lgt2654 running on one cylinder ideas please

I inherited two B & S V twins with the stock of used bits from Bert when I bought the business, marked "OK needs new rod"
After pulling them down I could not believe what I saw.
Both had dropped the cap off the end of one con rod and the cap was sitting happily in the bottom of the engine.
Both owners had been using the mowers all the time and did not realize they had been running on one cylinder.
These pistons would move up & down as the engine was cranked due to nothing more then crankcase pressures.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
I inherited two B & S V twins with the stock of used bits from Bert when I bought the business, marked "OK needs new rod"
After pulling them down I could not believe what I saw.
Both had dropped the cap off the end of one con rod and the cap was sitting happily in the bottom of the engine.
Both owners had been using the mowers all the time and did not realize they had been running on one cylinder.
These pistons would move up & down as the engine was cranked due to nothing more then crankcase pressures.
Click to expand...
They were saying I wonder why this thing is low on power :confused2:
 
I have found that the valves were way too tight I loosened them and it runs great !!im now trying to find out how to adjust them the right way as the previous owner must of done this !!Anyone that can tell me how to adjust them right??Thanx Guys for all your help!!(26hp intec twin cyl)
 
This is fight material.
B & S tell you to do each cylinder on the firing stroke 1/4" past TDC

Others will do the inlet when the exhaust closes and the exhaust when the inlet just closes
 
With engine cold on compression stroke get piston to top dead center then turn right 1/4 inch so you get past compression release.

loosen the jam nut take a feeler gage on the intake .003 to .005 inch exhaust .005 to .007 inch.
put feeler gage between rocker and top of valve tighten nut till you feel resistance but can steel slide gage back and forth tighten nut and jam nut and re check, I usually go with .004 on intake and .006 on exhaust.

once you get one cylinder finished do the same on other cylinder.
it kinda takes a good touch to get right so don't get discouraged if you need to adjust several times.

good luck :thumbsup:
 
Inlet sucks so it opens as the piston is descending.
Exhaust blows so it opens as the piston is ascending.
Usual practice is to put the hotter port ( exhaust ) at the top when it gets the cooling air first.
Always worth while to check with a soft rod poked down the plug hole.

After adjustment turn the engine a few times by hand to check the inlet opens slightly just before TDC.
This is to release the compression for starting.
If it does not do this tighten the valve lash a little more till it does.
 
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