Gas tank is leaking right at the gas line connection. I have replaced the grommet four times using grommets from different suppliers (they all look the same) but still get a steady drip. I even tried using a bolt-on wheel valve stem with the valve removed. That works better, but I still have a little seepage. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Post up a picture of the tank.
I've had same issues with some of those plastic tanks.
One size does not fit all in this case.
I can get them sealed if I take the tank off and instead of using gas I use water after I have done the seal job or at first just use soapy water like when looking for a tire leak.
To test with the tank when removed from the equipment, I block the fuel line add little bit of water then just just insert a loose 1/4 fuel hose into the gas tank fill hole and seal around the hose with rag or paper towel and blow into the hose. do not try to use air pressure from a pump or otherwise on a plastic tank. You can blow 1-2 lbs of pressure is all that's needed. I've even tried sealing the gas cap with plastic bag and using a Mity vac air pump into the outlet and it get's too much pressure too fast.
Make sure the gas cap is vented or you will never get a good permanent final seal.
If you find a cracked tank look on-line for how to plastic weld. I've been plastic welding tanks for few years with good results. Try to get the patch material from somewhere on the tank that you are welding. Not all plastics are the same. I've had good results using plastic milk containers as a additive when welding. I usually use 40 watt soldering irons with a flat tip and make a shallow groove first to add/melt the filler into. (like when welding/filling a crack in metal)
I've had same issues with some of those plastic tanks.
One size does not fit all in this case.
I can get them sealed if I take the tank off and instead of using gas I use water after I have done the seal job or at first just use soapy water like when looking for a tire leak.
To test with the tank when removed from the equipment, I block the fuel line add little bit of water then just just insert a loose 1/4 fuel hose into the gas tank fill hole and seal around the hose with rag or paper towel and blow into the hose. do not try to use air pressure from a pump or otherwise on a plastic tank. You can blow 1-2 lbs of pressure is all that's needed. I've even tried sealing the gas cap with plastic bag and using a Mity vac air pump into the outlet and it get's too much pressure too fast.
Make sure the gas cap is vented or you will never get a good permanent final seal.
If you find a cracked tank look on-line for how to plastic weld. I've been plastic welding tanks for few years with good results. Try to get the patch material from somewhere on the tank that you are welding. Not all plastics are the same. I've had good results using plastic milk containers as a additive when welding. I usually use 40 watt soldering irons with a flat tip and make a shallow groove first to add/melt the filler into. (like when welding/filling a crack in metal)
Thanks for the reply.
I did a pretty thorough inspection of the tank the last time I had it off and could find no evidence of a crack anywhere. It seems that the grommets I've tried are just a hair too small in diameter. The fit is just not snug enough to the tank opening, even with the gas line nipple installed.
I did a pretty thorough inspection of the tank the last time I had it off and could find no evidence of a crack anywhere. It seems that the grommets I've tried are just a hair too small in diameter. The fit is just not snug enough to the tank opening, even with the gas line nipple installed.
Something that should be simple really being a pain mainly due to replacements not being correct size.
You say: The fit is just not snug enough to the tank opening, even with the gas line nipple installed.
I've seen that on some plastic tanks, especially on the large rear tanks on lawn tractors.
Really aggravating, because the replacement grommets just will not seal good when the OEM gas line nipple is installed.
At times I've installed a slightly large push in nipple so as to force the grommet out larger and get a better seal. I usually used brass nipple and then sometimes have to use 1/4 inch plumbing fitting to get a 90 or a 1/4 inch pipe collar and another nipple to get to the gas line connection.
Main thing is I do testing BEFORE re-installing the tank. Appears that wrong size metric is being used as the replacement for the OEM???????????
I've felt your pain.