Motor won't turn over

Labrauer

Member
I have a Kohler Command 20 single cylinder engine I just been working on. Did an overhaul on the engine. Put it all together and on the tractor, Put new rings, had the cylinder honed checked the clearance on the ring gap in the cylinder, checked the timing, did a valve grind, got a new starter and new battery, checked the valve clearance. the timing marks on the crank and the cam gears are lined up with the dots on the crank. Both cam gears have two marks on them, but I put them back in the way they were marked with black IN and EX to the dots. All seems to be good but if I take the plug out the motor spends like it should and when I install the plug the motor only spends maybe 1 1/2 a turn and stops spinning. I can't figure out what's the problem. I have spark, gas ect. the battery has 12.34 amps on it. Can anyone give me some suggestions on what the problem might be. And one last thing on the throttle hookup there a spring that's about an inch long that says it's a governor spring in the book that I can't find where it hooks to. I know the small spring on the metal rod hooks to the throttle on the carb. and it's hooked up. Any pictures of the hookup would be nice. Thanks in advance.
 
Okay you don't have Command but is a Courage engine. Commands has hydraulic lifters and a single camshaft. Courage uses two gears with none hydraulic lifters.

Now make sure the cam gear for the exhaust has the ACR assembly not the intake.
 
Okay you don't have Command but is a Courage engine. Commands has hydraulic lifters and a single camshaft. Courage uses two gears with none hydraulic lifters.

Now make sure the cam gear for the exhaust has the ACR assembly not the intake.
You are right it is a courage motor my mistake and yes the acr is on the exhaust. I put my finger over the spark plug hole and spun the engine (sv600) over till it pushed my finger away on compressor stroke. The ignition module and the magnet don't line up so does that mean it's out of timing and it is how do I get it back into timing?
 
How do I fix that? The ACR is on the exhaust cam gear.
If the ACR was intact when you rebuilt the engine, then that is not your problem. First, charge battery to 12.75 volts. 12.3 volts is only about 50% charged. Second, check all electrical connections and clean and tighten as needed. Third, check the valve lash and make sure it is in spec. Do these three things in order and the engine should spin over strong and start fine.
 
IF you haven't glued [RTV] the rocker on yet with it off turn the engine through two complete turns. Now with the exhaust valve as it approaches one of the TDCs it will momentary open slightly to release some of the compression then both valves will be closed on the power stroke. If it don't either the valve clearance is too great or the ACR is not working. This is a non-invasive way of the checking the ACR operation.

Just a note I have seen starter on these engines to bind up due bushing wear. It is another possible thing to check.
 
If the ACR was intact when you rebuilt the engine, then that is not your problem. First, charge battery to 12.75 volts. 12.3 volts is only about 50% charged. Second, check all electrical connections and clean and tighten as needed. Third, check the valve lash and make sure it is in spec. Do these three things in order and the engine should spin over strong and start fine.
Set the back lash on the valves and the engine now turning with starter. The engine still doesn't start so I took the plug out held finger in hole turned the engine over until pressure pushed finger out but noticed the flywheel magnet doesn't line up with the coil. The flywheel magnet is about 5 or 6 inches to the right so I'm guessing the timing off. Now with that being said I need help (information) on how to get it in time. Any help or pictures would be appreciated.
 
Have you check the flywheel key? Remove the flywheel retaining screw and check for key way alignment. When reinstalling the retaining screw torque as follows. The flywheel must torque to spec or it will shear the key. Just note the flywheel magnets and coil will always be slightly offset a little due timing advance but not 5+ inches, we talking around a 1/4 inch or so.

Use a flywheel strap wrench or holding tool to hold flywheel and torque screw. For an M10 screw, torque to 66.5
N·m (49 ft. lb.). For an M12 screw, torque to 88.0 N·m (65 ft. lb.).
 
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