Here's a GREAT product I've used for many years, just have to get off the heavy crusted surface rust, then paint this right over it I worked at a marina ( salt-water ) and we used this stuff on everything metal everywhere , I used it on the underside of my deck and on a few places on top before I used the red-oxide primer,
http://www.pettitpaint.com/products/primers/below-the-waterline/rustlok-steel-primer/
scroll down and read the product data sheet.....
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Nice job, the stuff looks good but the important thing is it bonds to BARE STEEL or RUST, not old paintwork.
Worth noting that you did a bare metal strip.
People who know & understand how these finishing systems work take the time & make the effort to do full bare metal strips.
Joe Average who only knows what they see in paint company video presentations still believe you can just knock off the loose rust then slap on some paint & all will be fine.
It does not work that way.
The stuff looks a bit more user friendly than POR 15 which will go off in the can if you store it for too long.
However the warning about gluing the lid on is interesting as I generally put a layer of cling warp over the POR 15 can having suffered the lid gluing on at one time and all we could do was cut the top off the can.
We painted the badly rusted floor with lots of rust pin holes on one of the hire cars with POR 15 chassis coat back in 82. Did not bother with a top coat because it was going to be covered by the carpets.
In 2010 I sold the car which we had not used for over 5 years and found it had been sitting outside with a window open enough to let the rain in.
The wool carpet had rotted away and the seat supports were also rusted through but the floor pan was just as sound as the day we put the carpet back.
What I would stress is the quality of the finish is dependent upon the quality of the preperation and the OP just wanted to knock off the loose rust then paint over.
This will not work with any paint.
Alkaloid & 2 packs will hang on for a while but eventually will fall off or rust through.
All steel I paint gets POR 15 chassis coat then usually an alkaloid top coat.
For mower decks, the strait POR 15 on the underside and POR 15 with an alkaloid top coat on the outside as I have alkaloids in most common colour matches.
Decks that have flaps, over the discharge chute never rust again and the POR 15 chassis coat is still sound on some decks I did for my commercial customers 3 years ago.
When I said bullets bounce off it I mean bullets bounce off it.
We had to remover some one time and nothing touched it.
The sand blaster eventually wore through but it took near 50 lbs of sand to wear off a small patch.
This was before we realized that if you flip it up into the sunlight, UV eventually ( several months ) will cause the surface to start to powder the same as it does to regular paint, just quicker.
So sun, blasting the sun & more blasting eventually got down to bare metal.
The POR 15 that dripped onto the drive took about 2 years to crumble and wear off.
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Where you really notice how tough the stuff can be is on things like tensioning arms.
The original finish usually wears through at the pivot in less than one season.
POR 15 coated tensioning arms have gone better than 4 years and the coating is still sound.