor, just unplug it and see if it will start up.

 

[RevB]

I have a ferris IS3100 with 26 LC kawasaki. My son was driving the mower and it just died in the field. I towed it back to my barn and started messing with it. This is what I have done:
Continuity tested switches and all seem good
Checked the PTO and it clicks when pulled
Checked red wire at start from battery 12.5+ volts
Checked relays, one was bad so I replaced both
Checked the fuses, all good there
Checked the volts at the ignition switch and they seem good
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the time delay module - ferris mechanic told me this was the issue, it wasn't... lol
New battery
Green on relay terminal 86 would allow mower to crank if I ground it out
If I run a wire from S on the ignition to the location of the yellow wire it will turn over but will not run.

What am I missing?

Pulled the coil kill wires and I can get spark when I ground the green wire in the replay. Magneto is had continuity to ground on off, not grounded on run, but grounded on start (wont send spark to plugs when grounded).

View attachment 73111View attachment 73111

One would hope you released the pumps before towing or did you just drag it back.
"3. To disengage the pumps (free-wheel position),
turn the hydraulic release valves (A, Figure 2)
located on the pumps COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a
maximum of 2 full turns."

 

[rinse]

One would hope you released the pumps before towing or did you just drag it back.
"3. To disengage the pumps (free-wheel position),
turn the hydraulic release valves (A, Figure 2)
located on the pumps COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a
maximum of 2 full turns."

Yes I released the hydraulic valves, didn’t just tow it.

 

[rinse]

When the bottom relay received power from the time delay module it energizes the coil which closes the contacts between 30 and 87. When 30 and 87 close on the bottom relay is creates the ground path(green wire) for the top relay to energize which closes the path betwen the 30 and 87 contacts to energize the starter.

If I pull the relay on the bottom relay and put a jumper on green to black it will start. Taking it to a shop this week, I'm at the limit of what I can figure out.

 

[ILENGINE]

If I pull the relay on the bottom relay and put a jumper on green to black it will start. Taking it to a shop this week, I'm at the limit of what I can figure out.

From your description either the bottom relay isn't operating or you are not getting power from the time delay module. Or possibly the time delay module isn't getting power from its source.