LGT, 2654, Kohler, Electrical Issues, PTO Switch, Fuse melting,

[Cool-Ace]

Hi to all the mower Mec's, I have a Husqvarna LGT2654 that the PTO switch keeps going bad. I think I have replaced it 3 times and now need another. I am not sure why it is going bad but you know the fuse that is on the wiring harness it had a 30 or 35 in it when it went out the 1st time so I reduced it to a 25 then this last time to a 20 but the fuse still melts down. It has me wondering if the PTO it self might be making it get hot because it is bad? I can replace the switch and fuse and runs fine for a while before going out. If anyone has any idea what the main problem might be please let me know. Wires on PTO are good and as best I can tell the PTO is OK but I could be wrong.

 

[ILENGINE]

Melting fuse to me would indicate a bad connection in that area. Resistance causes heat. But you could also unplug the pto clutch and do a resistance reading between the two wires. Normal would be 2.3-3.3 ohms give or take a small amount.

 

[Cool-Ace]

Melting fuse to me would indicate a bad connection in that area. Resistance causes heat. But you could also unplug the pto clutch and do a resistance reading between the two wires. Normal would be 2.3-3.3 ohms give or take a small amount.

Thank you I will check it tomorrow. I seen a video on YouTube sometime back when the 1st switch went bad. I also remember another video that showed how to do just what you said. Up until now I thought is was OK but after what your telling me that sounds like my problem. I reveille my finds tomorrow afternoon.

 

[ILENGINE]

Thank you I will check it tomorrow. I seen a video on YouTube sometime back when the 1st switch went bad. I also remember another video that showed how to do just what you said. Up until now I thought is was OK but after what your telling me that sounds like my problem. I reveille my finds tomorrow afternoon.

Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.

 

[StarTech]

And just think it all could be prevented if the OEMs would install an extra 7.5 fuse and holder but that is a few pennies too much. I am surprised that there is not more PTO switches melted down considering they are only rated for 10 amps.max.

Here I usually add a 7.5 fuse and holder on clutch replacements.Yes it is a few dollars more but considering the price different between an OEM and after market clutch it is nil.

 

[Cool-Ace]

Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.

I can't help but laugh, but is nice to know I am not the only person that hate's the JD mower or their problems. We have one a 42 inch was my mother in-law's. can't keep a belt on it or the cable stretches out and needs to be replaced and if that is not the only problem then it is the blade brakes wear out so fast. btw not got out yet to check the oms on the pto clutch. will do that soon

 

[Cool-Ace]

And just think it all could be prevented if the OEMs would install an extra 7.5 fuse and holder but that is a few pennies too much. I am surprised that there is not more PTO switches melted down considering they are only rated for 10 amps.max.

Here I usually add a 7.5 fuse and holder on clutch replacements.Yes it is a few dollars more but considering the price different between an OEM and after market clutch it is nil.

I like your thinking I am going to order one this afternoon from Ebay. I got to get a few things from there anyway. Thank you.

 

[Cool-Ace]

Had one in the shop last year that didn't blow the 20 amp fuse but melted the pto switch. The clutch tested at .5 ohms which is a draw of 24 amps. Maybe with some other brands also but it always seems like the JD mowers if the clutch goes bad it also takes out the pto switch.

Here is example of a extreme case were a bad pto clutch lead to me wanting to choke the engineer. Pto clutch went bad and cooked the pto switch. But in this case when it went it blew the fuse on the printed circuit board module on the mower. And on some JD mowers the key switch is part of the interloc module board. Now get this the two fuses on the circuit board had been soldered into there fuse holders, and appeared to be that way from the factory. So I had to replace the pto clutch, pto switch, interloc board and the key switch since the new setup has a separate key switch from the board.

I got around to checking the ohms, meter not in front of me but I think it had 5.2 showing. From what I have been told ( maybe by you ) that it means bad pto if it is over 2.5 plus it took out the fuse and switch this time the fuse holder was even to hot so have to get another of those. This was a nice mower at 800 but I think everything that could go wrong has I soon had replace the tie rods and then dang barring's in front wheel went out even cut the center out of the rim. I also had to buy new tires one get eat up when it broke. Oh then I found too that a valve cover was leaking oil so replaced the gasket, Not just once but it was still leaking thought I did something wrong. Well after another new gasket and a new valve cover it is fixed. I also had to replace blades then broke the ears or tabs of one of the mandrels. I had to buy me a back up mower this is a 4000 Craftsmen 26 B&S 54 $200 and have had to use it most all summer and not an issue with it yet. I wish I could find a few more just like it

 

[ILENGINE]

5.2 ohms would create a low amp draw when compared to normal. Wouldn't take out the switch or fuse but could cause engagement issues. Could also be a possibility that it shorts out when hot also.

most clutches range in the 2.5-3.5 range where others will specify 2.3-3.3.

 

[Cool-Ace]

5.2 ohms would create a low amp draw when compared to normal. Wouldn't take out the switch or fuse but could cause engagement issues. Could also be a possibility that it shorts out when hot also.

most clutches range in the 2.5-3.5 range where others will specify 2.3-3.3.

Let me some up. Just want to get you the right info. this is now the 3rd time that both the switch and fuse went out at the same time. So do you think the Clutch is the problem or something else going on? I hate to buy the clutch if it is not bad. You think I might have a short somewhere if not the clutch?