Lower seal missing 10515?

Both top and bottom seals can be replaced with out disassembling the short block. Either by using the Lawn Boy seal remover tool or by VERY carefully using a small screw driver and prying them out. Put no pressure or very little on the lip of the seal bore. CAREFULLY side the screw driver between the crankshaft and the rubber lip and under the steel ledge of the seal. Pry upward. You can lay a thin piece of wood flat next to block to pry against to protect the edge of the bore lip. Do not scratch the crank surface.
 
A seal is a seal. If you can get to the seal and the crankcase housing doesn't have a lip over the top of the seal its removable. What I do most of the time when removing this style seal is drill a small hole into the steel part of the seal and install a small sheet metal screw into it. Then you can pull the seal out with that screw. some times it takes two screws.
 
oh ok most of the time if the seals are gone on the top and bottom it is time to rebuild the motor if not in
a year or to you will be back to tinkering with it all over again and spend more time and money.
 
oh ok most of the time if the seals are gone on the top and bottom it is time to rebuild the motor if not in
a year or to you will be back to tinkering with it all over again and spend more time and money.

In a four stroke you are dealing with seals meant to hold oil in the crank case...in a two cycle they are to hold in compression as the crank case developes possitive and negitive pressures that opperate the reed valves...two diffrent animals.
 
Replace both seals and use the mower for another ten years. It may be that the bottom seal fell down and someone removed the pulley and blade collar and seal and never bothered to install a new seal.
 
In a four stroke you are dealing with seals meant to hold oil in the crank case...in a two cycle they are to hold in compression as the crank case developes possitive and negitive pressures that opperate the reed valves...two diffrent animals.

I do work on some two cycle engines, but not very often anymore. In my younger years I did a lot of snowmobile engine work which were all 2 cycle. I will still say it again, a seal is a seal. You buy them by number or size and yes there are different styles, but they all do the same job.
 
I do work on some two cycle engines, but not very often anymore. In my younger years I did a lot of snowmobile engine work which were all 2 cycle. I will still say it again, a seal is a seal. You buy them by number or size and yes there are different styles, but they all do the same job.

The point as that a four stroke runs in a bath of its own dirt and particulates and is far more likely to have bearing and bushing wear causing crankshaft play, and therefore seal damage.
A two cycle runs in fresh oil and is less likely to have bearing or bushing damage, and therefore less likely to have seal damage caused by crankshaft play. Since a two cycle does not have a crankcase full of oil and IS subject to rapid pulsations it is more likely to fail for other reasons, especially dry rot if it has sat for a few years.
Again...they are diffrent animals
 
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