Late 1970's RER Drive Disc Removal

[Captain Slow]

Hi folks, I'm in the process of replacing the tired and smokey B&S on my late 70's Rear Engine Rider. I haven't bought the new engine yet but I'm satisfied with the responses to another post on this site that I should have no trouble getting one that will bolt right up. I removed the old engine this evening and have it completely off of the mower now. I'm having trouble removing the aluminum (?) drive disk from the old engine's crankshaft. The disk is held keyed onto the shaft and held with 2 set screws which I have removed. I've sprayed it down with some penetrating oil for the time being and have GENTLY tapped it a bit with a rubber mallet but it seems too delicate to really whack. I wanted to ask if there is any trick to getting this piece off the old crankshaft and onto the new engine (maybe a little heat from a torch would help?). Thanks



Cap'n can't mow at the moment.

 

[Captn Cliffy]

I have a Series 3 RER where I replaced the engine a few years ago. The drive disk assembly is actually three pieces: a hub (which slides on the PTO side of the engine shaft - this is where you loosen the two allen screws); a pulley for the blade drive belt; and the drive disk. The aluminum disk screws onto the hub. Tap one of the reinforcing splines on the engine side of the disk in a counterclockwise direction, and the disk will screw off. You can then use a 2 or 3 jaw puller or bearing separator to remove the hub from the engine shaft. Snapper says to check the disk plate for flatness with a straight edge - if there is more than .020" difference, the disk should be replaced. For the driven disk (rubber lined disk on the chain case) to work properly, the distance from the bottom of the main case (the part of the mower frame the engine mounts to - NOT the engine) to the face of the drive disk should be 3-3/4". Good luck. FYI: I don't know if you still can since B&S bought out Snapper, but you use to be able to download owner's manuals, service manuals, and parts lists from the Snapper website.

 

[Captn Cliffy]

I just re-read your post, and want to add when you go to purchase a replacement engine, make sure the PTO side of the engine crankshaft is the same as the old engine (diameter, length, and keyway).

 

[Fish]

One can assume that his mower is not a Snapper, but maybe a Roof or Ariens, so replacing that plate might not be that easy of
a thing, especially if it is a Roof!!!

If you can see the crank through the plate, see if the hole in the bottom of the crank is threaded, and if so, screw in a long
bolt, and lift up on the plate, so you are holding the engine off of the ground, and have someone whack the bolt with a hammer,
that should jar it loose, thread the bolt in a good way to protect the threads, so you can unscrew the bolt when the plate is loose.

 

[Fish]

Oh, I see the category is in the Snapper forum, well no harm, same advice......

 

[Captn Cliffy]

Good advice, Fish! I assumed it was a Snapper RER, and we all know what happens when you assume something.

 

[Fish]

No, it was at the top of the forum menu when I clicked on it, and once you do that it doesn't say which brand group it was, so I as guessing from how he described what he had, that it wasn't a Snapper.