looking for carb for Shop Force AT 04103 generator

Hello T.,

James Condon goes into a lot of detail on this style of generator, but it may take a few videos to find a model that he is working on that is similar to what you have. These were a "private label" generator sold under several different names and paint schemes. This one came under the name of Alton. Champion is one of the more common brands they use at the moment.

See what you Hertz measure is without a load, then see what it shows if you connect a space heater as a load. Ideally 60-61.5 Hertz with a load is your target setting. That is if you are in the U.S.

Some of these small generators are a bit of trial an error to get dialed in.

The governor arm has multiple holes for the tension spring location, do not try to make changes to the spring while it is running. There will be some stopping and starting required.

If it has an AVR, the is a tiny screw slot used to fine tune the voltage setting, but that cannot be tinker with while running.

 
Star, you’ve got me on that one, as I’ve never heard of 130 VAC with 60 hz. Pushing that amount of amperage with 130 VAC will burn out a lot of small appliances.
 
Well that what it is around here. Here is the voltage with the heating, refrig, and hot heater currently pulling juice.
1766510405214.png
Now you understand why the bills are higher than they should be...
 
Standard 60 hz provided by TVA. And forgot to mention there is two other households on the same transformer. Across the state line the voltage was closer to 135 vac at my previous home but the electric rates a lot less. It is a lot to do with 13 kv lines from the substation. Probably a lot higher voltage than that before being to changed to 240-260 circuit at the transformers.
1766516571780.png
 
With that hertz and voltage high draw appliances (fridge, microwave, hot water heater, stove) will have a shorter life. This will be due to overheating. In smaller appliances you will find that the cords will get hot, as will older wiring and this will be a fire hazard.
 
Heck things like electric perks and spacer heater already come with cords that have small wire gauge. I usually replace the cords right a way on any of them. My current perker cord never get hot. Previous one on it did and actual started melting the plug at the wall outlet. I now get faster coffee than before or hot water for a cup tea.

Personally I wouldn't have a space heater unless a heavier cord was installed. Just don't to burn the house down like the previous owners did to their two story house.

BTW the difference is less than 10% so a 20amp device at 120 only draws less than 22 amps [21.86]. which is less than 460 watts above the 2400 watts at 120v.
The main problem is the voltage drop of the conductors.

And you definitely don't want aluminum wiring. Many homes burnt because its use.
 
A bit more status related to my generator saga: I purchased a Kill-A-Watt and observed a frequency of ~62Hz no load, and ~61Hz when powering a load. Voltage was in the 122-125vac range. I'm calling this a wrap. Thanks for the help from all you gurus!
 
You are running 60 rpm above the 3600 rpm under load. So if you getting 62 hz unloaded that is within the spec of 3750 rpms. So your governor droop is around 100 rpms.
 
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